Maz Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 :help: I had this really weird noise comin goutta the engine thought it was the tranny but it wasn't. Turns out it was the exhuast manifold and it appeared to be missing a stud. Sure enough after removal of the heat sheild I nut and 1/2 a stud fell out. Awesome and of course it has to be the one on the passengerside upper clossest to the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 -bounce- WOOOT! that means it's THORLEY TIME!!!!!!!!! -bounce- -bounce- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Welcome to the Club The Manifold Studs are famous for breaking.... My 95 is currently missing the rear #5 cylinder Stud, When I paid to have it fixed 5 of the 6 studs were broken on the passenger stock Manifold. Being the daily Driver I had to have it fixed fast and at the time was not aware of the Thorleys(Had not found this forum). The passenger manifold was warped about .75" between #1 and # Cylinders. And the Shop was not able to get the last broken Stud out... It is still the daily Driver and I do not have any manifold leaks. Option A: do nothing... down the road this will casue additional issues Option B: repair it stock... Runs the risk of breaking more studs down the road Option C: Replace the Stock Manifold with a aftermark Header Thorley or Pacesetters. Depending on you Mechanical skills you can do this yourself or pay someone to do it for you......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maz Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 Well I am thinkin of getting headers cause I have a trailer I need to pull so any extra horsies would help. So what I am gonna do I think is test some of the others to see if they are broken or not and then take it to the shop and get them to take out the 1 that is. Any ideas?? sound good? Thanks JAmie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 You will like the headers. Go Thorley and be done with it. And if you can squeeze enough out of your wallet to get the ceramic coated, they will help keep underhood temps down on hard pulls. It would probably be quite adequate to replace only the broken studs as the header flanges are thinner and will not apply as much stress so the remaining studs so they would be less likely to fail... BUT, since replacements are cheap and would add a very small percent more to the bill, I would recommend removing and replacing all of them. And if you replace them with the 300ZX studs or grade 10.8 bolts, you can forget about EVER having another break. Well, assuming no gorillas ever overtorque them. The only risk is if any of the unbroken studs were to break when they are being removed. Hopefully, whoever is doing the work knows enough to extract them without breaking. PB Blaster, time, and heat are your friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93PathfinderWA Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 (edited) Option A: do nothing... down the road this will casue additional issues i have had a leak for a while now, around 4,000 miles, what additional problems could there be? Edited August 19, 2006 by 93PathfinderWA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 (edited) More than 1 broken stud..... careful when you loosen the others.... Lots of PB Right now you have a ticking sound when you start it up, but it goes away after the engine warms up..... Biggest problem I had was it would not pass SMOG.... so I moved it to a county with no SMOG requirements.... Edited August 19, 2006 by Casey.T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 LMAO...a guy at work was like WTF is that (i drove us to lunch) and i was like what and laid off the gas and he was like that &^%*@$# chirping...i was like pathfinder 101 exhaust leak...he was like fix that @!*% and i told him to give me 300 for some headers and he laughed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 19, 2006 Share Posted August 19, 2006 i have had a leak for a while now, around 4,000 miles, what additional problems could there be? The air gap in the manifold gasket will draw in outside air (post-combustion) and send it down the exhaust to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor will cause the ECU to read a false "lean" situation and compensate with additional fuel. Your power, gas mileage, and catalytic converter will suffer because of the overly rich condition created by the manifold gasket leak and subsequent ECU compensation. This phenomenon occurs when there is a leak or crack of any kind after the head and before the O2 sensor. And futher more...Thorleys ROCK ;-) Just make sure you follow the retorquing instructions (after following the initial detailed install procedure, retorque after 100 miles, 1 week, 1 month, and then every 6 months thereafter). Once you let a gasket leak for too long, it ruins the gasket, and you have to start all over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93PathfinderWA Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Thanks Eli, someone told me to buy thorleys off of summit racing but the only ones there are for the D21 pickup. Are those the same or do you have to modify them somehow? Did you buy yours from summit racing or somewhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eli Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Thanks Eli, someone told me to buy thorleys off of summit racing but the only ones there are for the D21 pickup. Are those the same or do you have to modify them somehow? Did you buy yours from summit racing or somewhere else? I think I bought my first set from Automotive Customizers (www.4x4parts.com) a looooong time ago, before they offered ceramic coating (so I had them Jet-Hot coated). I warranty replaced them and payed for the ceramic upgrade during my engine rebuild. They had cracked due to broken motor mounts. If you have an automatic transmission, make sure you mention that to the seller, because Thorley now has a kit specifically for automatic (you used to have to have the y-pipe modified). However, you'll need to add 2 u-clamps and some muffler sealant (I think that's what it's called) to the slip joint under the auto trans pan to keep it from leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishead Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 This is too funny. I just got in from pulling out my last broken stud. My advice, find a machinist friend and make him help you. (don't give him beer until he is done though) I borrowed a nice 90degree Makita drill from work, and using a mirror, we were able to drill a 1/8" hole in each broken stud, and work them out with an easy out. If you cannot find an anal machinist that will absolutely make sure to drill exactly in the centre, it would prolly pay to have someone do it. I wanted to pay to have it done, but it was just too much. I was quoted $400 to just change the gasket. If there were any broken bolts, it was going to be extra!!! 5 broken bolts later... I am putting the manifold on right now, but in 6 months (income tax time) I plan on headers. Due to emissions testing in my city, I guess I better stick with a header that has an egr connection, eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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