The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I was just thinking, for the subframe blocks. When I was 15 I workeed in a machine shop. For the large dies I used to cut what is called Parallels. Big fat blocks that bolted to the die to mount them to a press. What about just cutting big chunky blocks of aluminum? In the form of a block it will be way stronger than any welded steel, won't corrode (I don't think) can be cut to size perfectly,and still won't be ridiculously heavy. What do you think of that? Man I want this lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) What about just cutting big chunky blocks of aluminum? In the form of a block it will be way stronger than any welded steel, won't corrode (I don't think) can be cut to size perfectly,and still won't be ridiculously heavy. What do you think of that? How would you bolt them on? You would need to be able to access "inside" the volume of the block to get a nut on the end of the bolt and tighten it down. See the lift "block" in this pic: Edited September 20, 2006 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Suprisingly I found a solution similar to what you were talking about. I just happened to find rectangular tube steel in a close enough size that it will work perfect. I'm having a shop mill holes in a couple foot section as we speak and use a bandsaw to divide it up into the blocks. I'm shipping this out to Max for testing soon. Hopefully sometime next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 How would you bolt them on? You would need to be able to access "inside" the volume of the block to get a nut on the end of the bolt and tighten it down. See the lift "block" in this pic: Gotcha, that would be an issue I guess. I bet there is a way though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Suprisingly I found a solution similar to what you were talking about. I just happened to find rectangular tube steel in a close enough size that it will work perfect. I'm having a shop mill holes in a couple foot section as we speak and use a bandsaw to divide it up into the blocks. I'm shipping this out to Max for testing soon. Hopefully sometime next week. So realistically, is this something you think I will be able to throw on my wish list to sant clause this year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 For sure. I'm really planning on sending a kit to Max and some parts to Alex next week (hopefully) and starting everything I need to go through in order to start an LLC. Hopefully by the time that is all finished I'll have a number of kits built and ready to be installed by some happy owners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 For sure. I'm really planning on sending a kit to Max and some parts to Alex next week (hopefully) and starting everything I need to go through in order to start an LLC. Hopefully by the time that is all finished I'll have a number of kits built and ready to be installed by some happy owners. Giddyup. Merry christmas to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Tyler, if you develop a shorter lift (such as 3" instead of 4.5") that would easily combine with the AC springs, I'd probably be interested in jumping on the bandwagon as well. 4.5" is just too tall for me. What are your thoughts on using 5.5-6" lift coils in the rear instead of using spring mount extensions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 Dean, I think that after I finish the 4.5" lift it wouldn't be a problem whatsoever to make a smaller one whether it's a single kit for you or selling them if there is interest. As far as the rear suspension goes, I'd much rather use 5.5" lift springs than a combo of 3" lift springs + spacers. I ordered custom springs for 5.5" of lift but they might still be a few weeks out. At $200 a pair it seems stupid to even be considering using AC springs ($170??) + spacers unless someone already has the AC springs. That's why I'm planning on leaving the rear up to the customer and having several different options although I am no longer considering the idea of stock springs plus spacers after my recent experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Dean,I think that after I finish the 4.5" lift it wouldn't be a problem whatsoever to make a smaller one whether it's a single kit for you or selling them if there is interest. As far as the rear suspension goes, I'd much rather use 5.5" lift springs than a combo of 3" lift springs + spacers. I ordered custom springs for 5.5" of lift but they might still be a few weeks out. At $200 a pair it seems stupid to even be considering using AC springs ($170??) + spacers unless someone already has the AC springs. That's why I'm planning on leaving the rear up to the customer and having several different options although I am no longer considering the idea of stock springs plus spacers after my recent experiences. So you will actually have the 5.5 in. lift springs for the rear, for sale as part of the kit? That's would kick some serious ass. Now, if we were to take the 4.5 kit and combine it with AC's in the front would we need some sort of spacer to level the rear I assume? I'm just exited, all I can think about is the front bumper being at almost chest height (I'm only 5'9" lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 20, 2006 Author Share Posted September 20, 2006 I'm getting excited myself. If you decided to use the AC springs up front, there are two options for the rear. The coils are custom anyways, so I could have them made for 7 or so inches of lift instead. The other option is exactly what you said and wouldn't be horrible...5.5" springs w/ spacers. Hopefully these springs come in soon. It's going to be the slowest part of the kit since I have no way of keeping them in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Cool just keep us posted. It's been awesome seeing this develop from the beginning. It will make it that much better when the lift is actually available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WheelsofFortune Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Tyler, if you develop a shorter lift (such as 3" instead of 4.5") that would easily combine with the AC springs, I'd probably be interested in jumping on the bandwagon as well. 4.5" is just too tall for me. What are your thoughts on using 5.5-6" lift coils in the rear instead of using spring mount extensions? Dean, I'm interested in this as well. The 4.5 always seemed high, to me, according to the pictures I've seen but figured this was the "smallest" body lift for an R50 given the complexity. I also thought it was necessary to lift it at least 4.5" because of our steering problems. Meaning a smaller body lift would not allow for a steering solution to fit/connect onto the existing steering - there just wouldn't be any space. I think snowman_fs and Kieth(system_f) talked about that so 4.5" was necessary. BUT....If I'm wrong then ...why 4.5"....????? :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Steering IS an issue that I had completely forgotten about, but I think it could be modified to work with a smaller lift. To be honest, it really isn't all that big the way it sits right now. It may be because I'm using stock springs + 160# ARB, but it's still 4.5" higher than it WAS. Yesterday I was parked next to a stock F-150 (newer but not new, 2000?) and the bottom of the fenders were the EXACT same height. Maybe I'll change my mind when I get OME springs and realize how much the stock ones were sagging. Would Dean or someone else with a lift measure from the top of the wheel well to the center of the hub? I'd like to compare to my specs and see how much higher I'm sitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselmunk Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 not to throw another problem at ya, but have you thought about relocating/extending the linkage on the load sensing valve for the rear brakes? once you lift it so high, it will drastically reduce brake force to the rear drums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 not to throw another problem at ya, but have you thought about relocating/extending the linkage on the load sensing valve for the rear brakes? once you lift it so high, it will drastically reduce brake force to the rear drums. Oh yeah, and speaking of brakes, don't you need longer brake lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Yes and yes. I've already looked at the rear brake sensing valve but I need to compare it to the stock specs in the FSM. There just *might* be enough adjustment on it to get it back into spec and if not I'll be making something to get it back into spec. As for longer brakelines, I found out they aren't a necessity but if you offroad you should be a longer rear line. The advantage of requiring longer lines from my standpoint is safety and less liability on my part. With longer lines you can put the lines back into their "clips" rather than letting them dangle. It shouldn't be a problem at all tying them out of the way but it's more for me to worry about. The longer rear line is a good idea if you offroad since with all the new found travel the line gets EXTREMELY tight at full flex. It's been fine so far, but not something I want to risk in the middle of a trail 200 miles from home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 (edited) Here's to give everyone an idea how the steering is set up. Keith is an absolute GENIUS for figuring it out and unfortunatly I can't take credit for it. The universal on top connected to the steering box is the Honda joint. The black T piece it connects to was connected to the steering box up top when stock. The splined shaft from the Honda also has to be used to connect the new universal to the T piece. Edited September 21, 2006 by tmorgan4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Tyler I noticed max is using your bus. name as his sig. Is that because he is trying out the lift or something? Just curious. Just a thought: are you going to make any vinyl stickers of your sig pradolift? If so I am willing to advertise for ya and stick one on my R-50...figure it might help get the word out for ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 Thanks man! That's one of the hardest thing I've run into is getting the name out to people that aren't on the boards. I'd definitely get a few stickers made if people are willing to put them on. Max has been helping me with everything. He sent me parts a long time ago to help make the lift from and he's responsible for the forums over on my site. I didn't have a clue how to do it so I left it up to him. No wonder they don't work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Cool, well I have not had a chance to go to your site but will momentarily. And yeah I am willing ot put a sticker on to advertise as long as it is not "too" big. I am willing to put one on the back window or on the top of the front windshield. I think what you have done to help us R-50 owners out is reallly cool. So whatever I can do to help...I'm there. Let me know if and when and what size the sticker will be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Drift Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 When I get this lift I'll definately have my vinyl guy cut me a sticker to go across my tail gate or something with the website on it. I'm all for supporting anyone looking to innovate and help out fellow Pathy owners. We create the aftermarket fellas. Get the word out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 he's responsible for the forums over on my site. I didn't have a clue how to do it so I left it up to him. No wonder they don't work! Ahh...he doesn't either, as he asked me to set them up for him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Ahh...he doesn't either, as he asked me to set them up for him. Well in that case...NIce job Vengeful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I didn't set them up...He asked me to do it, but I didnt have the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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