k9sar
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Posts posted by k9sar
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Dang.. that don't look too good Repack. Definately something to take care of before it rots out totally. I did a similar floor patch on an old galaxy 300. We killed the rust with Naval Jelly, smeared it with roofing cement (great tar content) then pop-rivited sheet aluminum over for support. Underneath, we applied some thick undercoat to keep the water out. If it's under the seat, it doesn't have to be pretty.... kinda like a cheap date
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Pep Boys sucks. Period.
I definately agree. -
I also have a 95 SE w/ offroad pkg and I have not noticed any problems with the rear suspension (except when I loaded 60 or so concrete blocks in it).
I'm curious about the 'cracks' as well. I'll look under my seats and see what looks normal. -
excessive positive camber. An alignment should fix it.
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with respect to aftermarket replacement, the Pathfinder and pickup (2 or 4wd) have the same upper and lower control arms. I do not know about OEM but I would guess it's the same answer.
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I have BFG AT/KOs and they are fine. There are a lot of more aggressive tires out there but there are a lot of boring radials too. I got them because they had a respectable tread (which I have been putting to the test with all the rain we have had around here lately) and they certainly have the capability to sling a roostertail of mud. I never worry about the teadwear warrenty since I usually tear the sidewall out or similar before they wear out on their own. The reason I chose them over some of the other offroad tires???? simple. I needed a set of 4 and they were only about $100 each installed.
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Outside shoulder wear on a single tire usually indicates an excessive positive camber problem. Underlying causes may include a broken or sagging spring (measure ride height on both sides), a bent strut or spindle, a mislocated strut tower or engine cradle, a collapsed control arm bushing or a bent control arm. As for the shake... if balancing and alignment doesn't help, check your motor mounts and possibly tranny mounts. A broken motor mount will cause this and the shakes will be most predominant during accelleration (but not necessarily from start). I had a previous car with a broken mount and it was fine until about 45mph when it began to shake. If I took my foot off the gas, it would settle down but come right back as I accellerated. Good luck and don't forget to post when you find the solution.
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perhaps she's just thirsty. Is your radiator level low? I never trusted that the exchange to/from my resevoir actually worked properly. My level stays the same but due to a small leak at my water pump, I lose some fluid from the system. Not sure what to suggest here except try to isolate the resevoir from the radiator and see if it's a leak in your system or in the actual resevoir tank.
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probably the only part you haven't tried replacing yet.
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I asked them via email at the same time I asked if they would really fit. They didn't offer mfg info but didn't seem to intentionally withold it either. If I knew who made them, I'd contact them directly for the fit question. I couldn't care less who I got them from as long as the price was reasonable. I guess I'll use the direct approach and give them a phone call tomorrow.
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I have been informed by AC that my 95 Pathfinder with automatic transmission can be fit with a set of headers that they sell which are listed as Triple Nickle Plated Headers for 90-95 Pathfinder with Manual trans. Of course, these are the most expensive ones they list for the 90-95 pathfinders. Interestingly enough, they list regular and ceramic coated headers for my pathy with Auto Trans (part nums PPMH1197 and PPMH1197C). Does anyone know if they make these themselves? If not, who the mfg is? Has anyone had any experience putting any of these on a pathy with an auto?
I'm fishing here... gotta get rid of my exhaust manifolds!
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Have you checked your ECU code for the reason the engine light came on? Even though it goes off, I believe it retains the last code that it detected. I had a fuel injector leak that would cause my engine light to come on for awhile. It wouldn't affect performance though, so I doubt that is your problem.
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I use FRAM because I was able to buy in bulk and reduce the cost.
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The hissing is definately a radio problem. To fix it, turn that little black knob on your stereo system clockwise until the noise goes away. Note: this aslo works on tire-hum, singing u-joints, nagging wives and girlfriends, etc
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three words.....
AFTER MARKET MANUAL
Steve... you're starting to sound like a broken record
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The cam seals etc are recommended simply because you're gonna be in there anyway. It's a PITA to get at them so it's a good idea to do preventive maintenance on the cheap parts and reduce the labor involved if, for some reason, they decide to fail.
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I picked up a pair of rotors from a local Carquest dealer for $35 each. There were ones available from NAPA for $26 but I figure they would warp the first time you really got them hot. carpartsplace.com has Brembo rotors for $50 or so with free shipping.
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yea. With the auto-locking front hubs, the rotor just slips over them and bolts on.
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... and don't forget to top off your blinker fluid, right 88?
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I wish someone would fab-up a bunch of crossover pipes for our year w/ AT. I'm not equipped for any custom exhaust work and I'm frellin' tired of these manifolds.
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I've found that shops are notorious for spinning up their air pressure to get lug nuts off and use the same forse to put them back on. I've had to use a 4 foot pipe on my lug wrench to get them off one time. Whenever I take my vehicles in for inspection, I make sure to tell them to knock the pressure down and torque the nuts they way they should be. When they are sone, I grab my wrench and loosen one lug. If it's too tight, I make them redo all of them. It is typically accompanied by a meeting with the shop manager an a story about how my wife wouldn't be able to get them off if she ever got a flat.
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There appears to be something called a clutch drum. I noticed it in the AT section of my service manual but was on my way out to dinner so I did not look further into it.
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sorry... I know mainly the 90-95 era pathy. If there was no significant change in the trans when they went with the new body, I can dig through my books and see if there is anything that could be called a 'drum thingie' and let you know.
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Excellent points. I was not in a position at the time to do any of the work myself. I 'dropped off' my entire vehicle at a small trans shop near me that has done work for friends and family in the past. They said they'd pull it apart and see what's going on and give me a call. They would come up with the cheapest solution of either replacing what's bad in mine or buying a used one, ripping it open and replacing any parts it needs (if any). The prices actually came within a hundred bucks or so of each other so I chose to continue with mine since I knew it's history. I mistyped the price, it was actually $1570 ($1600, not $2600) which included a very thorough inspection of all the tranny components (while it was open), replacement parts, labor, a 5k break-in period re-open and recheck and a 20,000 mile warranty. For a long time, I had a box in my garage that contained everything that got replaced except the TC. That was a little too bulky for me to hide from my wife who nags me about not being able to pull her van into the garage. The damage I had was obvious. I didn't have to rely on someone's word that 'this is bad'. I completely avoided the larger chains like AAMCO and Cottman since they seemed to dwell on how fast they could do the work as opposed to how well and how long they will stand behind it. Granted, if you want a quick turnaround, don't go to a small shop but this one was extremely thorough.
Tune Up and Timing Belt--Pep Boys?
in The Garage
Posted
I'm amazed that they even knew how to turn on a computer.