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Making a custom spool for the frontend.


TrailChaser
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I talked about this yesterday with my boss and he told me to get the carrier out of the parts pathy and bring it to work and we'll make a spool for it instead of welding the spider gears to the side gears.

If the project goes smooth I may be making up a couple extras to pass on to friends for a fee. We'll just have to see how easy/time comsuming it ends up being. I like a challenge, but I have a feeling cutting the gear pattern is gonna be tricky.

 

If anyone has any tips or anything I'm all ears. I've never had a front diff apart. So it's all new to me.

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Locked or spooled IFS front diffs tend to destroy themselves much faster than LSD-equipped IFS. I dunno. I haven't really looked at the innards of an R200, but it would seem feasible to be able to build a mini-spool if you have the equipment needed to spline the insides of it. I'd take one if you had extras. ;)

 

Build us some front diff drop bushings while you're at it so I can quit destroying CV's!

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OR, you could just leave the stock bumpstops on there and be done with it. you wont bind a CV if you have stock bumpstops. I know I dont. honestly tho, what are the bushings, 5/8" drop? I think there stupid. your IFS isnt going to flex much at all. leave the bump stops on and be done with it. weld it up then you wont need the extra .5-.75" droop that lowpro bumpstops give you. hell I ran with no bumpstops on stock UCA and never binded.

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The point is, I'd like the max amount of travel and use I can get out of it and relocating the diff down a little helps a lot in that department. Your method is fine if you stay near-stock, I simply would like a little more out of mine.

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Locked or spooled IFS front diffs tend to destroy themselves much faster than LSD-equipped IFS. I dunno. I haven't really looked at the innards of an R200, but it would seem feasible to be able to build a mini-spool if you have the equipment needed to spline the insides of it. I'd take one if you had extras. ;)

 

Build us some front diff drop bushings while you're at it so I can quit destroying CV's!

I've got an abundance of CV's and hubs on hand to destroy, and I'm getting good/fast at replacing them. I just want to get down the trails better. I've been planning on just welding it, but was talked into trying to machine a spool for it first as a little practice project. I'm planning on swapping out the IFS for a solid axle pretty soon anyway.

 

Send me some specs/drawings on the diff drop bushings. I could probably make you a set... After all the help you've dished out to me and everyone else it'll be on the house. You can make the drawing as crud as you want, I've just never seen the diff drop stuff in person so I don't know what it contains. :beer:

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wouldnt that be pretty simple...i would think u could create 2 plates with 2 holes each for the crossmember part...drill a hole through the crossmember/frame up front and bolt the ears on there or even create a drop bracket that would bolt on from the under side?

 

how much could you drop before killing the U joins on the front drive shaft tho...i would suspect only like 3 or 4 ins whats their binding angle? about 8 or 9 degrees?

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The diff drop we're talking about is a simple round bushing with the center hole located closer to one edge, not centered. That way you can simply change bushings and the diff mounting point is now a little lower; it's simply to ease the angles on the CV's at full droop.

 

Pic of the SLR drop kit:

4wd_diff_lowering_kit.jpg

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wouldnt that be pretty simple...i would think u could create 2 plates with 2 holes each for the crossmember part...drill a hole through the crossmember/frame up front and bolt the ears on there or even create a drop bracket that would bolt on from the under side?

 

how much could you drop before killing the U joins on the front drive shaft tho...i would suspect only like 3 or 4 ins whats their binding angle? about 8 or 9 degrees?

you cant drop the front diff anymore then maybe 5/8". any more and the CV's hit the torsion bars.

 

88, like I said I ran stock UCA and no bumpstops and never binded. how are you able to bind? are you still running those UCA with the bump stops cut off? if so why not just weld some new peices back on them so you dont bind? do you really belive the extra what, .5" of down travel really help you any?

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Yes, the problem I'm experiencing stems from the prior owner of my UCA's, who cut off the bumpstop tabs. My line of reasoning is, why not just drop the diff so it doesn't chafe so bad and be able to have my cake and eat it too? It's just a mod, I don't expect it to make the Pathy much better but I want the chance to try. I'm not advocating everyone else do it, just trying it out myself.

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ohh ok this makes sense...i forgot about the T-bars...i dont really think about this kinda stuff till some1 says something so i just try to think about it without going and crawling under the truck...

 

you could come up with a double knuckled cv with a midship bearing/bushing to get the desired results although i dont think theres a lot of room to work with (maybe 18 ins?)

 

i guess this kinda gets me back to my whole idea of how to get more lift outta a pathy while keeping IFS...you would need a frame...then a sub frame to drop the engine/driveline...and between the frame and body you could have your blocks...but you loose clearance between the axles and ground that you would need to pick up from the tires so over all you manage to have a bigger and better rig

Edited by unccpathfinder
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you can always make room...it just takes a lot of effort...i have to make @!*% fit on these damn school bus chassis' everyday and u would think that with something that big you would have plenty of room but thats not the case its worse than working on the pathy...maybe one day i'll have some time to look at it...i have 2 objectives...

 

make a 3d model of mostly everything on the truck...then using this create a custom suspension or something else cool to make it more versatile but who knows how long all that will take...

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I hate to spoil the fun that y'all are having talking about Diff Drops...but let's try to keep this thread on the topic of the Spool, k?

 

If you want to start a new topic about the Diff Drop, feel free to.

 

I would have split the topic, but there are several posts covering both that would not be right in either topic, by themselves, and splitting the posts would be too much work...:lol:

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