Kingman Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I got lucky and it did throw a code, surprisingly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carwilef7 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 *sigh* not meaning to hijack the thread... stuff like this makes me miss the bad old days when I had a '75 chevy 4x4 with a 350 - there just wasn't that much that could be wrong, and you could sit on the fender and fix most of it. Of course, it was toast after 80K, and my Pathy just tonight tripped 150K and the vacuum gauge stays rock steady at 20 in/HG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 AND it never sets a code either, even tho it's supposed to! It sets code, but only if reading voltage from sensor is outside limits. I.e. 0 volt (shortened circuit) or more than 5 volt (short-circuit with another wire inside the harness). Intermittent faults of coolant sensor are not a rare case. They caused by wire crack inside the sensor. Crack breaks circuit at a certain temperature but reconnects when temperature is different, due to a thermal expansion of sensor body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honor Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Brand new here but let me throw my .02 in. I just went thru the timing belt change and a tooth off will make it run like crud and mine backfired when cold. You said this started when you did the tbelt w-pump etc awhile back right. Mine came from the shop a tooth off and it took this place and a good pic on a post for me to get it running right (40 teeth from cam to cam). One tooth will make it run just enough off that it seems like something else. I was convinced the guys had forgot to hook up some sensor or I had a connection loose. I didn't run cold though so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 well its kinda like putting a tbelt on..itll go in but my concern is if I have the pistons lined up when I slide it back in wait...are you saying you took the dizzy out...or just took the dizzy cap off and then replaced the rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 Brand new here but let me throw my .02 in. I just went thru the timing belt change and a tooth off will make it run like crud and mine backfired when cold. You said this started when you did the tbelt w-pump etc awhile back right. Mine came from the shop a tooth off and it took this place and a good pic on a post for me to get it running right (40 teeth from cam to cam). One tooth will make it run just enough off that it seems like something else. I was convinced the guys had forgot to hook up some sensor or I had a connection loose. I didn't run cold though so... Mine doesnt run like crap though..it runs great when warmed up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 wait...are you saying you took the dizzy out...or just took the dizzy cap off and then replaced the rotor? I took the rotor off...but I trhink it went in right...the backfiring I bet is caused by the temp sensor.all the symptoms the guys have mentioned are there.I havent had the time today to mess with it..will keep you guys posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 (edited) oh ok...I thought maybe you had put a new dizzy in and was calling it a rotor.The rotor is hard to put in wrong since it has a screw that holds it in that is on the side and I dont think any one can put it in wrong. Edited October 30, 2009 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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