Guest puptent Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 (edited) I recently bought an 88 Pathfinder, it has the V6 and auto. Checked it out after bringing it home, I noticed it had a new water pump, the plugs were severely carbon fouled and the cap and rotor were bad among other things. When starting I had to press the gas pedal about 1/4 of the way to get it started. once I got it going it seemed like it was running on 4 cylinders or something. So far I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, air filter, pcv, and fuel filter. It still runs the same. I checked for spark and and got it at all 6 cylinders. I think the timing is ok but I havnt been able to check that thoroughly because it wont stay running long enough for me do it. Like I mentioned before it had a new water pump, is it possible that the timing belt is off? There doesnt seem to be any abnormal noises coming from the motor. So what am I missing? Vacuum lines seem to be in good order. Should I do a compression check? Is it possible for a blown head gasket to cause this? Am I correct? to assume that the valves are not adjustable? Any help would be appreciated Edited August 29, 2006 by puptent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 if you have a blown head gasket then you'd most likely have mixing of liquids (oil/coolant) might want to run ecu codes (sticky in how to in the garage) MAP sensor and CPS come to mind right away also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
513yj Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 i brought home about the same thing and had the same running status runs funny lacks power and all that. i replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and still nothing. the problem was it was out of time and with a simple 10 mm bolt on the dizzy, turn it while running and see what happens, mine looked unfooled around with but it runs great now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 Now that you have done the fun things, get a Timing Light on it and the ECU Codes. When I could not keep mine Idling I had one of the boys start it up, and controled the idle from under the hood myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest puptent Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 (edited) I tried turning the distributor already, not much difference. If I can get it running long enough Ill do it with the timing light, but Im definitely checking the ECU. I forgot to mention that the engine pops and sputters through the throttle body when attempting to start. It sounds like a timing issue the way it turns over thats why I was asking about the timing belt. Edited August 29, 2006 by puptent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 When I put my 91 back together it was dead nuts per the book on the timing, belt, alignment marks and the dizzy.... It ran like $hit, get the timing light on it and you will know for sure. Popping throught the TB sounds like timing is +15 degrees or so. You have a new Rotor? Look real close at it, does it show signs of the spark coming off of the trailing edge? Mine did, I know I was dead nuts on the T-Belt so I popped the distributor up and adjusted that... Timing light confirmed I was +15 on the timing. Highly recomend running the ECU codes and putting a timing light on it before making any adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest puptent Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 Well after doing the timing which was off quite a bit, running the ECU codes Ive determined that its got a blown head gasket. The only code I got from the ECU was engine coolant temperature sensor. I filled the empty radiator up with water, got it running and watched the temp guage go all the way to hot within 10 minutes. Checked the radiator..empty. Also being that its 75 degrees out right now and the exhaust is pouring out steam like its 30 below was the other clue. Funny though there is no mixing of oil and water like almost every other blown headgasket Ive dealt with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 So its running fine now??? Out side of it drinking water??? Did you Burb it?? Someone else on here had this happen... Slick??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 you sure there are no other leaks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest puptent Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 No it still runs the same, pretty sure its not leaking anywhere else. I also found out that the previous owner over heated it then replaced the waterpump thinking that would fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 ok, so it still runs like crap and you reset the timing to 13-15 degrees below TDC? Water pump replaced by previous owner... Mechanic install or Do it yourself? Thermosat replaced? Was the timing belt and tensioner replaced? Have done a compression check? I know lots of questions, but we are not there with you, need to make sure we have good info before making suggestions that impact your cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 The aluminum/cast iron match does not like overheating at all. Since you are loosing water make sure you check the oil. If is milk chocolate brown then you know you have a head problem. The other potential is for the water to go straight out the exhaust. This should steam clean the plugs to a perfect shine. You should also see moisture vapor out the tailpipe like a cloud. If none of these then it is the distributor. Pull it and advance the timing by one tooth. If it is the head I can line you up with inexpensive gaskets to repair it with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 if ure not burning oil...im guessing a busted tbelt previously they replaced it and put a new water pump on it so u could quite well run off of 4 cylinders...i set the timing in mine to do so when i busted my tbelt and put 1 on to see if i bent valves... try to adjust the cap so it'll run...if u get ti to run pull 1 plug at a time with insulated wires and if it dies or changes RPM then that cylinder is good if it seems the same its dead...u can also run a compression check...and check the oil/coolant to see if they're mixing if ure oil looks milky then head gasket is blown for sure or something interal is busted... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 at this point it sounds like a warped head or busted one or the h-gasket is shot.. since it overheated i almost bet one of the first 2. damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest puptent Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 (edited) I could be wrong but Im pretty sure the timing as far as the distributor goes is close, I started from TDC and tried to get the distributor right, but Im not sure about the timing belt, I havent had time to check on that. I dont know who changed the water pump I just know it wasnt me. I have no idea about the thermostat but it was on my list to check or replace. The oil looks fine though like I said. Ill try a compression check next. Is there a way to adjust the valves? Thanx to everyone for the info so far Edited August 30, 2006 by puptent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 pretty sure there is no valve adjustment. it's been a while since i've been inside the motor though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 ohh yes...our engines vapor lock in a bad way...the way i do mine is fill it up run it till it gets to running temp and top it off periodically with the cap off let it cool completly with the cap off and that works most of the air pockets out sometimes it doesnt but then i just do it again...wish we had air bleeder valves like most other cars have that have cavities to catch the air and bleed it out does your exhaust smell like raw fuel? if so then u know at least 1 cylinder isint firing (burning off the fuel) check all connections of the plug wires and that they actaully seat on the plugs and cap...disconnect battery for like 30 mins to reset ecu (i cant remember if u said ualready did that or not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 (edited) i was too lazy to read everyone's responses.. pull the heads n check for a busted piston like mine Edited August 31, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 ouch...i must have missed that pic slick...even mine with the @!*% welded to the top didnt look that bad...was it smoking really bad or just loosing compression like crazy... but if u say it doesnt run that makes me think broken t belt replaced b/c i def know mine ran off of 4 cylinders and i drove it like that for a good couple miles before i convinced myself i wasnt paranoid anymore that i actually had no power... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 damn uc, read the whole thread from the beginning please!!! it runs but runs like crap, smokes out the tail pipe like a b, he checked timing.. there is more.. read it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Personally I would strip it down to the timig belt, make sure everything is aligned... If it is, then I would pull plug #1 crank it around so you can physically see #1 is TDC... Draw a line down the center of #1 on the cap and onto the Distributor Housing, pop the cap and see if the center of the rotor lines up. Sounds to me that it will not based on your description... Pop the distributor up slowly and reset it so the Line you drew is center of the rotor... Fire it up and put a light on it... Remember as you raise and lower the Distributor the rotor will turn as it is engaging and dis-engaging the gears... I had to do this on my 91 after installing the new JDM engine... Now that we have that fixed you can do a compression test to find the bad cylinder... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 compression test is quick and easy.. start with it. if you have an issue there it won't matter if it's in time or not. and it all seems like you may have an issue there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 compression test is quick and easy.. start with it. if you have an issue there it won't matter if it's in time or not. and it all seems like you may have an issue there. If the T-belt is off the valves will be opening and closing out of order and the compression will be off..... If its on he has to pull all that stuff to pull the heads anyways..... Just my train of thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest puptent Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Thanx everyone, I will check this stuff ASAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 (edited) damn uc, read the whole thread from the beginning please!!! it runs but runs like crap, smokes out the tail pipe like a b, he checked timing.. there is more.. read it. first of thats uncc...and 2nd off using the find funtion i dont find the word smoke in the entire thread until i hit my thread so if u'll so kindly point that out to me i'll read it... not trying to be a jackass or anything ::edit:: and when i say broken t belt i didnt mean the current 1 broke if u read my post it says: m guessing a busted tbelt previously they replaced it and put a new water pump on it so u could quite well run off of 4 cylinders i've been there done that know its possible just trying to give any other suggestions to try and figure it out Edited August 31, 2006 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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