Badiceman Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 My truck does this thing where as you accelerate it sort of lurches and you loose all power. Then might die when you stop. It has happened in the past and when taken to the shop I was told that the fuel filter was filled with crap so they replaced it. Fixed! Not so much, problem continued. I was later told that it was bad Safeway gas clogging up the filter. So I ran some fuel injector cleaner through it and started getting chevron gas. That seemed to do the trick. Now about a month later it’s worse then ever! I ran some more fuel injector cleaner which got me home but she still hardly runs. What now? Do I need to replace the fuel filter again? Why is it happening again? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Check the MAF sensor wiring and clean it. Common problem. There's a How-To article in the Garage section on how to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 I've done that. Your How-To was very helpfull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Ah, OK. FYI, I've never gotten "bad gas", ever. Much less gas that will clog up a fuel filter in a short amount of time... There's a strainer on the fuel pump for a reason, heh. You can try a new filter, sure. They're cheap and relatively easy to replace. How's your cap and rotor look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Yep, thats what I was going to say. Check the basic tune up parts, then check the ECU for codes. I just had a distributor cap cause me grief... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 I dont know a whole lot about cars. Could you explain a little more about the distributor cap and rotor. Like how do I check them? Any links would be a huge help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Ok, the distributor supplies the spark to the sparkplugs. It is the front, top gizmo with the 7 wires in the top of it. Thats the cap. The rotor is inside. Remove the 3 screws that hold the cap on and lift it up. There are 6 contacts around the outside and 1 in the center that should touch the top of the rotor. Mine was missing the center one, and was arking. This made the truck run quite poorly. The contacts in the cap and the rotor should be clean, uncorroded, unpitted and not burned for the motor to run well. If there is crap on the contacts, lightly scrape it off with sand paper or something. Reinstall the cap and see if that helps at all. If it looks pretty bad, you should buy new ones. B Sorry, but I can''t seem to upload any photos right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Have you checked the computer for any error codes? There's a how-to in the Garage section. Maybe something is giong out on ya. Ditto on the rest of the stuff- cap and rotor, etc. I'd also be highly suspect of you getting bad gas, especially from somewhere like Safeway. Those places tend to go through tons of product. Have you verified that he MAF wiring is back together securely and such? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 25, 2007 Author Share Posted December 25, 2007 Thanks. Checked the distributor cap, cleaned contacts, looks good. Still having the same problem. Im really thinking its the fuel filter. Not to long ago I had it replaced and if it needs it agian what is making it get all cloged up? I dont want to have to go through this every 3 months. Any info on replacing it would be great (im not paying a shop to do it this time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exploited789 Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 same thing is happening to me it was sluggish i took it for a tune up then it wouldnt start i checked all the gaps in the plugs and fixed that checked cap and rotor the wires are in the correct order new fuel filter it also has trouble starting it will start but idle low or jump so my guess is the fuel pump? but also the check engine light came on when tyhey were done and it was throwing out codes for a leaking fuel injector and something about the idle switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 did you (or the garage) mess with your timing at all? or accidentally turn the dist? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 25, 2007 Author Share Posted December 25, 2007 I ran the codes came up 55 no malfunction. Yes the shop did replace the timing belt. And the MAF wiring looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89_trailboss Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 ive never had a problem with a fuel filter in a gasser. but its not going to hurt anything replacing your filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 25, 2007 Author Share Posted December 25, 2007 (edited) I just don't understand why the fuel injector cleaner seemed to fix it. What did that stuff do? And what is making the problem come back? Edited December 26, 2007 by Badiceman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 25, 2007 Share Posted December 25, 2007 I don't see a way you're going to have to replace a fuel filter every 3 months, unless you're dumping stuff down into your tank from your local Gasolator & Taco Stand, or your fuel system is rotting away somehow and providing its own mess (unlikely). Maybe you really do have some injector issues. What injector product are you using? Have you tried a couple tanks in a row including the system cleaner product? Does anybody know a method for checking the injectors? 2nd, have you checked other stuff like the air filter and catalytic converter, etc.? Basically, other easy choke points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 same thing is happening to me it was sluggish i took it for a tune up then it wouldnt start i checked all the gaps in the plugs and fixed that checked cap and rotor the wires are in the correct order new fuel filter it also has trouble starting it will start but idle low or jump so my guess is the fuel pump? but also the check engine light came on when tyhey were done and it was throwing out codes for a leaking fuel injector and something about the idle switch If your error codes indicate an injector problem, start there. There's a reason error codes come up on the ECU... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 I was useing 3m fuel injector cleaner and no I havn't tried running more then 1 tank full at a time. Could useing the fuel injector cleaner alot damage anything? Air filiter is good new k&N. I have only checked the MAH sensor, distributor cap, and run for codes. I dont know any other things to do. I'm just really thinking its something to with the fuel system because of how the cleaner seemed to fix the problem for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 That's what i'd be guessing too, at this point. Maybe run some more system cleaner for a bit and cruis around, but if anything that's a Band Aid. 88 or anybody, any suggestions on how to narrow down a possible injector issue? By the way, sorry if I'm just blind, what year is your truck? TBI or MPFI? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 BG 44K is probably the best fuel system cleaner I've ever used. It's about $20 a can, but if you put in in a 3/4 full tank you'll notice a difference by the next fill up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 1988 and I dont know what TBI or MPFI is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 TBI = Throttle Body Injection MPFI = Multi-Port Fuel Injection 1988's are, I think, Throttle Body? Redfinder or 88, correct me if I'm wrong? If you can visibly see the fuel "lines" running either side of the engine, you have multi-port fuel injection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Nice response guys! Yes, TBI is Throttle Body Injection, the '88 will have it. It looks like a carburator with 2 injectors pissing down the throat, sort of... BadIceDude, this may be hard to trouble shoot, it doesn't seem straight forward... Be patient, and lets try with the easiest first. 1) Do you have access to a multimeter (for measuring impedence/resistance...) Anyone to help you?? Easy you other guys, electronics isn't my strong point!! WARNING. You will be dealing with gas, so take all precautions. Cover skin, eyes. Do not proceed near flame/spark sources!!! Have a fire extinguisher handy!! 2) The fuel filter is on the left rearish side of the engine compartment. In is the bottom, out is the top. Pinch off the in (bottom) hose with vicegrips and a rag, unscrew the clamp AND with a jar ready, remove the bottom fuel line and catch what drains out of the filet in a clear (glass) jar. This will drain quick, so be ready!! It may be easier if you remove the fuel filter from the clip that holds it first. Pay attention, and it will be straight forward. NOW, the gas in the jar, do you see any crap in it?? Thats what I am wondering, if the rubber fuel lines have degraded. The next (probably unnecessary, but try it since you are here) step is put the pinched off 'in' fuel line into a large, clear container (COVER YOUR EYES. SAFETY GLASSES OR SHADES AT WORST) and release the vicegrips. If no gas came out, have someone turn on the ignition VERY briefly (do not crank the starter, just turn on the ignition. Do not stand in front of the truck!!) and collect the gas that is pumped out. Do you see ANY crap in it?? Sorry for all the silly CAUTION warnings, but as you are a noob, I'd really rather say it than risk you getting hurt, not understanding... Lets go from here. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badiceman Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share Posted December 26, 2007 Thanks so much for all your help. Im leaving for a week but as soon as I get back I will get back to you guys on how its coming. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exploited789 Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 well i took my truck in for diagnostics and they said i need my fly wheel resurfaced and a new pressure plate, but that still doesnt account for when its in neutral ill put the peddle to the floor and the truck will rev to 2000 then bog down and shut off or it will bog down between 2000 and 2500, say i have it in third and if the rpms are at 2 or alittle below the truck will shutter and stall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 If you have them do it, let them know you want to SEE the flywheel before and after the surfacing so you have proof they did it. Stealerships like to work on parts you can't see... that way they can charge you for work they didn't do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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