FUELER
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Posts posted by FUELER
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yeah my highschool girlfriend had those tail lights 10 years ago so ever since then i just feel like rice lights are for girls and people stuck in 1999
but the lift is so bad ass it makes you look right past the tail lights...
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that looks bad ass!!! (except for the tail lights of course but who cares)
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Funy you say that about the tank - come to think of it, i've never put more than about 19 gal in it before. and i've run it really low...or so i thought.
ya man ive ran it so low that it was sputtering and jumping as i pulled in the gas station.... only put 19.5 in there! (supposed to be 21 gal tank?)
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the internet is in fact censored in China. have you not been reading the papers? Google is in major drama with the PRC...
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Yeah ive got bigger rims and tires while my buddy rolls on little bald street rubbers
i should mention ive had a bad O2 sensor for years (after the cat). I thought after the cat was for smog only?? Or could it affect my MPG?
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SO my buddy has a 2000 4runner with 3.4L V6.
The first thing that shocked me with the 4runner is the fuel tank size. He pretty much ran it dry and filled the tank to the brim with only 13.5 gallons.
A freakin Honda Civic has an (almost) 12 gallon gas tank.
Then, we calc'd the MPG. Freeway driving at 75 mph, he clocked 271 miles on that 13.5 gallons, which equals an impressive 20 mpg
Now my QX4 has a 21 gallon tank (which, in the past 6 years of ownership, i have only managed to get about 19.5 in there) and i get about 290 miles to the tank. 14.8 mpg similar freeway driving.
WHY DOES THE NISSAN GET SUCH WORSE MILEAGE????????
Maybe i should have bought a 4runner.... but the idea of bolting on cookie cutter parts and having the same SUV as everybody else makes me cringe...
Your thoughts on this??
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ya, swerving while traveling at 70 mph after a concert, sounds like safe driving to me.
And ya you have to be careful above 70 in ANY suv
i think that person sounds like a moron who expected an SUV to handle like a car. Too many people make that mistake.... riding cars rear bumpers, swerving, going above 75.... always gonna have problems if you drive like that.
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nice writeup!
youve inspired me to do the same.
How do you get the studs out??
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HOLY.... that is AWFUL!
Thank god for southern california weather !!
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its done and the WD is gone from my drivweay!! I want to thank everybody here for all the great advice and help!!
The only problem, was that i indexed the anchor arm too low.... so now the anchor arm kinda sticks out from under the crossmember, by about 3/4 of an inch.
Well he doesn't rock crawl, and i was working for free, so we left it like that, shouldn't be a problem.
THANKS AGAIN ALL YOU GUYS I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!!
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ya make sure the contacts are clean and touching eachother. There are contacts from the bulb base to the printed circuit board, and there are contacts inside the bulb base for the lite bulb.
Do not replace with LED if you think they will last longer - they won't. I bought LED's with lifetime warranty and ive had three go out already. They usually start to blink and flicker and then they fail completely. Not worth it.
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Check a trailer supply - i think i paid about 200 or so for my hitch brand new, and the install was free. Might be worth it instead of spending all that time and gas for a used one, and then installing it yourself...
They just had some worker dude bolt it up, he did it by himself, didnt have to remove the bumper. But he did have to remove the stock tow hook brackets (the tow hitch goes in its place) its just three big bolts on each side.
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does it matter whether im cranking the nut on top or the bolt on bottom?
(i plan on cranking the bolt with a 19mm socket) with a 19mm wrench holding the nut on top.
Sorry for the dumb questions.
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whatever you do, make sure it's your final decision cause it's a lot of labor to swap them springs out!
I have the old man emu springs, i think they somewhere around the 35mm mark and i'm happy with them. And with such a mild lift you don't need camber bolts or warn hubs.
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Sweet, thanks JamesRich!!
One more question - when i'm sliding the anchor arm onto the torsion bar (with nut backed all the way off), should I have the truck lifted off the ground or should i have where the wheels touching the ground at "normal" ride height ?
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Thanks precise and Koveman. Precise, you don't have to take a pic, i'll use the other side as a reference since it seems to be properly installed.
So, to re-install, I loosen the anchor adjusting nut to the max, (so that the anchor is at its most extreme angle) then i slip the anchor over the t-bar and start cranking the nut down? How do i know when to stop cranking?
Also, do you know if the anchor with retaining ring installed will slip thru the hole on the crossmember, when not under any tension, or will i have to put the anchor thru the crossmember first and then install retaining ring?
Thanks in advance. We ordered the new anchor, waiting til Thursday to install.
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stripped enough for ya??? Luckily the splines on the torsion bar are still 100%
It looks like the torsion bar only goes in like half an inch, is that normal?
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updates with pics...
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koveman, im glad you find that funny. Im sorry i have zero knowledge of torsion bar suspension, learning as i go. Plus i need to get this lowrider WD out of my driveway!!!
Thanks redpath,
i will post pics in a few mins, hopefully they will show what i mean...
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UPDATE sorry, the torsion bar is NOT snapped off. the rear anchor point is loose in the crossmember, but the bolt that holds it in (very long bolt that points up) is still intact, just very loose by inch) but still has nut on top.
Is it possible that the rear anchor point might have worked its was loose and caused the t-bar to pop out??
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Thanks dude. Yup just checked, the torsion bar is snapped off at the very rear where it mounts to crossbrace!!
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driving the desert today, BANG suddenly the drivers side suspension is dropped like a lowered Pathfinder and riding on the bumpstop. Still driveable to a point. Torsion bar not connected to anchor in the rear.
Nut that holds anchor to crossmember, is loose by an inch but intact with nut on it, and holding anchor loosely.
Where does one "crank" (tighten) the torsion bars? At the front or rear? Its dark out now but I want to have an idea what to look for tomorrow.
Thanks in advance
rear connection of front torsion bar
anchor not held in place.
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well when you get a "4 wheel alignment", they use the rear as a reference point... but you can only adjust the fronts (to line up with the rears)
Sfd Finally Installed
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
im loving the lift... hey whats up with the rear fender flare... you trim it or something?