pathmaker1 Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 oh and Sean...i have a feeling its the 2 wires on the top plug inder the hood....the big brown/black wires but i cannot confirm that. im thinkin that if you cut those 2 wires and solder them together it should close the relay. the only thing is that if im wrong we could start frying fuseable links and other important electrical @!*% ya know. ill hit you up tomorrow after my dentist appointment....around noon Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 ok sorry for the triple post but Sean keep an eye on this thread: http://www.roninwheelers.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2209 its the guys at Ronin and im talkin to a couple guys about the wiring issues. hookin the auto back up isnt going to tell you much unless you cut wires individually and when it doesnt start assume its those wires that need to be connected. im working on getting a good FSM with GOOD scematics and hopefully i can figure this crap out tomorrow. its not hard just tedious and if its not right things may fry which is a BAD thing!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted April 9, 2008 Author Share Posted April 9, 2008 ok sorry for the triple post but Sean keep an eye on this thread: http://www.roninwheelers.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2209 its the guys at Ronin and im talkin to a couple guys about the wiring issues. hookin the auto back up isnt going to tell you much unless you cut wires individually and when it doesnt start assume its those wires that need to be connected. im working on getting a good FSM with GOOD scematics and hopefully i can figure this crap out tomorrow. its not hard just tedious and if its not right things may fry which is a BAD thing!!! I'll be out to sea from the 9th of april to the 20th of april. Rich, i'll give you a call on the 19th when they drop me off in Florida and i'll be driving back by the morning of the 20th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted April 9, 2008 Share Posted April 9, 2008 thats cool man.....ive been sleepin all day. my alergies(i think) are kickin my ass. i missed my dentist appointment cause i cant even get outta bed. i hate being sick. i think ill have a solutioin for the wiring for you by the time you get home. give me a call and let me know when you get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted April 21, 2008 Author Share Posted April 21, 2008 OK, I've been out to sea, but... I went out yesterday and finished connecting the clutch lines, cut the brake pedal, put fluid in the tranny, installed the rear driveshaft, and connected the wires to allow the starter to work without the neutral position switch. Busy night! So, i guess all i have to do is bleed the clutch, put the dash back together, drill holes in my crossmember, fluid in the transfer case, install exhaust Y-pipe, hook up the reverse lights, install front driveshaft, trim the interior console (hits shifter in 5th and reverse) and drive it to the beach to test it out. I see the end of the light!!! P.S. thanks rich and sam for your help with the wiring...I was a little worried while i was out to sea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 no worries man. glad its all working out for ya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 I think i'm going to start by hooking up the auto tranny next to the truck to see if i can get it going. Then at least i can rule out something else going on. leave the auto computer hooked up and dont screw with the wiring...when you pulled the auto shifter out there was this switch (Park/Neutral interlock switch) if you connect that switch the truck will start up in any gear (I just ran electrical tape around it several times for the 1st pass and now i just soldered the wires together...it took me about 2 or 3 days to figure that out on my 95 to 87 swap (the 95 was auto, 87 manual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted April 22, 2008 Share Posted April 22, 2008 yea the large wires leading to the shifter on the transmission side i believe there are only two Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Now i just need to figure out how to connect the wires so that the brake lights and reverse lights come on. There also seems to be differeing opinions on what type of fluid to use in the transfer case. I have some dexron/mercon V ATF in my shed, so i'm hoping that's what it calls for. my haynes and chilton manuals seem to differ. Any insights for a 1990 transfer case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pktzygt Posted April 24, 2008 Author Share Posted April 24, 2008 I took the truck for a spin around the block this afternoon. I got alot of stares...probably the open headers. Still no reverse lights and some other little things to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 25, 2008 Share Posted April 25, 2008 GL4 for tcase and tranny... check the local laws...reverse lights may not be a requirement...my 87 has never had reverse lights since i've owned it and in NC they're not required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarryChest Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 So I just finished up all the mechanical components of my swap, now on to wiring. Electrical components\problems are definitely my weakness, I started by cutting the two wires at the park sensor switch on the actual shifter and twisting them together with a wire nut. After reading the above posts I realized I'll definitely have to do a lot more, could anyone sum this up for an eletrically challenged structural engineer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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