Both innner CV Boots ripped.

[arctic_mark]

Was wheelin' at the weekend and afterwards found both inner CV boots were ripped. Nice clean cuts too, almost all the way round.

Only thing I can think of is that I was givin' her to get up this soft steep slope, front wheels both came off the ground and landed hard, but not too badly. Otherwise the trail was pretty tame. I've just also recently installed a Calmini 3' suspension lift as well.

 

So, the questions!:-

Is this typical if you jump the front end?

Is this going to happen to me again if I pull the same move?

Is this due to the increased angle over stock on the CV joints pinching the boot?

What's the soultion 'cos I don't want to have to keep replacing my boots every time I wheel her hard!?

 

Hope you can give me some advice.

 

And for the recdord, didn't look like any dirt got in there so I taped one up with duct tape and the otehr I tried one of those split-boopts from AC but it was the wrong size so that got the tape as well.

 

Thanks - Mark

[94extreme]

that's normal on old truck man. just get new boots. AC has them pretty cheap. Autozone does too.

 

it may not look like they got dirt in them but why chance it? the new boots should come with new grease. this is a fairly easy job. there is quite a bit to disasseble though. you'll need to remove the axles and then seperate the joints to remove the old boots and to put on the new ones. clean it out really good and pack it full of the new grease. you should be good to go for quite some time. good luck.

[arctic_mark]

that's normal on old truck man. just get new boots

Yeah, the trucks old but the boots aint, I replaced them about 18 months ago! So that's why I'm thinking they were pinched in the CV joint when the suspension compressed.

Are there any bigger or stronger boots out there?

[TrailChaser]

Best thing to do if those are original cv's is buy some new/rebuilt ones from AZ or Oreilly with the lifetime warranty. It's pricey, but you CAN get a free replacement from torn/ripped boots in the future. Since you have to go thru all the work in taking it out to replace the boot you might as well replace the whole CV.

[94extreme]

~$100 v. ~$20 ea. side though.

[Precise1]

The boots split due to degredation (caustic fluids, salts, etc), temperature (arctic_mark means cld ?) and tension.

Is this typical if you jump the front end?

Is this going to happen to me again if I pull the same move?

Is this due to the increased angle over stock on the CV joints pinching the boot?

What's the soultion

Not sure

Not sure

That contributes, yes

Good boots ?

 

What are the conditions you used them in ? What brand ? No, it's not normal for them to give up the ghost in 18 months.

 

B

[Filthy Luker]

Not sure

Not sure

That contributes, yes

Good boots ?

The correct answers are:

 

Don't jump with Nissan IFS

You must hate your truck

Just how much did you crank yer t-bars? Ever hear of downtravel?

SAS

 

sly

[Dowser]

Any thoughts on Lowering the Front Diff to Compinsate for the CV angle? Anyone?

 

 

Dowser :oops:

[FLApathy]

dont jump your truck, holy crap dont do it, i got about 3 to 4 feet off the ground on day, it handled it perfect but it bent the drivers side tension rod mount, take a look at both tension rod mounts and gussest them and then you can jump it

[88pathoffroad]

You can get a diff drop bushing set from SLR. They cost $150 though. Drops the front diff 5/8" to compensate CV angles when lifted.

 

I'd rather just drop the diff, weld some 3/16" plate over the mounting tabs, drill new holes 1" down and bolt it back in.

 

What if someone were to cut a CV axle halfshaft in half, then weld a sleeve on one side(making sure the shaft stays the same length when compressed) and either spline or hex the opposite side to match the new sleeve...*gasps for breath* ...for a homemade slipshaft in the middle of the CV?

 

What if someone cut out CV spacers to fit the diff flanges that space the axles out a little farther and help reduce angles at full suspension droop? I don't know how thick you would need to go(or want to go as an experiment ) but Chevy IFS lifts come with CV spacers to fix the problem, so I know it's a viable solution.

 

By the way, the inner boots tear first usually cause that's the extension side of the shaft. The CV at the wheel just rotates, it doesn't move in and out.