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she is almost done.....


json3904
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thank you as you can see i have to tirm the fender well and i just picked up the cv boot kit... not the split boot like i had before...anyone know of a how to on the replacment of the cv boot... ie how to remove the shaft???? thanks for the help.....

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the tires are 31x11.5x15 and it has a 3"BL... i need to get a SL since the rear end is real soft...... trying to talk the wife into it but she aint budging..... she says i spent to much as it is LOL.....

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here is a few more pic's

 

this one is a side shot of the pathy

0318081841.jpg

 

here is two of the rear light i isntalled since the tint is so dark and im going to be doing some night wheeling at the end of this month...... cant wate

0318081923.jpg

 

0318081923a.jpg

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some ppl say this sounds schetchy but to help bide time untill you get your SL you can get those rubber spacers in your springs for about $8 each (you'll need 2 of course). It will stifen your ride and may bring it up a little (depending on how lively your suspention still is). I learned the hard way that the little rubber buterfly shaped ones and similar styles fall out when your suspension flexes allot, leaving you crooked. (lol duh what was I thinking) the round rubber ones that you thread into your coil seem to do the trick for stiffness tho.

I haven't tried coil spacers that sit on top or bottom of your spring but those are aloso cheap and may be a better option

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thank you as you can see i have to tirm the fender well and i just picked up the cv boot kit... not the split boot like i had before...anyone know of a how to on the replacment of the cv boot... ie how to remove the shaft???? thanks for the help.....

 

Hope this helps.

 

Block the rear wheels and jack up the front of the vehicle and put it on stands, remove the wheel on the side in question. I suggest removing the wheel from the other side too tho you don't have too. Put the Transmission in neutral and the T-case in 4high....You'll need to slip from 2 to 4 high at different times to lock the driveshaft while accessing and loosening or tightening the CV/Diff bolts.

 

Remove the five bolts attaching the axle to the diff. An air wrench or air ratchet with a long extension makes things nice and easy. You're not going for high torque so I just used a regular 8" extension to reach in there. Be ready to use a strap wrench to turn the front driveshaft so the diff flange rotates to allow access to all the bolts.

 

Remove the free wheeling hub and remove the snap ring holding the axle inside the wheel hub.

 

Disconnect the outer tie rod end from the front of the knuckle.

 

Remove the disk brake caliper and wire it up out of the way.

 

Carefully use a jack to lift and support the lower control arm, keeping an eye on the nearside jackstand to be safe. Unbolt the four bolts securing the upper A-Arm to the ball joint and wire it up out of the way too.

 

Use your hand to turn the steering knuckle to the right as far as it'll go (for removing passengers axle, turn left to remove the drivers side axle) and rotate the wheel hub out and down towards the front. Work the axle out along the chassis towards the rear. At this point you will likely end up determining the shock has to be removed as well, do so if required. There is only about 25mm of clearance but there is room to wriggle it out. Use a jack to raise or lower the lower control arm and wheel hub if needed.

 

Make sure that the spacer came out with the old axle, it’s a copper alloy washer that goes over the outer end of the shaft and rides against the back of the wheel hub.

 

The rest is straight forward as far as replacing the boots go.

To get the boots off, you have to pop the end cap of the inner CV, the end cap that goes against the diff flange. Do not prise it of, just bump the joint against he bench with the cap facing up, so the joint is pushing it off from the inside. You'll see what i mean when you get in there.

Once you have access to the back of the joint, you can remove the circlip holding the ball section of the joint to the axel shaft, and with a rubber mallet, persuade the ball section to slide off the splines. Mine was very tight, needed alot of persuasion.

You can slide the outer boot off now. The outer joint does not come apart readily, pack it as best you can.

 

A tip for using those steel clips the boots come with:

Hold the joint in the vice, place the clip so it is wrapped round the joint only once and threadit through the clasp bit.

Attach vice grips to the lose end of the clip tightly and pull on it for all you are worth, when its as tight as you can get it, keep the pressure on and bend it back over the clasp so it kind of hooks its self there, keeping the pressure on still, pick up a hammer and knock the lock tabs down and flatten the clasp arangement. It ain't going no where now!!! Cut the loose and off to tidy it up.

 

The installation is a reverse of the above.

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those are just 31's? they look huge. I have 31's and they do not look as mean as that. what kinda M/T you running?

 

i should have gotten 11.5 instead of 10.5 =(

 

they are 31x11.5x15 SS ltb's.... if you think those are huge you should se the ones my buddy just picked up they are 33x13.5x15 SS ltb's here is a few pics of his set up.....

 

mine are on the left of this pic

newshoes.jpg

 

IMG_3035.jpg

 

IMG_3040.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

well all this weekend i will be hitting the trails.... i will take some pics, and let yall know how the pathy works out.... i have been waiting for this weekend since i bought her.. LOL

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