GEOz2k7 Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 the AC control arms adn rear springs, Calmini control arms and springs, and RC and JGC springs. no extra body lift or anything. straight control arms and springs lift pictures please. i wanna see how it looks, and how much performance did that 3" give u guys? feel any different? i am 2wd and i am one who like dunes, straight sand, and mine is more prerunner just lookin for some wider stance and higher sitting. Front side and rear pictures please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I only did the JGC springs for the back first. Wasn't enough so did the 3" lift and the AC UCA's. It was all done at the same time so no pics like what your asking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEOz2k7 Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 I only did the JGC springs for the back first. Wasn't enough so did the 3" lift and the AC UCA's. It was all done at the same time so no pics like what your asking. i am asking for the control arms and springs at once. and how do they perform? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 the AC control arms adn rear springs, Calmini control arms and springs, and RC and JGC springs. no extra body lift or anything. straight control arms and springs lift pictures please. i wanna see how it looks, and how much performance did that 3" give u guys? feel any different? i am 2wd and i am one who like dunes, straight sand, and mine is more prerunner just lookin for some wider stance and higher sitting. Front side and rear pictures please. This is the rough country UCA's and the AC 3" springs. I would not suggest the AC UCA's I have heard bad things almost everywhere I have looked into lifts for the WD21's. I hear they are 2 short sometimes and the ball joint angle is not right on them. Note the tires on the pathfinder in picture are 32 11.5r15 BFG all terrains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEOz2k7 Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 This is the rough country UCA's and the AC 3" springs. I would not suggest the AC UCA's I have heard bad things almost everywhere I have looked into lifts for the WD21's. I hear they are 2 short sometimes and the ball joint angle is not right on them. Note the tires on the pathfinder in picture are 32 11.5r15 BFG all terrains. hmm alright thats sick, is that without even crankin ur tortion bars? and i see people say a lot of bad things about them to. but the ball joint angles cant be any worse then stock right? lol. and i never hurd anything about them being to short.... hmmmm thanks for the picture. those are big tires u rub at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 You MUST crank the t-bars to achieve lift in the front. No matter what UCA's you use, lift is only achieved by cranking the bars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEOz2k7 Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 You MUST crank the t-bars to achieve lift in the front. No matter what UCA's you use, lift is only achieved by cranking the bars. so since my tortion bars are almost maxed i will gain no more lift with the AC control arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Search around a bit. This has been discussed.... Basically, the UCA's allow for proper ball joint angle, and alignability of the truck, when you lift the front end. Torsion bar crank with stock UCA's (Or AC's for that matter) will make the truck very hard to align, and will put the upper ball joint at the extreme of its designed angle. If you have run out of upward adjustment on the t-bars, you may need to reindex them. Search the forum for the instructions on how to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 hmm alright thats sick, is that without even crankin ur tortion bars? and i see people say a lot of bad things about them to. but the ball joint angles cant be any worse then stock right? lol. and i never hurd anything about them being to short.... hmmmm thanks for the picture. those are big tires u rub at all? As stated above you have to crank the t-bars to get the hight. Yes I had to do some trimming on the front the plastic peace from inside bumper is gone, bottom of the front flairs are gone and the corner of the sheet metal by front of front fenders is gone. Those tires are fair sized they will stay as my street tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 you can get a wider stance by buying new wheels. depending on how wide a tire you get, 7" or 8" with neutral backspacing is good. i have an extra 1/4" of negative spacing and a 12.5" tire just barely peeks past the factory flares. btw use the 'more search options' feature when looking through old threads. it works way better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 This is the rough country UCA's and the AC 3" springs. I would not suggest the AC UCA's I have heard bad things almost everywhere I have looked into lifts for the WD21's. I hear they are 2 short sometimes and the ball joint angle is not right on them. Note the tires on the pathfinder in picture are 32 11.5r15 BFG all terrains. This is the same pathfinder with a 3" suspension lift and a 3" body lift in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 I can't seem to find pics, but my 3" or so suspension lift is similar to Bonez, and then I later added a 3" body lift too. Ditto to the comments on cranking the torsion bars. If you want to go pre-running, I'd suggest aftermarket t-bars for the extra strength. The body lift would probably add too much top-heavy weight, though I'm sure you know that. You may run into tire rub though with just the suspension lift, so you might look into some aftermarket bump stops. As far as T-bars, I went to with Sway-Away if you're interested, and there are others. I've run them flat out a couple times on logging roads along with Rancho 5000 shocks, upwards of 90mph, and have jumped several times fooling around, and all is good. You can get the same lift though by re-indexing the T-bars, as has been discussed, though I can't comment on performance or longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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