magregor

I had to hack the floor to get the bolts out as I had to lift the body off the frame about 2 ft. to rebuild it...I had to cut the bolts as they were rusted so bad...

Then really it doesn't matter if I am going to drill out the rear bolts and use SAE bolts anyways...especially to save about 50 bucks

Found another for '86-'90 at JC Whitney for $130...Can someone tell me what the difference would be and would they work...per say?

Would there be much difference between the kits? I am sure the number of blocks and length of bolts, etc would be the same wouldn't they? I don't know, so I guess that would be a question...

I was poking around the net and found a 3" lift kit from Jegs for $88 bucks!! only thing description says is that the bumper brackets are included... Just thought I would let everyone know who didn't! http://www.jegs.com/i/Performance+Accessor...4/4053/10002/-1

if you drill them and tap fittings in, use a decent center punch to mark before you drill and put a dob of grease on the area where you are drilling so you won't lose any filings in the new ball joint/tie rod. The grease will catch the filings and also reduce the heat from friction of drilling. Spray some WD40 in the hole (holding the part upside down so any filings run out) after you drill and it should help blow some of the access filings out of the hole. There are grease fittings that you can get that don't have threads on them (just tap them on with a socket that will fit over the nipple).

I wonder if a dent puller-type sliding hammer would be good enough...I have lots of brass drifts (I inherited all of my father's tools...he was a heavy duty mechanic for 40 years and now has a desk job)...I could rig up a puller on the axle hub and fab a fastener to the puller I suppose. I guess it is to Nissan this week and pick up an axle seal :-)

I have the rear end out of the truck and sitting on some blocks with all drums and brake parts off :-) I am in the middle of a frame up restore on the beast, so I guess this would be a good time to replace the seal...I guess after welding the entire frame (completely rusted out), an axle seal is a pi$$ hole in the snowbank Just wanted to make sure I didn't need a press to separate the axle from the outer bearings to get at the grease seal...thanks guys :-)

Do I need any special tools to replace the rear axle seal? I look through the manual and see all these special tools and even a press! well, I am sure like most of us backyard mechanics, we don't have such extravagant tools, so if anyone has had success in changing the axle seals, can you post some advice? Thanks

Know where I can get aftermarket body panels for it? Mainly the rear quarter panel on the passenger side. I can fab the floor pans myself, but I am not too sure of myself fabricating the rear quarter panel (but I can if I have to).

Hey guys, just thought I would post to celebrate a long winter's work on rebuilding the complete frame on my Pathy! I started it in November and have been grinding, patching and welding from front to back...now just a couple holes in the floor and I can set her back on the mounts! (after a GOOD undercoating and cleaning up of the underside of the body of course!) Cheers! Pathy Resto Pics

I live basically on the Quebec side of the Ottawa River. I work in Ottawa, but live in Gatineau...only a 10 minute commute (when there is no traffic)... As far as the measurements go, I see in the pics that the crossmember is roughly +- 1/2" away from the Coil Spring Saddle. I suppose I could put the rear end in and mount the pivots in place, position the crossmember on the frame and fully compress and extent the axle to make sure it moves freely...the only issue is the "dog-tracking" if I don't line it up properly and equally on both sides. The truck isn't going to see much pavement, but it would be nice if I did decide to put it on the road, it would be going straight!

That is FANTASTIC!!! I wish my frame looked like that! Hopefully when it is done, it will resemble something more than holes and rust flakes! Thanks VERY much for the pics, it gives me more confidence in where to place the crossmember.

Thanks jpawela I am new to Nissan trucks and premature rust on frames, but not to fabricating and repairing...I have never seen a frame on a truck go like this before! The rest of the truck is in really good shape, so I hate to scrap it for a few bad spots...I have the body about 12 inches off the frame so I can get at everything and do the job right the first time. I hear these trucks are pretty tough otherwise. Thanks Again

I was wondering if anyone with a '95 Pathy could post some pics of the rear section of the frame (4 dr)? The area most important is from the body mount in front of the rear wheel to the cross-link behind the spring saddles... I am rebuilding the frame on mine and the crossmember for the rear-end pivot links broke clear of the frame. I have boxed in and repaired most of the frame, but I don't want to weld the crossmember in the wrong spot and throw the rear-end alignment out, etc.