Jump to content

The proper way to change the transmission fluid on an R50


Recommended Posts

So lets hear it...I thought the best way to do it was to change the fluid through the hoses at the transmission cooler, but it seems like most people have been just draining and refilling on the tranny itself, so I want to hear from some of the experts if just draining and refilling on the tranny itself is satisfactory...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My biggest thing is the FSM says 10 qts for the 5 speed, I want to replace all 10 quarts, so let me know how much you have added and that will make this pretty easy since the cooling system for the trannys is the same...

 

btw: your pic shows the transfer case, but I have the 2001 FSM, I just want to make sure I replace EVERYTHING!

Edited by laxman0324
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My biggest thing is the FSM says 10 qts for the 5 speed, I want to replace all 10 quarts, so let me know how much you have added and that will make this pretty easy since the cooling system for the trannys is the same...

 

btw: your pic shows the transfer case, but I have the 2001 FSM, I just want to make sure I replace EVERYTHING!

 

 

It was odd. The dealer (who gave me a stunningly good price on a bunch of replacement stuff) and his techs figured about 6 quarts would be enough for both A/T and All-Mode. BUT the FSM adds up to 9 on mine. Did the dipstick thing last night and it showed solid levels when measured at HOT levels. Gonna measure again tomorrow. May get the additional 3 quarts the FSM suggests tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on my part, just did the tc, tranny and front diff last weekend...

 

The right way for me is to do it at the transmission pan with the draining bolt. The way I do it is that I have a big canister that is "rated" with ammounts (like 1qt, 2qt, etc..)... So I wait for every dop to be out, then screw back the bolts, and put new atf oil in the same canister up to the same level. Therefore I always know that i'm putting the exact ammount I removed.

 

For the TC and the diffs, it's as easy as draining from one bolt and refilling from the other until it leaks from the hole.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would probably only add one thing that I almost learned the hard way....Always remove the REFILL BOLT FIRST!. This way you are sure that you will be able to refill... On my part the drain bolt of my TC came off easily but the refill one took a ratchet extension and a helper bar (whatever you call this) and at one point it was either it comes off or I break/strip the bolt... I was giving myself a 50/50 chance... This bolt must have been torqued by the earlier owner to probably 100+ ft/pounds if not more...

 

I got lucky.... I understand it would not have change the end results, but at least I would have had the option of stopping right there....With no oil in my TC, I just had to find a way to remove that bolt or else I was going nowhere.!

Edited by fleurys
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AT and MT fluids capacities are a bit different overall, and are different again when you do a flush. when you drain an AT, you aren't emptying the torque converter so you won't be emptying the full capacity.

 

regardless, the MT calls for 10-3/4 pints, not quarts. MTs typically have less fluid than an AT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TO all the Manuals across the land---if Pennzoil Synchromesh is an approved fluid, I highly recommend it! It works superb in any gear grinding Honda, and in the Winter is really not as thick as some of the boo-hoo bears complain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TO all the Manuals across the land---if Pennzoil Synchromesh is an approved fluid, I highly recommend it!It works superb in any gear grinding Honda, and in the Winter is really not as thick as some of the boo-hoo bears complain.

 

I know that the dealership sells and uses Pennzoil for our differentials - perhaps they use the same for M/T ?

 

PS whats "winter"? I have never experienced such a thing ;)

 

If the Mobil1 isn't approved I will look into the Synchromesh...

 

 

Not sure if its approved but I have Mobil1 ATF in both my AT and transfer case and it works great!

Edited by FUELER
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am all Mobile1, and the most noticable difference was the T-case when I changed its fluid.

 

I must admit that Winter around here is just cold, no snow anymore...jet streams just sail around us, never really lining up for us~~or we are really over-due!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am all Mobile1, and the most noticable difference was the T-case when I changed its fluid.

 

I must admit that Winter around here is just cold, no snow anymore...jet streams just sail around us, never really lining up for us~~or we are really over-due!

 

Hey, I'm planning to head to Rausch this wkdn. Wanna join me ?

 

:jacked:

Edited by GoPathyGo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh snap, I work all this weekend. We (You, Lax, Sammy, Me--other locals?) need to make a date up so we can all hook up and go. I finally got Fluerys front skid on (minus a few bolts I had to tap larger), and a Nissan T-case skid too! I just need notice to burn time, I have plenty. Lax how about you? Let the PM's begin!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...