k9sar
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Posts posted by k9sar
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Hi all... Seems that my 95 SE has started some undesirable behavior. When I first start it up in the morning, it seems sluggish. If I hit the gas (even lightly), the engine bogs down like it's choked. It coughs and sputters and tries to die. I can nurse it to health with gentle pressure on the gas and a lot of prayer but this is getting annoying. After driving a few hundred yards, it seems to have cleared up and runs fine for the rest of the day. Thoughts?
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I rarely shift mine from Auto to Power. The one time that it's essential is when climbing a long hill, you may slow down enough to bog-down the engine. Having it set to power will keep it in a lower gear longer (higher RPMs) and could avoid reaching that 'should I shift or not' point in the auto trans.
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jumped from 1.70 to 1.96 in just 1 week. Bastards! :furious:
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http://www.Nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/
You can download a full factory manual from this website, I do believe. You hafta pay for a short-term subscription for it, but save the info after downloading it, and you're golden.
If anyone happens to have or buys a subscription to the techinfo, I'd love to have a set of tech service bulletins that apply to the 95's. I got some of them downloaded from a site before it got yanked off the web and I haven't been able to find another source that won't cost be $$$$
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For 95, there was not a full service manual available. What you want is the 94 manual (about 2 inches thick) and try to get your hands on a 95 update (black cover, about 1 inch thick which covers updates for 94 hardbody and Pathfinder and new stuff for 95 hardbody and pathfinders). The majority of the changes between 94 and 95 are minor (torque specs, perhaps slightly different wiring updates, etc). I have yet to find anything in the 95 manual that I absolutely needed when I worked on my pathy. If you score a 94 book, you should be fine but I am always willing to offer my assistance in looking for updates in the 95 manual if you are going to do a job and would like to know if any update info exists there.
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Now can you come up with a great cup holder for a manual Pathy? I'm out of ideas.
My setup consists of "Here honey, hold this for me while I drive"
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I was heading up a newly formed K9 Search and Rescue organization in southern New Mexico and I needed something to get around the desert/mountains and carry dogs and gear.
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Blue Man Group - Audio
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I find it funny that any of you guys would keep driving your rigs with the strong smell of gas ...
mine only had a smell of gas when I first started the engine on really really cold mornings. I figure that if it caught fire, I'd at least be warm.
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To/from work in heavy traffic gets me about 17.5. I pull close to 20 driving flat out highway
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My wife was driving along the inside of a long sweeping curve when some idiot in a Dodge Neon turned in front of her from the oncoming lane. She swerved towards oncoming traffic and tatoo'd the guy in the rear passenger side door. Seriously messed up his car but my pathy just needed a little fender work (the paint got chipped) a new bull-bar and a set of tires (mine were flat-spotted from skidding). The insurance companies wanted to make us at fault since technically she did hit him near the rear end of his vehicle. Lots of factors at play that I painstakenly documented with testamonies and pictures. Turns out that he was turning, across a double yellow line (illegal), to pull into the grass (illegal), behind his wife's car which was in the grass facing the other direction after having sideswiped a truck because she was on her cell phone and not paying attention. I'm sure that the guy was looking at his wife's car (to his left) instead of the oncoming traffic (to his right) when he chose to have a brain-fart and pull across the lane. After lengthy discussions with the insurance companies, communications stopped. Turns out that his agent quit her job and just wrote that the file was closed and threw it back in the drawer. I got tired of screwing around so we went to court and I easily won... all repair and replacement costs, recovery of my deductable, all court costs, all medical bills (my won was 1yr old and in the truck at the time), all rental car costs, compensation for my salary for time I was out of work dealing with these isues, and even got a written apology from the guy's insurance company for their mishandling of the claim. He did not make out too well since he had 2 wrecked cars in one day which were both at fault. Can you say "triple your insurance rate"?
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any members near there wanna take a drive and let us know the scoop?
If they do exist, I wouldn't mind picking up a spare and making it a project truck. -
You should be fine with the stock cooler. I have 130K on mine now with no issues. If you daughter is going to be moving to the desert or doing a lot of off-road or towing then I would add a cooler upgrade. For the carolinas, I don't think it'll be a problem.
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I have one of those heavy 20 ft tie-down chains that they use on heavy equipment. I found it on a dirt road in New Mexico while I was out playing. It has seen lots of use during the winters around here.
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you simply grab that shifter next to the normal one and move it from 2H to 4H. I believe there is a speed restriction on when you can do it but I'll double check. To go to 4L, you must have the tranny in N, push down on the shifter and move it into 4L. Look at the drivers side visor for the instructions (unless that card is missing). To get out of 4WD, stop, shift back to 2H and go in reverse for about 10 meters to disengage the hubs. Your little green tranny diagram on the dash may not go out until you start forward again but you should be able to tell that you're in 2H if the front end picks up when you gun it
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we just had a local station 'fight back' (their words, not mine) and sell for 4 hours at .99/gal. Normal price floats around 1.70 currently and 1.75 at surrounding stations. and yes, I was there to fill-up for a buck-a-gallon
My brother is in San Diego and when I told him what I paid for gas, I think he started to cry. 
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Welcome to our HAPPY group
Is that an SE or LE? Nice low miles for a 94, do we believe it? I have a 95 SE and the full set of service manuals for 94 and 95. If I can be of any assistance, pls let me know. -
My wife was free when I got her but I've been paying for her ever since.
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nice.
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check your connectors to the alarm module under your drivers seat. If they are seated properly, pull them and inspect for bent pins etc. When you arm the system, you should hear a single crisp tone. Unlock is a double beep. If you arm the system while a door is still open, you will get a single *blat* instead of a beep. Be sure this difference in tone occurs. I have heard of several problems where a sensor is bad or a pin is bent and the alarm thinky you have an open door or something and won't arm passively either.
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I have a similar fuel smell when I first get in start it when it's cold out. It has since gone away with warmer weather. I suspected it was a fuel line that wasn't sealing perfectly when the hose was frellin' cold but I could never isolate the source of the smell. It lasted for about 3 months while cold and the truck never burst into flames or anything like that. If you discover your problem, please post the results so that others (like myself) may benefit from it.
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I recently won an auction for a replacement remote for my 95 pathy. The auction promised to include programming instructions (which are, by the way, contained in the service manual anyway). I received the remote yesterday along with the programming instructions. It read (in Reader's Digest condensed version):
I have had to reset my remote a few times over the years, and as I best remember it is something like this:
1. Turn the Alarm ON. (My switch is on center consol/arm rest)
2. Put the key in the ignition and turn to ON (May not be necessary.)
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After several ambiguous steps, it ends as follows:
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the lifters in the VG30E that you have are hydraulic and it is normal for them to tick until they get the oil pressure up and close the gap between the cam and the rocker arms. First thing to do, probably, is to have someone else start the engine and see if the noise is from one or both heads. If it's only 1, it's probably manifold related. There are a couple ways to check for a manifold leak too. You can visually inspect the studs (the bolts will be loose or missing if the stud is snapped off). My favorite is to listen around the manifold using some tubing and see if you can pinpoint the noise. Good luck.
Rear Drum removal
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
If your parking brake is not on, your brake shoes should not be holding the drum on. It's definately a snug fit and takes some work to remove but you probably need to do a bit of prying and hammering to ease it off. If you get it cockeyed even a little bit, it'll bind-up on ya. Smack the drum a few times from all angles to break it loose from the axle. You may be able to rig a press to pull on your drum and press against a plate sitting across your studs. Once you get it open, make sure you adjust your shoes so you can get it back on easily. Drum brakes definately need brute-finesse