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LF axle


davekell
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I been getting quotes over 3 hours to do this, since i dont have a compresser or lift or garage i dont want to do it in my back yard lol, any one in spokane wanna make 100-150 bucks? or im gonna wait till summe r:( hehe.

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I would rate the difficulty of this job as 2 wrenches (out of 5). Not as difficult as you might think.

 

If you find changing your oil to be easy, you can handle this. It is just a matter of removing a number of bolts in a sequential manner and then putting them all back.

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its not the difficulty! its doing it in my backyard lol. i got no problem changing it out if i had a garage and a impact. its kinda cold atm ya know lol.

Edited by davekell
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Don't you have a sliding glass door on the patio? Send the wife out for a night with the girls and just nose that baby in there. Only need to get her a couple feet into the house... A couple blankets to seal off the gaps....

 

Might want to put some plastic down first as well!

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its super easy. remove 6 lug nuts. remove 6 hub studs. remove snap ring. remove 6 bolts on cv/axle. remove 4 upper balljoint bolts. remove shock. and the axle will slide right out. new one in. put the 6 bolts that hold the CV on. shock. put jack under lower balljoint and jack up till you can get the 4 upper balljoint bolts back in. put snap ring back on. hub and 6 studs. and then put tire on. give yourself 2 hours for the first time. after that you will be able to do them in less then an hour.

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the hardest part was seperating the tie-rod. I couldn't seperate the ball joints so I just unbolted then from the control arms.

Ooooo... you did it the hard way!

 

I discovered Trailbosses method as well. If you remove the upper balljoint (remove the four bolts, not the stud) and turn the steering all the way to the opposite side, you can get just enought space to remove the axle without fussing with the tie rod (or alignment).

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I discovered Trailbosses method as well. If you remove the upper balljoint (remove the four bolts, not the stud) and turn the steering all the way to the opposite side, you can get just enought space to remove the axle without fussing with the tie rod (or alignment).

 

yes that is the way easy way to do it...

 

 

also a $4.99 cheap pair of snap ring plyers with slide on adapters for 45 and 90 degrees from napa will make it easier...only advise for those is duct tape the damned adapters on the pegs so its managable and doesnt slide off the pins when u're trying to remove it...

 

if you have manual (auto can work too but takes a lil more effort ie spin the wheel a lil ways then they click in and if u go the other direction too far they click out) lockers

 

but you can lock the manuals and put ure wrench on the stud into the front axle and be sure to spin each side the correct way and use the LCA and front X member as a resting spot for the wrench and slowly turn the tire and it will help you greatly in busting those lil bastards free...

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