And The Journey Begins...!

[CYRUS]

Hello Everyone!

 

So, today I got my 88 2-door back from my mate who was working on some suspension issues and now it's time for me to do the rest myself, with your help of course.

 

I will be asking a tonne of questions and I realise that a lot of them will be redundant and silly, but I appreciate all the help you provide in advance.

 

Problems fixed to date:

Rear suspension and springs

Wheel caps and full size spare rim

 

 

Things to be done:

Replace rusted out panel below back seats

Left Front indicators

Hydraulic lifting thingys to keep back door up

Full seat-belts for rear seats

Left rear quarter panel body repair

Fender flares

Front bumper repair

Find replacement side-steps or alternatives

 

 

I shall post pictures up and start using the search function now

 

Thanks

 

Cyrus

[CYRUS]

I went to the junkyard today, where I picked up some wheel caps and a full size spare rim

 

I saw a 4-door 1991 Pathfinder there and I plan to go back tomorrow and see if I can salvage anything else.

 

Question: Will the roof rack off a 91 work for an 88? and will the hyraulic things that keep the tailgate up be interchangeable?

[nunya]

theres a thread about the "correct" way to mount the roof rack but yes to both working

[jj big shoe]

Does your floor look something like this?

I cut out all the rusty stuff and got a big sheet of 22ga sheet metal to patch it up. I didn't have a welder at the time so I used RTV silicone and rivets. First, measure where the seat brackets and seat belt mounts need to be when you reinstall them then cut out all the rust. Don't leave any or it'll creep back on you. Be sure to look under the truck to make sure you won't be hacking thru a bracket or something (driveshaft hoop mounts, fuel and brake lines, etc.). Spray the edges with a rust inhibitor and spray paint then get a sheet big enough to cover up the hole and overlap the good metal and inch or two. Form the sheet to the original contour (or close enough so your seats will sit correctly) and drill holes for the rivets.

I used about 150 rivets for mine. This is a shot while in the cargo area looking forward. I overlapped up to the brace in the top of the pic and just below where the cargo floor starts to slope down. Secure the sheet with rivets then fill the gaps inside and underneath with RTV so no dirt or water can collect between the sheet and body. If your is like mine was, you'll have rust in the wheel arches and other spots where you can't easilly form the metal. For those areas, use fiberglass patches.

If you look above the brace, you'll see more rust holes. Be sure to pull all the carpet out and fix them all. Under the driver's right foot is a pretty common spot as well.

Sorry, can't find pics of the finished work. Just think Michelangelo meets Chip Foose with a touch of Jessie James.

I haven't remounted the seat belts yet but when I do, I'll prolly use another large, thick sheet of metal to act as a washer under the new metal to be sure the belts won't pull thru in an accident.

Edited April 23, 2010 by jj big shoe

[GrimGreg]

Mine was about that bad, I also sheeted over it, but my whole plan was to remove the rear seats anyway, so I didn't bother replacing the mounts for the seats or the belts. I used sheet metal screws to fasten mine, then glassed over the entire area on the inside and sprayed about 2 cans of undercoating on the bottom.

Edited April 23, 2010 by GrimGreg

[CYRUS]

Does your floor look something like this?

I cut out all the rusty stuff and got a big sheet of 22ga sheet metal to patch it up. I didn't have a welder at the time so I used RTV silicone and rivets. First, measure where the seat brackets and seat belt mounts need to be when you reinstall them then cut out all the rust. Don't leave any or it'll creep back on you. Be sure to look under the truck to make sure you won't be hacking thru a bracket or something (driveshaft hoop mounts, fuel and brake lines, etc.). Spray the edges with a rust inhibitor and spray paint then get a sheet big enough to cover up the hole and overlap the good metal and inch or two. Form the sheet to the original contour (or close enough so your seats will sit correctly) and drill holes for the rivets.

I used about 150 rivets for mine. This is a shot while in the cargo area looking forward. I overlapped up to the brace in the top of the pic and just below where the cargo floor starts to slope down. Secure the sheet with rivets then fill the gaps inside and underneath with RTV so no dirt or water can collect between the sheet and body. If your is like mine was, you'll have rust in the wheel arches and other spots where you can't easilly form the metal. For those areas, use fiberglass patches.

If you look above the brace, you'll see more rust holes. Be sure to pull all the carpet out and fix them all. Under the driver's right foot is a pretty common spot as well.

Sorry, can't find pics of the finished work. Just think Michelangelo meets Chip Foose with a touch of Jessie James.

I haven't remounted the seat belts yet but when I do, I'll prolly use another large, thick sheet of metal to act as a washer under the new metal to be sure the belts won't pull thru in an accident.

 

thanks for such a detailed reply.

 

I am utterly useless with fixing such a huge problem so i'm having help and hopefully learning some things along the way. Mine is rusted at basically the same places.

 

will the fibreglass patches double as a rust inhibitor? if not, what do you recommend as a good product for that. I'd like to get some preventative measures in place to minimise any future rusting

[CYRUS]

Mine was about that bad, I also sheeted over it, but my whole plan was to remove the rear seats anyway, so I didn't bother replacing the mounts for the seats or the belts. I used sheet metal screws to fasten mine, then glassed over the entire area on the inside and sprayed about 2 cans of undercoating on the bottom.

 

so it seems like that spot is prone to rusting on a lot of Pathfinders from that era. I was thinking that I was the unlucky one for a moment.

[beavis0076]

for the struts that hold up the hatch, i just bend mine a tiny bit when they are fully open, the added friction of the slightly bent tube makes them like new. Ive never had to buy a set on any car once i figured that trick out.

[CYRUS]

for the struts that hold up the hatch, i just bend mine a tiny bit when they are fully open, the added friction of the slightly bent tube makes them like new. Ive never had to buy a set on any car once i figured that trick out.

 

struts is a better word than ''thingys'' - thanks!

 

do you bend them with any tools or just with your brute strength?

[beavis0076]

yea, i gave mine a gentle whack with the back side of my ax... but ive done it with gentle strength too. hahahaha just bend them a tiny bit..

[CYRUS]

yea, i gave mine a gentle whack with the back side of my ax... but ive done it with gentle strength too. hahahaha just bend them a tiny bit..

 

any location in particular? such as the middle or lower, etc?

[beavis0076]

middle.

[JamesRich]

for the struts that hold up the hatch, i just bend mine a tiny bit when they are fully open, the added friction of the slightly bent tube makes them like new. Ive never had to buy a set on any car once i figured that trick out.

Are you bending the tube or the rod? I tried bending mine and it didn't help. My rear hatch stays up it's my glass that doesn't. I have a mystery though. I found a 94 in a pick-a-part that the struts for the glass were really strong. I purchased them and when I got home and put them on my 87 they were just as week as mine. The 87 glass wouldn't be heavier?

James

[GrimGreg]

so it seems like that spot is prone to rusting on a lot of Pathfinders from that era. I was thinking that I was the unlucky one for a moment.

Yep, all years of the WD21 like to rust in the same places on the body. Luckily only newer models seem to rust badly on the frame.

[87BeachCruiser]

Rockauto was having a blowout sale on the hatch lifts this week, more than half off, but I do like the 'whack it with an axe' idea.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1211768&m=wc&l=en&html=true

[beavis0076]

Are you bending the tube or the rod? I tried bending mine and it didn't help. My rear hatch stays up it's my glass that doesn't. I have a mystery though. I found a 94 in a pick-a-part that the struts for the glass were really strong. I purchased them and when I got home and put them on my 87 they were just as week as mine. The 87 glass wouldn't be heavier?

James

 

I bend the rod.... it has always worked for me, although some people have pinched the tube with vice-grips to make more pressure in them. as far as the struts working then not.. was the temp very diff outside? i could see that affecting them and making them stiff, then not.

Edited April 24, 2010 by beavis0076

[jj big shoe]

Are you bending the tube or the rod? I tried bending mine and it didn't help. My rear hatch stays up it's my glass that doesn't. I have a mystery though. I found a 94 in a pick-a-part that the struts for the glass were really strong. I purchased them and when I got home and put them on my 87 they were just as week as mine. The 87 glass wouldn't be heavier?

James

The rear glass on the 87-89 is bullet-proof and therefore heavier. One more reason 2-doors ROCK!

[jj big shoe]

will the fibreglass patches double as a rust inhibitor?

Well, f'glass won't rust if that's what you mean. But any rust you f'glass over will still continue to grow to the good metal around it. That's why its important to cut all of it out that you can. The small remaining rust spots should be sprayed with an actual rust inhibitor and painted before you cover it up.