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solid snake
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What year Maxima did you use to get the alty?

It's a 90. What I did find out is, like WD21 from 90-95, the parts are interchangable, so between 86-94 maxima alty should work. I verfied it thru the part# from the checker website. Now you do need to be carefull because the DOHC version of the maxima has a diffrent bolt on pattern than the SOHC. The one you want to use is the SOHC version. The DOHC version puts out 8 more amps IIRC.

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The one I have installed in my truck right now failed to tests :huh:

That's wierd, you were probably thinking the same thing I was thinking then. Cause I was gonna go ahead with the install anyways to test it on the pathy. The guy at the autozone connected the negative lead to the alty's metal casing and not the negative screw. I don't think that would mess up the test, but when I went to checker they connected everything how it goes.

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Anyone know where to find the bj dust boots? I tried autozone, checker, napa, and summit.. couldn't find them. What I was thinking is that the upper bj's are more suspectable to damage when the t-bars are cranked than the lower bj's, due to the angle at which they are set. If this is true, then I can only replace the dust boot, since the grease is coming out of the lower ones already and I can save about $60. Im going to go ahead and replace the tie rod bushings while I'm at it.

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sam it was a quest alty. earlier model 90a iirc. i had to modify the lower mounting bolt as the hole on the 95 pathy wasnt threaded just used a longer bolt with a lock washer and nut combo on the backside. it came out of the 87 so i had to swap pulleys.

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Guest SuperSon
sam it was a quest alty. earlier model 90a iirc. i had to modify the lower mounting bolt as the hole on the 95 pathy wasnt threaded just used a longer bolt with a lock washer and nut combo on the backside. it came out of the 87 so i had to swap pulleys.

Why not go with the 95 quest/voyager alty that puts out way more juice.?Youre going to modify it either ways anyway

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Ok I'm gonna add this one since I need to do it anyway. Changing out the rear main seal, went to a mechanic, got quoted $450.00 for labor cause he has to remove the tranny and some of the suspension. Went to a second shop, and was quoted $250.00 only unbolting the tranny and then unbolt motor from frame. I have been going the the mechanic who quoted me $250.00 for quite sometime and I do trust his work. I would do it myself, but lack of tools, experiance and a engine hoist.

Edited by solid snake
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