Lite Knocking Noise Coming From Motor

[Dasanii19]

After taking a 200 mile trip I pull into my drive way and put the truck in park when all the sudden I hear a very lite knocking noise. I pop the hood and sure enough the noise is coming from the motor, its not loud by any means but just a lite knocking noise. I shut the truck off for about 10 minutes and then start it back up but the noise went away.. My wife took the truck this morning and said she has heard nothing.

 

What are all he possibilities this noise could be? Why would it knock and then stop like that? I put loctite on all the butterfly screws last weekend so I dont think one could have fallen out. This sound is making me a bit nervous about the motor blowing..

 

Thoughts??

[tekazgtr1984]

Lifter tick? More common an issue on the VG but also known to happen on VQ engines.

[180sx]

Lifter tick? More common an issue on the VG but also known to happen on VQ engines.

 

Thats what I was going to say. When was the last time you changed your oil?

[Dasanii19]

Thats what I was going to say. When was the last time you changed your oil?

 

I changed it twice within 8 days. When I bought it (10 days ago), it was 3 qts. low and black...

Edited February 14, 2010 by Dasanii19

[fishinpathy]

I often wondered the same question about my 2003 if this came up, plan on keeping this one a while. My wifes older VQ never a problem with anything till sold. I owned an older 1997 isuzu rodeo from new and as the miles crept up the same thing happened knock and a tick (would tick always), seemed to be common on isuzus with engine tick and lifters. This happened even with scheduled maintenance, and some extra fluid/oil changes if the truck was run hard. I did the Seafoam and oil change trick and the engine ran great afterwards when sold 2 years later. I still have a 2002 rodeo just as abused as the first rodeo (comuter car/everything truck), and at 125,000mi the same thing and using the Seafoam worked the same. So far so good, 140,000mi and runs great no tick. These engines were the 3.2L Isuzu, my question is: On the VQ engine can you use this treatment?

[Dasanii19]

On my last oil change a few days ago, I added Patron plus formula 7. I know Petron is a very sticky/thick substance. I didn't hear this tick until I added this stuff, im wondering if this could be the issue? Maybe its so sticky that its hanging up a hydrolic lifter?

 

After work im going to pick up 4 qts of 5w30 max life high millage and 2 qts of 5w30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Im hoping the full synthetic will clean up that valve a bit and let things flow. Ill mix 4 qts of the conventional with 1 1/4 synthetic. I know synthetic can make leaky gaskets, but thats why im only going 1 1/4 mixture. I should have never used that additive...

Edited February 15, 2010 by Dasanii19

[stevebaz]

I run full synthetic in my 01.

I use mobile 1

I use this because when I bought my truck used with 30,000 miles on it the previous owner used regular oil and wasn't meticulus with oil changes. On the top of the engine is a timing control valve that gets hot and sticks with bad oil. It has a spool valve attached to a solonoid and redirects the oil for timing control, a gummy oil system sticks this valve and screws up the cam timing and may throw codes. The valve is very expensive and that thick additive you added is not in my opinion recomended. Your low oil issue and dirty oil you will need to flush out the oil system as best as you can. My first oil changes I used 5-w30 synthetic and changed it every 3,000 miles for the first couple of oil changes. Watch your oil consumption there is a problem in some pathfinders and the factory has changed the design of the valve covers to fix it. It may or may not be your model. Normal oil consumption for my truck is 1/2 quart in about 5,000 miles which is when I change my synthetic oil these days.

Steve

[Dasanii19]

I run full synthetic in my 01.

I use mobile 1

I use this because when I bought my truck used with 30,000 miles on it the previous owner used regular oil and wasn't meticulus with oil changes. On the top of the engine is a timing control valve that gets hot and sticks with bad oil. It has a spool valve attached to a solonoid and redirects the oil for timing control, a gummy oil system sticks this valve and screws up the cam timing and may throw codes. The valve is very expensive and that thick additive you added is not in my opinion recomended. Your low oil issue and dirty oil you will need to flush out the oil system as best as you can. My first oil changes I used 5-w30 synthetic and changed it every 3,000 miles for the first couple of oil changes. Watch your oil consumption there is a problem in some pathfinders and the factory has changed the design of the valve covers to fix it. It may or may not be your model. Normal oil consumption for my truck is 1/2 quart in about 5,000 miles which is when I change my synthetic oil these days.

Steve

 

I want to switch to full synthetic but I hear it may bring leaks because of having detergent in it. I was actually going to Walmart after work today to buy some mobil 1, do you buy the SUV kind? I notice they have a few to choose from. What kind of oil filter do you use? I bought a $13 Mobil 1 filter on the last change.

 

Also, I would like to run synthetic in my tranny as well, do you have a recommendation? I put Super Tech in it about a week ago (took three drain and fills)

Edited March 3, 2010 by Dasanii19

[stevebaz]

I just use the standard 10w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Mobil 1 has been in my truck since its second oil change at 33,000 miles and has a little over 80,000 miles now. For an oil filter I use Wix or a Napa filter. I like their construction better and change it every 3,500 miles and change the synthetic oil every 7,000 miles or so. I am personally really scared of the sensitivity of the oiling system in the VQ motors. When I got the truck in the first 6 months the used car warrenty from Carmax had to replace both VTC timing solonoids and both VTC timing sensors mostly due to previous owners negelect to a very sensitive oiling system. At 80,000 miles I just replaced a another VTC timing sensor. What ever you do don't let the oil get dirty.

As for the Tranny fluid I only use the Nissan dealer specified oil.

Steve

[Dasanii19]

I just use the standard 10w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Mobil 1 has been in my truck since its second oil change at 33,000 miles and has a little over 80,000 miles now. For an oil filter I use Wix or a Napa filter. I like their construction better and change it every 3,500 miles and change the synthetic oil every 7,000 miles or so. I am personally really scared of the sensitivity of the oiling system in the VQ motors. When I got the truck in the first 6 months the used car warrenty from Carmax had to replace both VTC timing solonoids and both VTC timing sensors mostly due to previous owners negelect to a very sensitive oiling system. At 80,000 miles I just replaced a another VTC timing sensor. What ever you do don't let the oil get dirty.

As for the Tranny fluid I only use the Nissan dealer specified oil.

Steve

 

Any reason why your going with 10w30 and not 5w30? Im asking because the book calls for 5w30 and that's what I ended up buying (im currently at 110,000 miles)

 

Thanks

[MJBBMANO]

I also heard a ticking sound coming from my engine. I had the oil changed 2 weeks ago at Tire Kingdom. Today when I was driving the oil light came on and there was a ticking noise coming from the engine. I went to Tire Kingdom and they said I wasn't that low on oil. They added a quart and the oil light turned off. The mechanic at Tire Kingdom said my engine is about to die because after adding the oil you could still hear the ticking a bit. When I was driving back home the sound went away. I parked the truck and 3 hours later I turned the truck back on and it didn't tick. Is my engine dying? Should I keep driving it? Any suggestions?

 

Thanks.

[stevebaz]

If you read the owners manual there is 2 levels of oil protection and in Southern California we just dont get the cold temperatures requiring 5w-30 Most of the time the Pathfinder see's 90 degrees or higher and stop and go traffic. Coldest driving conditions for me is maybe 40 degrees F in the winter and thats only in the earliest morning. If I lived in cold winter climate I would diffinately use 5w-30 oil at least in the winter.

[Dasanii19]

If you read the owners manual there is 2 levels of oil protection and in Southern California we just dont get the cold temperatures requiring 5w-30 Most of the time the Pathfinder see's 90 degrees or higher and stop and go traffic. Coldest driving conditions for me is maybe 40 degrees F in the winter and thats only in the earliest morning. If I lived in cold winter climate I would diffinately use 5w-30 oil at least in the winter.

 

I actually read it yesterday, I guess that why I chose 5w30 (its cold here). I also see that Nissan doesn't recommend using a synthetic oil in the pathfinder (at least that's what it says in my 2003 owners manual)

[stevebaz]

On my 2001 my owners manual states on section 10-6

"Mineral based or synthetic oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle. Do not mix mineral based and synthetic type oils in the engine at the same time."

The oil specified is prefered 5w-30. if the temperature is above 0 degrees f can use 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40. When I used 5w-30 in hot weather I had engine clatter on inital start-up due to hot oil drain back so I stopped using 5w-30. no engine noise anymore on engine start-up. This works where I live due to the outside temperatures here. Where you live make your own choice whats best for you.

Why would they change that in the 2003 manual I don't know but maybe they just want your service dollars.

Happy trails,

Steve

[Dasanii19]

On my 2001 my owners manual states on section 10-6

"Mineral based or synthetic oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API quality and SAE viscosity ratings specified for your vehicle. Do not mix mineral based and synthetic type oils in the engine at the same time."

The oil specified is prefered 5w-30. if the temperature is above 0 degrees f can use 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40. When I used 5w-30 in hot weather I had engine clatter on inital start-up due to hot oil drain back so I stopped using 5w-30. no engine noise anymore on engine start-up. This works where I live due to the outside temperatures here. Where you live make your own choice whats best for you.

Why would they change that in the 2003 manual I don't know but maybe they just want your service dollars.

Happy trails,

Steve

 

I don't know why they would change it, but it defiantly says that synthetic is not recommended. There is a reason why Nissan edited that part of the book. Im gonna use standard Catrol GTX 5w30 winter/10w30 summer.

 

Also about the "ticking", ive been using regular unleaded, I hear that this could cause a tick sound. Im gonna start using premium to see if this quiets this tick down at all. What do you think? Could the quality of gas be the culprit? I mean it does suggest to use Premium. Ill post back my outcome.

[stevebaz]

I only use premium fuel and of that 99.99% is all Chevron by choice. As for your ticking if it was fuel related I would suspect it would be on mild acceleration and not just all the time. If there is a noise and its not from the engine internals it could be from the bearings in the belt tensioners, alternator or maybe just an exhaust leak. I would take a piece of heater hose about 3 feet long and hold one end to your ear and use it like a stetchascope to try and chase down the area of noise. Be very careful of moving parts.

Good luck with your search for a cure.

Steve