milehighcowboy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 ok so i got scammed big time. long story short they tried to pick up my truck without me ever getting the money. they said they had already gotten it. i did get two people arested though lol. bastards. any way i had my neighbor look at her. and since my engine was not turning over at all when we were trying to get it too. no sounds at all from the engine bay area. we are confident its a thrown rod. apparently i am loosing more oil than i thought and it was empty or something any way i am not sure. i need to know how hard it is to fix the problem. and a cost analysis. take a guess. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Dunno about repairing it, but if you look around you could prolly find a replacement engine to throw in for ~$500 or so. Check some other Nissan boards or craigslist.com and ebay for people parting one out in your area or try one of those Japanese engine importer places. I got my trans from one of them for $450 and its working great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 hmmm... if you have a thrown rod, there are probably other issues as well. You 'could' pull the front diff and drop the cross member to get the oil pan off to access your main bearings and connecting rods. Once you get to them, it's not a real big deal (remove bearing caps, pop rod off crank, slide out piston, fix/replace, compress rings and reinsert piston, reconnect rod/bearings, ...) once you get to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 fix/replace, compress rings and reinsert piston, reconnect rod/bearings, ...) once you get to it. You have to take the head/s off in order to get the compressed rings in. You can't do it from underneath. It is a big job to do it properly and not one for a beginner in mechanics. Salvage what you can. heads, timing cover etc. then throw the motor out! It will be cheaper and easier to put another one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 sorry... thought you could get the pistons in from underneath. I've had everything disconnected when I replaced my main bearings and had to drill out an oil hole in the connecting rod but I did it with the pistons still in. I'd still pull the pan and dig around from underneath before commiting to an engine swap. You should be able to see if you have a broken rod from underneath (and if there's metal chunks in the pan when you remove it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 ok so i am still looking at like the cost of an angine and then the cost to put it in right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 again... if you're sure that your problem is a throw rod or other catastrophic event in the block. I got a complete engine for about 700 and installed it myself. I have no idea what a garage would charge to swap one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 (edited) ok so i am still looking at like the cost of an angine and then the cost to put it in right? It's your call. It is a risk I would not take just personaly. As k9 eluded to earlier, if thats gone.... what else is about to go? If you are going to pull the donk down with a view to repairing it then may I suggest that you do a complete recondition. That way you will have a brand new motor that will well outlast the car. You will not find yourself doing the same thing a couple of weeks later either. You can even oversize the bore and throw in a decent cam to get those extra ponies that a Nissan V6 lacks. To do the work yourself (au prices) will set you back about $1400. Thats new everything. From decking the heads to putting in your brand new oversized flat top pistons. Equate that with time off the road too. At least a couple of weeks.... The oil loss you talked of? The rod hasn't tried to exit the block has it? Ooops! I think I missed read your reply. You will learn how to replace you engine when you take your buggered one out. It isn't a hard job to do and you will save heaps. I was about 15 when I started working on cars. In those days I used alot of masking tape and ink. I used to lable everything I removed, all wires, leads and hoses, EVERYTHING. That way I knew where things went when I replaced things. That is the biggest lesson when working on a car IMO. Do that and you can never get it wrong. Sometimes I wonder why today, I didn't keep that habit up. -thnkboutit- Edited January 5, 2007 by Vsicks Pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 (edited) VSicks makes an excellent point (never thought I'd ever say that ) label everything... if you have a digital camera, that'll help too. If you're gonna pull it, make sure you do as much maintenence on the replacement as possible. Things like the t-belt, cam seals, water pump, plugs, etc. all those things that are real knuckle-busters if it's in the engine bay. Edited January 5, 2007 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 VSicks makes an excellent point (never thought I'd ever say that ) label everything... if you have a digital camera, that'll help too. If you're gonna pull it, make sure you do as much maintenence on the replacement as possible. Things like the t-belt, cam seals, water pump, plugs, etc. all those things that are real knuckle-busters if it's in the engine bay. I'll have to agree with you too k9. Now please excuse me while I......... OOPS! Too late :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 so engine replacement is a good idea. i like the trucks suspension and what not and if i buy a new truck i can have this one to learn on and work on her. beef it up and make me a good work horse for wheeling. now to find an engine. ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Look for a 3.3 and swap your heads and intake onto it. Voila, .3L extra displacement and more power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted January 5, 2007 Share Posted January 5, 2007 Like 88 said, make sure your heads are good and use the 3.3 block... Kinda wish I had done that... But my 91 will still stomp on my 95 so I cant really complain to much... When I got my new motor I stripped it down, new Head Gaskets, new exhaust studs, headers, and used the intake up from my old motor... Fun little project Took me almost a year to put the extra $$$ into the fun budget... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 5, 2007 Author Share Posted January 5, 2007 wait huh? what are you guys saying? i gained about nothing from that. sorry dummy mechanic here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdpathy Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 (edited) They are saying to use the new engine out of the 96 + pathies which is a 3.3 liter instead of the 3.0 that are supplied with the gen 1 pathies, so that you get the extra power and displacement. I think that is what they said but correct me if I am wrong. Edit: they also said to swap the Head gaskets (or manifold????) and the air intake I think sssh Edited January 6, 2007 by Jdpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 They are saying to use the new engine out of the 96 + pathies which is a 3.3 liter instead of the 3.0 that are supplied with the gen 1 pathies, so that you get the extra power and displacement. I think that is what they said but correct me if I am wrong. Edit: they also said to swap the Head gaskets (or manifold????) and the air intake I think sssh Nearly there. Keep your heads and inlet minifold from your old engine. When you get the later model engine, remove the heads and inlet manifold (on sell them perhaps and make some money back??) so you can put you old ones on. I am assuming that the old manifold and heads are used to make the larger capacity engine compliant to the wd21 pathy exhaust and computer management. P.S. You have to remove the inlet manifold to get the heads off anyway. And do all of this work BRFORE you put the engine in. You will be suprised at how easy a job it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 (edited) ok wow that makes so much more sence lol. thanks guys. ben side note------I am still trying to sell the truck. but am wanting to fix her to have as a dayly driver kinda thing. but i am going to make the attempt to fix it. (at least i tried) but all non essential parts i am willing to remove and sell you all. (interior) so if you need something let me know. Edited January 6, 2007 by milehighcowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dernt Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Why are you 'convinced' it is a thrown rod? From this discussion, it hardly sounds like you have the mechanical prowess to diagnos such a problem by trying to turn the car over with the starter. Did you try to crank the motor by hand? You might save yourself a bunch of money by having a mechanic examine the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milehighcowboy Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 it was my neighbor who is a mechanic and my grandfather who said that it would most likely be a thrown rod. i would never say what it is for a fact. and if you wanna send me 100 bucks to get it looked at then i will take it to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 (edited) Did you try to crank the motor by hand? take the fan and what not loose and put a socket on the crank (tranny in N) its better to check early than later if something is trashed... i really regret not grinding the piece of metal off of my piston that fell in the cylinder nad put the head back on to see if it killed the noise B4 doing my swaps...after inspection i could have just ground off that tiny piece of metal (the knocking was it actually hitting the head) and i would have saved me these 10ish months of 2 swaps (although im very pleased with my 95 dash swap) but i still havent finished that... it sounds like ure on a budget so something you can do can always help out...and if ure not mechanically inclined...if its fubared then its a great way to learn without worrying too much on breaking something... (i mean u can still mess up other things but it limits everything) another thing u might can do...fill her up with oil and try to get her to turn over...(make sure the plug is magnetized also u might want to strain the oil or run a magnet thru the drained oil to see if it didnt settle to the plug...then drain it and see if u get any metal shavings/chunks...i'd imagine the thrown rod would leave some sort of mess behind... Edited January 7, 2007 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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