ItsTheBone Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hello NPORA! This is my first post here only a week after finding this forum. So far I have learned quite a bit and found many resources to aid in my pathy repairs. I've had my second pathy now, 94 se at, for just over a year now and its at 130k miles. I've been having a build up of little things giong wrong with it (power antenna, blower, emergency flashers, etc.) that I've been widdling away at. Now I've got a bigger problem. The bypass hose(I think thats what it is) is ruptured and I've been working on fixing it in my driveway for the last week or so after work. Now that the hose is off I can clearly see there is a corroded portion and a hole through the part it was connected to. By the way, what is the part the hose is connecting to from the thermostat? Do I need to replace it or just have someone weld and grind it down to patch it up? Looks like a spendy replacement. In the process of getting to it I've had to get past the cam sprockets using procedures from this forum to get there. Here's what I found under the left cam sprocket. How bad is this? Is it simply a bearing and seal I have to pop off and replace? (crosses fingers) My other seal is clean and leak free. I've had a lot of luck finding leaks and holes, but haven't actually had the chance to get started on repairs! To add to this my starter died and I'll need to replace that. While I'm at it I'm putting on one of those oil filter relocation kits that I think I saw Slick using. I appreciate any help and advice on this! I love working on my pathy, but this is getting pretty bad it seems. Also I live in SE Portland, OR if anyone knows how to work on this and wants to stop by and help or give pointers! Thanks (I have additional photos if more are needed.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 The left cam seal is the one that's notorious for leaking. It's fairly easily replaced. You can either try using a thin-bladed flat screwdriver to gently pry the old seal out or drill a screw-sized hole in it, screw in a screw and use that to tug it out carefully. Be extra careful not to scratch the surface of the cam itself, scratches will make the seal fail very quickly. To install the new seal, lightly tap it in using an appropriately sized socket, hollow drift or the old seal itself to tap on. Good luck, man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsTheBone Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 The left cam seal is the one that's notorious for leaking. It's fairly easily replaced. You can either try using a thin-bladed flat screwdriver to gently pry the old seal out or drill a screw-sized hole in it, screw in a screw and use that to tug it out carefully. Be extra careful not to scratch the surface of the cam itself, scratches will make the seal fail very quickly. To install the new seal, lightly tap it in using an appropriately sized socket, hollow drift or the old seal itself to tap on. Good luck, man! Thanks 88pathoffroad! I was hoping it wouldn't be a larger problem than this. Now I'm just wondering about the other part where the hose connects. And after that HOPEFULLY I can start reassembling everything! Also a quick question for all that have replaced their starters...Where is the best place to get one? Remanufactured or new? And what brand seems to hold up the best? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Most all rebuilts are made in the same place, just put in different boxes depending on what store they are being shipped out to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeV Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I have been hearing about refurb issues (never had to replace one in my pathy but I will buy new or rebuild myself) saving $50 on a refurb vs. being stranded (just my 2 cents) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsTheBone Posted August 20, 2008 Author Share Posted August 20, 2008 MikeV, I've been thinknig new as well. Now I have to make the decision whether to get the starter from Nissan or Schuck's/Napa. I hear the starters from Schuck's/Napa possibly require shims as they are not built for any specific vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I have been hearing about refurb issues (never had to replace one in my pathy but I will buy new or rebuild myself)saving $50 on a refurb vs. being stranded (just my 2 cents) Both k9sar and mws have written up starter rebuild/reconditioning procedures. It doesn't seem too hard and worth the effort to try. Search for them, and I'll do the same later... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbeck Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Now that the hose is off I can clearly see there is a corroded portion and a hole through the part it was connected to. By the way, what is the part the hose is connecting to from the thermostat? Do I need to replace it or just have someone weld and grind it down to patch it up? Looks like a spendy replacement. That is called the Water Outlet and the part code is 11060. It is $45 at an online Nissan parts place or $5 at the junkyard. It unbolts easily. The are some differences on other models with VGs, but it is possible to visually ID what you need. How bad is this? Is it simply a bearing and seal I have to pop off and replace? (crosses fingers) My other seal is clean and leak free.I've had a lot of luck finding leaks and holes, but haven't actually had the chance to get started on repairs! To add to this my starter died and I'll need to replace that. While I'm at it I'm putting on one of those oil filter relocation kits that I think I saw Slick using. It is easy. There's no bearing, just the seal. It slides into the bore and is held in with friction. It is possible to tap in with a socket an hammer, but I drive them in with a tool I make out of PVC. Any PVC the correct diameter will work. It makes it easier to drive in strait and control how far the seal goes in. It is possible to go in too far, and then you have to destroy the new seal and put in another. Also, there is no economy in doing one; always do both sides. Here are some recent pictures of mine. If you are down for a while, I would try to fix the starter. If you need to get back on the road, I would get one from the junkyard, and fix the old one as a spare to keep on the shelf. You can also track down someone local into VGs and I'm sure they would have one dirt cheap or free. I'm sure I have a half dozen boxed up here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsTheBone Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 (edited) I bought the seals and tried removing it with a metal pick with no success. The plastic is just breaking apart as I try and get it out. The walls on the seal are too thin to drive a screw into and break when I use the pick. This is getting pretty frustrating for me and I've taken a few days off from working on it. I've sort of hit a wall. It seems as if I will have to remove the cover and the cam in order to get this seal off. I've been told some seals lock in and I think this is one of them. I'm out of ideas and considering a tow to my mechanic. Sigh. Edited August 22, 2008 by ItsTheBone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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