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CODES


MrT
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ok, so I got a new MAF and things are on the up and up. When I put it in I cleared the codes and got:

 

1002 (now not a problem I assume)

 

3004 -misfire on 4

 

7007 -Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input

7008 -Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input

 

So are these related to my bad MAF or are they something else. It was kicking into the fail-safe mode quite a bit and I don't know if the other codes are just relating to that or not.

Edited by MrT
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ok, well I've pulled these codes before and they are always the same. They showed up as a group only when it went into fail-safe.

 

And it's a 5spd if that matters for the Trans code.

 

EDIT: ok so I checked the FSM (may should have done that first?) and it lists the Mass air as a possible cause for the miss. But I'm still clueless about the Trans codes.

Edited by MrT
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Cap and rotor look to be in good shape. It's always the #4 so I don't think it'd be the coil. Wire has no visible defects. connectors are still clean and with no corrosion so to speak of. Plug is in good shape. replaced them all ~16k ago. They all are wearing the same.

 

Only happens at idle. If I keep it at 1k rpm it's fine. let it drop and after about 20sec to 1min at idle I get the flashing light and a miss code. Will stall out on cold starts but not when warmed up. Only had it knock once and it was on a cold start at about 2 deg F.

Edited by MrT
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The only coil I have is the one in it. The plug looks fine to me (a little white on the electrode). Same as the rest except #2 which is more black than white. Just changed the plugs about 15k ago. Wires test within spec for resistance (~12.5k for #4, ~10.5k for #2[the ones I swapped]). My only thoughts left are bad rings on #4 :( (which would make sense with the stall out on cold starts) or a bad valve (which I would think would happen at all rpm and not just at idle?). I don't have a compression tester though. Any suggestions on brand etc? The only thing that would make sense to me for the coil being bad is that the #4 wire has the highest resistance. Really hoping I don't have a bad valve or rings. Injector maybe? Is it normal for just one to go bad (of course in the most god awful place to get at)?

 

The only other oddity I've noticed is that after I shut off the car after a few mins I can hear a noise that is coming from the tank area (fuel pump?) that will turn on for maybe 5 sec and then shut back off. it'll do it ever couple of minutes or so and then no more after about 10min. I've got an extra fuel filter that I never put on but that just doesn't make sense to me since the miss is always on the same cylinder.

 

Thanks for the help so far btw.

Edited by MrT
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I was looking around when I pulled the computer and I think there is a sensor missing that should get pushed in when the clutch is all of the way out. It WILL crank without the clutch needing to be depressed.

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I was looking around when I pulled the computer and I think there is a sensor missing that should get pushed in when the clutch is all of the way out. It WILL crank without the clutch needing to be depressed.

 

 

Some trucks have a little switch on the dash called a "Clutch start override switch" to allow you to start the truck without the clutch in. It's a 4 wheeling thing. When I did my auto to manual tranny swap on my 1990, I never connected the wiring for that switch on the clutch and it hasn't caused me any driveability problems. Fuel injector, maybe??? Sorry, I am better at figuring out what the problem isn't than what it is.

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