hpm123 Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 (edited) Good evening folks - have an issue on my 89 SE 4x4 auto-transmission not starting. Engage the ignition switch and get nothing in way of engine crank. The only click I hear when I bump the ignition switch is the "accessories' relay which is the relay on the left located just above the fuse block inside the drivers side cabin area. I can't hear any clicking coming from the solenoid, or "magnetic switch" as it's called in the shop manual. Battery checks good on a load test done by Advance. I can hear the fuel pump relay kick in and pressurize the fuel line and then drop out once pressurized. Lights and other accessories work when switching to "on" on the ignition switch. Pulled all the ignition related fuses in the fuse block and ohm'd all these and all checked good. Thinking the starter is bad, I pulled it out and have it on my workbench. I did the continuity tests on the mag switch as called out in the FSM, and these 2 tests test good. I put the battery on the workbench as well and hooked up the +/- on the battery to the 2 threaded posts on the solenoid using my jumper cables. I was thinking this should spin the starter pinion gear but I get nothing on this test. No click - nothing. Is this a correct way of bench-testing a starter? I was thinking I should get something when connecting the starter solenoid connections to the battery posts, but get nothing. Does this test indicate a defective starter? Much obliged for any assistance - Edited July 25, 2010 by hpm123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 there should be an additional wire to the starter, a smaller positive to the 'start switch' http://www.misterfixit.com/starttst.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 25, 2010 Share Posted July 25, 2010 positive terminal to the post on the starter...clamp onto the housing of the starter with the - then you need a 12V signal ot the solenoid to turn it...i used a piece of wire from the + terminal to touch the + wire on the solenoid plug (i know older starter solinoids had 1 post but the newer had 2... be weary b/c i just had mine laying on the ground and it turned a flip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpm123 Posted July 26, 2010 Author Share Posted July 26, 2010 Thanks gentlemen for the followup. Didn't get a chance to work on today but appreciate the info. Will do a followup on my end once I get back into this...thanks - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpm123 Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Tested as noted above and the starter unit itself spins, but when I apply the 12v to the solenoid, nothing. I believe I'm doing this test correct: - Starter itself clamped onto the workbench vise. - Ground on battery clamped to base of vise (good continuity reading from casing of starter to vise base and batt gnd) - "+" of battery going to "+" post on solenoid (that heavy gauge wire that connects from the other post on the solenoid into the starter body is disconnected and when spanning this wire to the "+" post on the solenoid, the starter spins. - Reconnect heavy gauge wire going to starter onto the bottom post of the solenoid - I clipped the ground control wire on the solenoid to vise ground (leaving everything else noted above still connected) - Touch the solenoid control hot wire to the positive post on the battery and get no click and no starter spin. Is this a defective solenoid? All the continuity tests as called out in the shop manual for the solenoid all test ok. Would like to run this past you guys before shelling out beans for a new starter - much obliged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 Sounds like a bendix problem. If the bendix won't come out when you hit that solenoid, try spraying some penetrating fluid in there to break it free. Let it soak, and try again. If I am understanding correctly what you are saying, and that does not work, replace the starter. AZ has lifetime warranty units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 I was having problems with the starter in my sentra just clicking, so I took the starter out and took the solenoid off of it and cleaned the plunger thing inside and all the contacts and put it back in the car and now it is working fine, haven't had any issues since I did that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpm123 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 Thanks fellas - I'll try taking the solenoid off and giving it a good cleaning. Just spoke to the local Nissan shop and $374 for a new starter. Ouch. Tried there as was reading where the local parts store were serving up new defectives and don't particularly want to get in there 2 or 3 times to change that sucker before getting a good unit. But if cleaning the solenoid doesn't fix it, that may be my only choice. That or a salvage yard. Then you're just rolling the dice again on an aged starter - but thanks gentlemen for the assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 if you have to get a new starter I would order one from an online dealer, will be cheaper, just looked one up online $291 delivered. When I had problems with the starter in my D21 I went thru 2 local rebuilds within a few weeks before I bought one from beck arnley and that one lasted years, was still working when I got rid of the truck. may be something else to look into as I'm sure a beck arnley starter will be less than OEM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpm123 Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 well I appreciate everyone's assistance on this. Wound up getting a Beck-Arnley starter from Advanced Auto Parts for $202. They had several other brands to pick up for about half what the B-A cost, but went w/ the Beck-Arnley on this replacement. Installed this afternoon and the ole boys back on the mend. Appreciate the assistance on this. Off topic, but just where exactly is the fuseable link located. Is that somewhere on that bulk of different connectors right at the end of the pos battery wire where it connects onto the pos battery post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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