thesoundmaster Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Alright, I searched the forum, and I can't find anything, hopefully someone can help. When i bought my Pathy, 93 SE, the tach would sometimes stop working while driving, but come back on. When it did this it was few and far between. Lately it's been doing it a lot, and when it does, my turn signals don't work, and my power windows would stop working. Today I went to roll down the passenger window, and it wouldn't roll down from either drivers side switch or pass. side switch. The only window that will roll down is the driver window. Question is, where can I find any fuses or relay locations for the windows, and are they somehow connected to the tach issue? Also, my blower for my A/C stopped working intermittantly and comes back when it feels like it so I'm stuck driving a hot vehicle for now Appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 (edited) Though I think your problems are seperate, you may have a power or ground issue. First, there are two points of ground at each A-pillar, near the kick panel. You should be able to access it by removing the sill cover, then the kickpanel. You should be able to identify it as it should be a black wire going into a eyelet terminal, bolted to the body. Make sure they are clean and snug. The other is a power issue. I looked at the power supply routing diagram in a 94 manual(oldest I have availible), and the only thing they share, is the fuse block itself. Now, power is supplied to the fuse panel by means of the Accessroy relay, the Ignition relay, and the window are powered by the Ignition 2 relay(it gets its signal from the Ignition relay. I would go look for loose or corroded connections at those points. Oh, and you may want to download a manual for your year to help you along. Here is how I did it.... Edited September 11, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesoundmaster Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 Awesome! Thank you! I figured the window thing out, it's one of those quirky things that come with every vehicle, turns out somehow I had bumped my window lock, which for some reason also locks the drivers side controls on the other windows. Was able to get my passenger window down. The rear windows won't go down on the drivers controls, no big deal on that. Tach issue I'll try and trace the short to ground issue tomorrow! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 Tacometer failures are very common around here. You can pull the cluster, then loosen and retighten the small brass screws on the printed circuit board. This helps in some cases, but, you may need a new one. As far a your windows, if the rear windows still wont drop, you may have a manster switch failing. YOu can always check for power at the motors and rear switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 I'm not sure about the cluster issues in the 93. The round dash trucks are a bugger! I know from personal experience. I luckily found a good one in a junkyard rig. Your master switch may be bad as already suggested. Can you roll the rear windows down with their own independent switches and then roll them up from the master switch? When I got my truck, I could roll the passenger window down with the master switch, but not up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesoundmaster Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 Your master switch may be bad as already suggested. Can you roll the rear windows down with their own independent switches and then roll them up from the master switch? When I got my truck, I could roll the passenger window down with the master switch, but not up. The independent switches on the rear windows work, it's the master that doesn't. Also my power locks don't work, but I've read and heard its a common issue with the switch on it, so I'm not too worried Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luchios Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 My spedometer works intermitently as well as the odometer, and the system says my doors are ajar when they are clearly not (Kind of an anoyance because I have a remote starter and the system won't engage until doors are shut). The other day I swapped out the whole combination meter system with one I got at a junk yard, and the exact same problems occured. My drivers side control to roll up the rear windows also does not work. I'm wondering if these issues are possibly linked and I need to rewire the whole wiring harness to the combination meter? Some odd side effects on these matters: when I take a left turn, my door ajar light turns off; the engine check light will sometimes come on; when I smack the dash, the spedometer will start working and the engine check light will turn off. Any possible alternatives to rewiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 For your door ajar problem the issue is in the rear hatch. you need to space out the catch at the bottom with some washers. common problem but easily fixed. I would think that if your CEL comes on it will store a code in the ecu. In the garage section there is a how to on how to check them. Even if the light is off it will remember the codes. I'm sure it'll help you diagnose the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luchios Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 For your door ajar problem the issue is in the rear hatch. you need to space out the catch at the bottom with some washers. common problem but easily fixed. I would think that if your CEL comes on it will store a code in the ecu. In the garage section there is a how to on how to check them. Even if the light is off it will remember the codes. I'm sure it'll help you diagnose the issue. thanks for your advice, I'm going to check the ecu in the next couple of days. Do you think that the spedometer and the door ajar problems could be linked? You said that it was a 'common problem' for the door ajar, do you know if it is a problem with the hatch? or possibly the wiring in the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 thanks for your advice, I'm going to check the ecu in the next couple of days. Do you think that the spedometer and the door ajar problems could be linked? You said that it was a 'common problem' for the door ajar, do you know if it is a problem with the hatch? or possibly the wiring in the front? For the door ajar it is common for the rear hatch latch to not be pushing hard enough to turn the light off. The speedo and CEL coming on sounds like the speed sensor connection could be loose. It is on the side of the transfercase underneath the truck. Passenger side IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luchios Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 For the door ajar it is common for the rear hatch latch to not be pushing hard enough to turn the light off. The speedo and CEL coming on sounds like the speed sensor connection could be loose. It is on the side of the transfercase underneath the truck. Passenger side IIRC. I think I got the door ajar problem, thanks so much, I would have ripped apart the whole circuitry to try and figure this out lol. And for some reason, I had swapped out my combination meter back to the original and everything seems to be working for now... I think it may have possibly been dirty connectors causing closed circuits to become open and vice versa? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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