Tungsten Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 also. i doubt the rubber came loose. there are 6 small bolts on the front of the damper. If somebody changed the timing belt and don't know what they were doing, they probably pulled the pully and not the dampe first and when they put it back together they were miss aligned. it wouldnt run 100 deg out. look at the front of the damper, there are 6 bolts that holds the pully onto the damper. the timing marks are on this. the damper and pully are not keyed together, but the damper is keyed to the crank. so how do i fix that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Take a video or two and let us hear it. Maybe timimg belt loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 can i unbolt the pulley and align it with the damper then? and yea ill try to get a video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 The pulley and damper are bolter together. Once sperated, its a beotch getting it correct again. The damper is keyed to the crank snout, so no changing that. Did you have the belt changed recently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 yes the timing belt is less than 5000 miles old Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Hmm, maybe the tension was set incorrectly. Gonna need to hear it. I would recommend taking a long screwdriver, and using it as a stethascope to listen around your engine. Just put the end of the handle in you ear and touch components and see if you can trace the noise to its loudest point. Be careful around moving parts. Can you feel the noise with your hand on the distributor cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 (edited) well ill see and how do i get that stubborn plug to come out without it breaking in the head Edited November 13, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Clean out the plug hole and make sure nothing is by the plug. Spray some lubricant(PB Blaster-rust penetrant), down onto the plug and let soak. No need to get carried away, but dont spray too little. Try and loosen and then tighten the plug to let the penetrant do its work. Then try and remove. When you put new plugs in, put some anitsieze on the threads to keep a frozen plug from happening again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Post a video... it would make life simpler... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 Post a video... it would make life simpler... Ive been trying to get it but its been raining and ruining the sound. I think I got something tonight, will try to post it. Its a very subtle knock, not harsh, so its a little hard to hear from a camera microphone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 14, 2009 Author Share Posted November 14, 2009 (edited) OMG!! The tick is so high pitched that the microphone in my camera cannot pick it up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY4AoXoNyh0 Well thats as good as I could get it right now. Listen from about 0:11 to when my camera makes a squeak sound. I think it sounds like a blender. Edited November 14, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 Sorry, can't hear anything out of the ordinary on that video. But it does sound good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 14, 2009 Share Posted November 14, 2009 We're trying to help you here so don't take this the wrong way. In this thread you have refered to the sound as a tick, as a knock, and a squeal.. Which is it? the squeal in the video sounded alike an auxilliary belt. and the generally when there is a knock only while accelerating under load its a rod. Lifter Tick is generally from a lifter, caused by lack of oil. wether that lack of oil is from a bad pump, poor oil, low level or oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share Posted November 15, 2009 We're trying to help you here so don't take this the wrong way. In this thread you have refered to the sound as a tick, as a knock, and a squeal.. Which is it? the squeal in the video sounded alike an auxilliary belt. and the generally when there is a knock only while accelerating under load its a rod. Lifter Tick is generally from a lifter, caused by lack of oil. wether that lack of oil is from a bad pump, poor oil, low level or oil pump. oh the squeal wasn't from the engine at all, it was either from something i did to the camera while holding it or a squeaky gas pedal my camera can't pick up the high pitched sound but as far as i know its definitely a spark knock at load it sounds like glass marbles bouncing around in cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 (edited) so apparently the owners manual says that spark knock on acceleration is normal however consistent spark knock when cruising is not and the engine should be adjusted at the dealer to fix it anyone know what adjustment are they talking about? i have that consistent spark knock when cruising (even with 93 octane fuel) Edited November 16, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 timing is to far advanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 i can't believe they didn't key the pulley on the damper that is such a poor design Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 vaccum time it. get a vaccum gauge and hook it to the intake manifold. advance the timing till it maxes out. should be aorund 20lbs. then back it off 2 to 3 pounds.. done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 hook it where? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 any place you can on the intake manifold. Pull your line off the brake booster and use that if you want. Just need a vaccum port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 ok thanks do you know the exact pressure? i took it to the shop to try and get the pulley corrected Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 OK, the timing is set to 15 deg exactly!! Now using new OEM cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. They told me that instead of trying to line up the pulley with the damper, they just made new marks on it. The pulley position really doesn't matter right? Spark knock on load is gone. They said if it comes back on that setting, don't use 87 but use 89 or even 93. I think it should be good but I need some comments. BTW, 15 degrees seems to give less HP but the most torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Um if it comes back take it back, don't just run higher octane. Like 95% of the people here use 87 in their wd21s and don't have any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 (edited) Well, the engine is designed to be ran on 87 octane so I wouldn't think there would be any problems with it. We just don't have the high compression ratio to warrant high-octane fuel. Edited November 16, 2009 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 (edited) well i don't have any issues on either octanes i was just wondering if that pulley provides any additional balancing or if its safe to put new marks on it like they did btw my timing was about 10 degrees off, it ran at 25 lol Edited November 17, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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