mikeysentra Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I am going to be doing a 4x4 service on my 97 pathy this weekend. I know the t-case takes about 2.5 quarts of dextron III ATF but what is the capacities of the front and rear diff's? I am going to put redline 75-90 in the diffs and the new dextron 6 synthetic ATF in the T-case. but at around 10.00 a quart I dont want to buy too much. I know the book calls for 80-90 and dex 3 but after talking to redline I am fine by going to these viscosities. also the redline has the LSD additive in it all ready so I wont have to mees around with additive. TIA Mikeysentra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 I am going to be doing a 4x4 service on my 97 pathy this weekend. I know the t-case takes about 2.5 quarts of dextron III ATF but what is the capacities of the front and rear diff's? I am going to put redline 75-90 in the diffs and the new dextron 6 synthetic ATF in the T-case. but at around 10.00 a quart I dont want to buy too much. I know the book calls for 80-90 and dex 3 but after talking to redline I am fine by going to these viscosities. also the redline has the LSD additive in it all ready so I wont have to mees around with additive. TIA Mikeysentra Can you elaborate on why you are fine with those viscosities over recommended? And if someone could add in the amount that the transmission takes, as well as the coolant system, brake system, and power steering...im going to do it all this summer after the first paycheck...better to keep her running then making her look good sitting in the driveway broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted January 31, 2008 Author Share Posted January 31, 2008 Can you elaborate on why you are fine with those viscosities over recommended? And if someone could add in the amount that the transmission takes, as well as the coolant system, brake system, and power steering...im going to do it all this summer after the first paycheck...better to keep her running then making her look good sitting in the driveway broken. I am fine with 75-90 as after I talked to several techs at the Chevrolet dealership where I work, and Redline directly, I am assured that there will be no damaging effects. In fact the rear diff oil that is in it is 75-90 as that is what one of our lead tech put in it when he changed it last year, and I have had no issues with the rear end after about 15,000 miles. I only had him change the rear diff fluid before as I had just bought it and wanted to see the condition of the fluid. It was really clean so I didnt change the other fluids in the 4x4 system. but now I want to change them all as per the full service history that I have, in keeping with the intervals that have been done in the past. One of the really nice things about my particular pathy is I have every maintnance record from the origanal selling dealer and owner for all sevices and work that has been done. everything was done on schedual or a little early all its life. and thats one of the reasons I think that buying this one owner 125,000 mile pathy was a great purchase and why I paid a little on the high side for it. I also only run redline lubricants in the diffs, t-case, power steering and such because it has a better heat tollerance and lubricity than other oils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/199...thfinder/ma.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 the diffs take around three quarts each or so (cant remember) 80w-90 is whats recommended, dealer sells pennzoil, im sure slightly higher or lower weight wouldn't hurt but i prefer to stick by the book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeysentra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 I ended up needing only 5 quarts of gear oil to fill the diffs. also ran into somthing interesting. The T-case was full of gear oil instead of ATF. So while I had the pathy on the lift I filled the t-case with ATF and ran it in 4 wheel on the lift for 10 min to flush the t-case then drained it and filled again with ATF. all seems to be good. I was wondering if it was a cover up for some noise or somthing, but it looks like it was just a mistake. anyone think somthing was damaged by the wrong fluids being put in the t-case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 (edited) I ended up needing only 5 quarts of gear oil to fill the diffs. also ran into somthing interesting. The T-case was full of gear oil instead of ATF. So while I had the pathy on the lift I filled the t-case with ATF and ran it in 4 wheel on the lift for 10 min to flush the t-case then drained it and filled again with ATF. all seems to be good. I was wondering if it was a cover up for some noise or somthing, but it looks like it was just a mistake. anyone think somthing was damaged by the wrong fluids being put in the t-case? No. The t-case can be lubricated with either ATF or gear oil. Edited February 5, 2008 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 No. The t-case can be lubricated with either ATF or gear oil. Which is better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Which is better? Use ATF if you have an auto, gear oil if you have a 5-speed. The reason is that if the seal between the tranny and t-case fails or leaks, the fluids won't cross-contaminate each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Use ATF if you have an auto, gear oil if you have a 5-speed. The reason is that if the seal between the tranny and t-case fails or leaks, the fluids won't cross-contaminate each other. ahhh...makes sense. I have an auto so ill stick with ATF, any point in spending the money on synthetic fluids for a 110k truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 ahhh...makes sense. I have an auto so ill stick with ATF, any point in spending the money on synthetic fluids for a 110k truck? It depends on how much longer you intend to keep it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 It depends on how much longer you intend to keep it. Thats not a question, until it dies of natural causes, i always do preventative maintenance. I was more worried about some leaks springing up going to synthetic as Ive heard of...how much more does it cost per quart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Thats not a question, until it dies of natural causes, i always do preventative maintenance. I was more worried about some leaks springing up going to synthetic as Ive heard of...how much more does it cost per quart? I think synthetic ATF runs about $6-$9 per quart. Non-synthetic ATF varies at prices from $2-$4 per quart. I haven't heard of any leaking issues that resulted from the switch from standard to synthetic ATF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I think synthetic ATF runs about $6-$9 per quart. Non-synthetic ATF varies at prices from $2-$4 per quart. I haven't heard of any leaking issues that resulted from the switch from standard to synthetic ATF. Ok, If i go synthetic I am going synthetic on everything though, diffs, tcase, engine oil, so that couple dollars per quart adds up. Time to start saving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Ok, If i go synthetic I am going synthetic on everything though, diffs, tcase, engine oil, so that couple dollars per quart adds up. Time to start saving If you decide to run synthetic fluids in your diffs and t-case, I recommend Amsoil. It's not cheap, but it's reportedly very good, and should last much longer than conventional oils. I'm not sure that I would use Amsoil in the engine, though. It's pretty expensive to replace every 3-5K miles. The other fluids have much longer change intervals, so the "cost-per-mile" is much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 If you decide to run synthetic fluids in your diffs and t-case, I recommend Amsoil. It's not cheap, but it's reportedly very good, and should last much longer than conventional oils. I'm not sure that I would use Amsoil in the engine, though. It's pretty expensive to replace every 3-5K miles. The other fluids have much longer change intervals, so the "cost-per-mile" is much better. Ive always used Mobil1 in my vehicles...My Mercedes had Mobil1 full synthetic in every component and every mechanical component was still running strong after 230k, its the electrical problems that killed me...ill look into the amsoil though, never hurts to try something new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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