dagwoodzz Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) A buddy called me today in spot. Changing the brakes on his '92, the driver side he could not get the caliper back over the disk. He's using c-clamp to open them up. He is sure the bleeder is cracked. He is using c-clamp to back them out. I think he has completely removed the caliper instead of leaving one side connected. any tips he might try or could something slipped behind the caliper preventing it from opening completely? He's not near a computer but if there is a simple fix I can give him a call and try to help him out. My suggestion for the moment is to 1.remove new pads 2.install thru bolt on top side of caliper 3.completly remove bleeder 4. reset new pads 5. force calipers open with c-clamp 6.slide caliper over disk 7. re-install bottom caliper bolt 7.5 re-tighten bleeder (edit) 8. test brakes! Edited December 20, 2007 by dagwoodzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denisb Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 It's possible he has a seized caliper. You should be able to pretty well push the pistons back without removing the bleeders. I've never had to take the bleeders off to push the pistons back (unless he clamped off the brake line coming in). I've had to use a clamp before tho. If they go in really tight he might have to remove the piston out completely and clean the piston (not recomended if you've never done it before tho). This would eliminate premature pad wear due to seized or semi-seized pistons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 If he drove the pistons out too far (or was not careful), they may be cocked somewhat and binding. if he continues to force them, he could damage them. He needs to check if the piston end is parallel to caliper bore face. Measuring with calipers would be the right way, but careful eyeball may show it. He would need to press in the highest point first, just until it budges (or close the bleeder and press on the petal, but this risks shoving the piston completely out). Using 1 C clamp to depress the piston, one needs to put in a piece of metal or wood and center the clamp in the CENTER of the piston. Make sure the bleeder is open by stepping lightly on the brake and making sure fluid comes out. Corrosion/crap around the exposed OD of the piston that will not allow it to be depressed all the way. This would have to be carefully cleaned off (brush, sand paper, cleaned VERY well). He should be able to tell how far the pistons should be able to go. Wrong brake pads, too thick?? Thats all I can think of now. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 1.remove new pads2.install thru bolt on top side of caliper 3.completly remove bleeder 4. reset new pads 5. force calipers open with c-clamp 6.slide caliper over disk 7. re-install bottom caliper bolt 7.5 re-tighten bleeder nono.gif (edit) 8. test brakes! 2 new (remanufactured) calipers.. or If he drove the pistons out too far (or was not careful), they may be cocked somewhat and binding. Using 1 C clamp to depress the piston, one needs to put in a piece of metal or wood and center the clamp in the CENTER of the piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 LOL MZ!! Err, just thought, could the slide pins be corroded enough where they don't leave enough caliper gap even if the pistons are totally depressed? I think so, but my mental picture is flickering and has a lot of static right now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 highly uneven wear of the pads could be caused by bad pins or stuck piston. not sure what you mean by "gap" when fully depressed. there shouldn't be any or you're not going to stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 (edited) I was the one with the problem and it's now fixed. My problem was that where the bolts and the holes lineup was off. I thought the caliper was bent but it wasn't. Just like Precise1 said the problem was the pin that holds the holes in place were stuck. I picked up a set from auto zone it was the only place still open. It was just the matter of finding the right adjustment and everything was fine. I didn't really see that as being the problem by the way it was acting, but it was. Also everything else was fine. I know that sounds silly, oh well life goes on. p.s. thanks for the help Edited December 20, 2007 by Bobby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Glad to hear it, what time did you finish? I'll need your help tomorrow pulling me from the mud . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Glad to hear it, what time did you finish? I'll need your help tomorrow pulling me from the mud . About 11 pm, lol more like the other way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Cool, glad you got it figured out!! I know that sounds silly, oh well life goes on. Bah, I'm fairly handy, and I don't hesitate to ask about things. All to often someone knows a trick you dont or a suggestion to try that you didn't even think of. NO one knows it all, all of the time... LOL at the recovery requests. Do you have 'who can bury their truck the most' contests?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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