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Engine Swap


ILoveMyPatty
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I actually didn't have any problems accessing the top tranny bolts. I just used a regular open end wrench and hammer and that's without a body lift. Can't remember if I used extensions for the others but it helps though. As for the crappy exhaust flange bolts, I just soaked them down with PB blaster, used extensions, and a cheater bar.... long pipe and slipped it over the ratchet.

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The exhaust flange bolts on the passenger side came out with a little muscle, no penetrating lube.

I haven't touched the drivers side, I can't get at them with the tools that I have right now; 4 6" extentions and one pivoting ratchet, among normal ones too....

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Extensions with the Impact wrench from the bottom side will do the trick, make sure you have an extra socket, you might get one stuck on the inside nut... I had to remove the nuts. holding the manifold on, then it had some play to get full access to the last one... Use a Small Pipe Wrench on the EGR Tube...

 

Before you reinstall: put the drives side header on loosely, then connect the EGR tube top and bottom, get 2 or 3 good turns on the threads... Then torque the header down.... May save you from having to cut the EGR Tube like I did... Slick got hers to fit with out cutting the EGR.... I was not as lucky...

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I've decided to cut the exhaust out, because I don't want to re-use it anyway, with that huge crush in the front pipe...

Thorleys bolt up to the existing flange at the y-pipe right?

What does an exhaust shop do when they build a system off of the Thorleys, do they scrap the y-pipe and build off of each header and weld their own? Or do they build a flange that will bolt up to the y-pipe... Hmmm.

 

This is the only thing that's holding me back. So once I get the exhaust out of the way, the transmission-engine bolts can come out, and the engine mount bolts, and she'll come right out? Do I need to do anything with the actual transmission itself?

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Do I need to do anything with the actual transmission itself?

 

support it and slide it backwards so that the input shaft comes out of the clutch/engine/flywheel

 

thorleys have 2 down pipes (or at least the sets i've seen do) that collect on the driverside like teh stock set its best to weld in the middle but I think a compression band can be used as well

 

what all do you have disconnected? you need to have all your plumbing and electrical disconnected...i would disconnect the clutch slave cylinder from the tranny as well as the electrical stuff in case it decides to fall it wont rip up all of that stuff...shifter linkage and all that has to be disconnected (set of snap ring pliers help but I always use needle nose since the ring is so stiff) pretty much if everything in the FSM that is supposed to be removed is removed then yes it can be pulled...make sure you get the bolts going from the engine side into the tranny removed or it wont separate i missed those the 1st go round and got really pissed b/c it wouldnt come out then i found those

 

a tip for the tranny bolts...dont pull them all the way out until u're ready to move the tranny...this way if it shifts and goes to fall the bolts will keep it in and keep you safe/alive

 

also keep the motor mount bolts tight until the tranny is removed and the engine is supported by the hoist...a ratcheting wrench will help for the mount bolts on the drivers side...

Edited by unccpathfinder
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I've decided to cut the exhaust out, because I don't want to re-use it anyway, with that huge crush in the front pipe...

Thorleys bolt up to the existing flange at the y-pipe right?

What does an exhaust shop do when they build a system off of the Thorleys, do they scrap the y-pipe and build off of each header and weld their own? Or do they build a flange that will bolt up to the y-pipe... Hmmm.

 

This is the only thing that's holding me back. So once I get the exhaust out of the way, the transmission-engine bolts can come out, and the engine mount bolts, and she'll come right out? Do I need to do anything with the actual transmission itself?

My Thorleys matched right up, with new longer bolts...

 

Thorley supplies a new cross over, hack it out unless you plan on converting it back to stock ever... as if...

 

My exhaust guys took the stock flange and welded the new pipe to it after boring out the ID, ran 3" to the Muffler and 2.5" out the back in the stock location. Do not let them weld the new piping to the Thorleys....

 

Auto Tranny, you got 4 bolts that connect the flywheel to the Torque Converter... Extensions out the front over the Center Link access them through the hole removing the starter created....

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what all do you have disconnected?

I have all of the electrical and lines disconnected in the engine bay itself, except for one line on the passenger side, that I have no idea what it is. A bigger line, almost like the AC line, curved from the wheel well, down the side of the engine, but towards the front.

I'll get some more pictures one of these days, I have to work tomorrow cutting firewood all day, so I doubt I will be able to get some shots of it.

 

I need to get new exhaust anyway. I cut out my muffler and replaced it with a glasspack, did a horrible job too.

I'll have to disco the slave cyl, and lines next time I go out there to work on it.

Next day I work on it, I plan to have the engine out.

I wish you could put an engine in with Thorleys installed.. that would make it a little easier :P

Edited by ILoveMyPatty
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