Slashjt Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 I took the photo I promised of the Rocksliders mount. I'ts really simple, just a pipe inside another pipe, with a hole for a nut and a bolt Just weld a piece of pipe to the frame, put the rocksliders inside de pipe, make the hole right through and mount. You need 3 helping hands. 2 holding the rocksliders to level it 1 welding. It should look like this and you'll have REMOVABLE rocksliders. Important: just make ONE hole per mount, using 1 bolt and nut. If you use 2 holes, nuts, and bolts I will be stronger BUT if someone has to winch you sideways (for example) and grabs to your rocksliders, the pipe might bend, wrecking the RS. With one nut, the nut will probably break... and it's way cheaper replacing a bolt than the whole RS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Nice work, do you really think these sliders will bend? maybe if your really stuck but... 3/16 or 1/4 wall DOM is pretty stong(aussuming those are the trail gear sliders) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slashjt Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Nice work, do you really think these sliders will bend? maybe if your really stuck but... 3/16 or 1/4 wall DOM is pretty stong(aussuming those are the trail gear sliders) If you're really stuck, the sliders could bend, the pipe might suck in, leaving a dent. It's cheaper to change a bolt. These are home made sliders, with strong pipes. Very cheap to make too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Judging by the pics I would think that they would rip off at the frame before bending. I like the idea of them being removable, but I would have welded the frame side tubes to some plate, gusset the tube to the plate and then weld the plate to the frame. This is how I wanted to make mine removable, but I like the tube mounts better now that I have seen it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slashjt Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 Judging by the pics I would think that they would rip off at the frame before bending. I like the idea of them being removable, but I would have welded the frame side tubes to some plate, gusset the tube to the plate and then weld the plate to the frame. This is how I wanted to make mine removable, but I like the tube mounts better now that I have seen it done. That's a good idea, but you could make the gusset shorter, to grab only the tube that's welded to the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 All these idea's are making my head hurt...I want some. Good job dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I would rather have a slider bend than a slider fly across the area into the head of a bystander because it snapped a bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 The same concept goes for a winch cable! People always look at me funny when I put a jacket or something over the line while it is under pressure...little do they know it could very well be the one thing that saves them a lot of pain!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 The same concept goes for a winch cable! People always look at me funny when I put a jacket or something over the line while it is under pressure...little do they know it could very well be the one thing that saves them a lot of pain!! I will never use a winch w/o synthetic line.....200-300 bucks to save a life? Hell yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 I will never use a winch w/o synthetic line.....200-300 bucks to save a life? Hell yes. This is not 100% true. less recoil yes...................... BUT I wheel alot.. i mean ALOT. We pull winch cable every time out. I have NEVER seen a steel cable break on a vehicle winch (i have seen cable break though). I have seen multiple synthetic lines break, and no.. not from abrasion. if the line is dry, there is very little re-coil, if it is wet, there is much more recoil. and only 200 bucks for new synthetic line? where do you buy yours.. hell, i know the masterpull guy and i can't get a deal like that. I get new cable FREE. i just wait till somebody pulls their new calbe off the drum to replace it with synthetic, and they will GIVE it to you. Ill keep my old trusty cable, that looks like @!*% and will still suspend my entire vehicle. you can keep your sketchy synthetic line! Disclaimer : it is my understanding that they hold up well in dry environments, such as utah, or arizona.. the WET coast.. not so mcuh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerstudd5 Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 What would the purpose of removable sliders be, just out of curiosity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slashjt Posted June 30, 2010 Author Share Posted June 30, 2010 What would the purpose of removable sliders be, just out of curiosity? Easier to repair, re-paint, etc in case of damage. Easy to remove in case of selling the truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Thats a cool Idea and all, but I'm welding my sliders on tomorrow, and if they ever need to be replaced or removed....I'll just pull out the sawzall and grinder I do need to learn how to weld upside down in one day though...that will be fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 1, 2010 Share Posted July 1, 2010 Thats a cool Idea and all, but I'm welding my sliders on tomorrow, and if they ever need to be replaced or removed....I'll just pull out the sawzall and grinder I do need to learn how to weld upside down in one day though...that will be fun! Mine are going on soon, if they ever need to come off I'll do the same. when they go back on I may or may not design a way for them to be multi mountable; low- step position high- slider position it would be 2 female tubes one atop the other that slide over the smaller tube I left on the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Incase all are interested Here's the print I drew up for when I mount Mine. I cut the pipes and gussets @ 94* angle to give me a little more clearance @ the pinch seam on the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 Why not cut or hammer the pinch seam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 In reference to the winch cable first: Have had both, synthetic and standard steel cable. Have broken both, but I have to be honest, the synthetic broke under LESS pressure than the steel cable. The cable ONLY broke when it was in such a bind, (and the winch was a PTO setup on a deace and a half) that it had to. The truck we were trying to pull out, ended up staying where it sat for several months, buried...until it dried out enough to go and dig it out. I say all this because my current winch, (sitting in my car port) has steel line...because I removed the synthetic and replaced it...Not saying I dont like the pretty blue and purple and even yellow...colors of line, I am saying that in my experience, I have had less failures with standard steel. Only ran synthetic one time, and it broke...never again. Form your own opinion. Now onto the rock sliders... My truck apparantly had step bars at one time. The bars are gone but the frame mounts are still there. I am thinking about using these to have "Removeable sliders." Not 100% sure though, I know if I did the pipe weld, it would be strong as an ox, but the 1/4 plate mounts look pretty solid... Going to score me some smaller tubing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 (edited) Why not cut or hammer the pinch seam? Because the way I have it lined up, the inner rail (not the legs) run the whole length under the seam. Edited July 2, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 That makes sense. I guess they would be stronger with shorter legs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 My sliders have 9.5" legs on 5"x1/4" plates and will be getting 1/4" plate gussets on the top of each leg...My legs just go straight out bc I have a 3" body lift and mine are doubling as steps for the family. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 15, 2010 Share Posted July 15, 2010 My sliders are on. pics coming soon. (figured I'd keep it all in one place instead of starting new) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slashjt Posted July 16, 2010 Author Share Posted July 16, 2010 My sliders are on. pics coming soon. (figured I'd keep it all in one place instead of starting new) Nice and good thinking. That keeps the forum clean I'll be waiting for the pics!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted July 16, 2010 Share Posted July 16, 2010 (edited) Here they are! Out as far as the fenders which makes them aprox 2" wider than the door frame I tried to match the lower angle of the rocker and give standing room for roof acess. still gettin used to em, step over em vs step on em gettin in. A 1" BL is is the future so I am sure they will work out even better then. More here; photobucket.com/albums/y4/ghj018/MY1PATH/Sliders/ Edited July 16, 2010 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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