Justin517

yeah, I looked into that, and its considerably more $$ than it would be for me to buy a $600-$800 turbo (or 2 smaller turbos) and a couple hundred dollars worth of stainless tubing/flanges and fab it all up myself... we would be talking half the price once its all said and done, especially if I would have to work out my own tuning for the supercharger. But i think I will look into contacting vortech to see how much just their mounting/drive system would cost... if they will even provide it seperately.

why not consider a VQ? I know that with mods the S/C VG33 would be a bit more horsepower but what kind of longjevity will you really get out of a blower, especially if you are using a smaller pulley. But then again, the VQ isnt a bolt in ordeal, is it?

yes it might cost more, but it wouldnt be a 3800 rpm redline jar-full-o-pennies rattle box... dont get me wrong I love diesels, but unless you put a @!*%-ton of work into it its not going to be any "faster" than your VG... itll have torque out the wazoo, and rock climb at itle, but it sounds like you wnat more getupNgo. Its not a pathy, its a patrol (larger, solid front axle) with an RB in it: muahaha:

Right now its just sort of a pipe dream but I'm really thinking about it. I <3 boost. I know the VQ is 10:1 which is pretty high, but I would only be running 6psi or so,a nd it would be intercooled... so it should be pretty safe... should be...lol. you can also get forged turbo pistons and Brian Crower or Eagle Rods for $$1100-$1200, then you'd have 8.5:1 compression and able to run as much boost as you ahve fueling for, but thats a slippery slope because then you have to upgrade the fuel pump and the transmission would be suspect... and who the hell wants a 550+ horsepower pathfinder anyway... sounds like a deathtrap to me. But yeah Ive thought about an eaton M90 supercharger too, fab up a piece that would go between the lower intake manifold and the blower... maybe even work in a water to air intercooler sandwiched in there... btu that would require hood modification and the belt drive seems like it would be pretty involved, plus it would always be robbing MPGs... witha turbo you can dial back the boost, or just stay out of it while cruising and get the same MPG as stock, or close anyway. I was also thinking about maybe a single turbo, like a big A/R (.82 or so) 60-1 T3 which may simplify things, but the question is where do I fit it? the airbox would be gone and I could re-locate the battery too, so maybe that'd work... so as you can see if I decide to go ahead with it, I have alot of variables to to nail down.

if you have stock wheels you would need spacers to run 32" tires, or they would probably rub on the strut. My 31"s are close and also rub at full lock, w/o a lift.

Well it looks like I'll be keeping stock, or atleast mostly stock, i wonder how it would react just replacing the muffler with a dual in single out, higher flowing unit... that would keep the puny dual pipes which are likely what is making the torque, but will give the truck a bit more of a grumble and maybe more top end also, without killing the torque too much... or maybe I'll just get 2 of these, they will provide decent back-pressure to the exhaust: stock turbo for 1.8T like I had on my audi, it was able to spike to 22 psi and held 13 by redline (its tiny) on 1.8L so it should be able to make 6 psi on 3.5L (1.75L each) pretty easily,a nd hold it to red-line, and they would spool so damn quick I'd get monster torque quite quickly... use a small ebay water/air intercooler I have a blown K03 turbo, I'll have to get the thing up on my buddies lift and see what kind of room I have. I'd need an IPT valve body first though me thinks. then there is the question of tuning... bigger injectors/rising rate FPR? SAFC? Wonder if Jim wolf can get me a base tune? sorry... I no longer have a fast turbo'd vehicle and its really bothering me, I dont want to buy another vehicle right now, but I keep thinking of ways to modify the one I have...

REALLY? thats pretty suprising. What kind of torque loss are we talking about here?? How was the top end with the 2.25" on there? and also I would imagine that it would improve gas mileage a bit with the larger exhaust, increased pumping efficency. I am really suprised it lost that much torque, maybe 2" would be a good compromise? I mean, looking at the aftermarket exhausts for the 350Z/Maxima/3.5 altima, they all seem to use decently sized piping, and while I know those vehicles weigh a bit less, they also dont have 4.68:1 axle ratios so torque loss I imagine would be an issue... How badly were the bends "pinched" on your system? a press-bent 2.25" pipe can have as small a cross section as a 1.75" pipe, especially in a 90° bend, which will hurt performance... both horsepower and torque.

I wasnt going to do dual 3", that would just be the tail-pipe after the muffler.

I tail pipe has been clunking against my reciever hitch and I blew out the ripoff "resonatior repair kit" in a few places on my '03 pathy and am finally going to order the stuff to build custom. I would be doing 2.25" or 2.5" mandrel bent to a dual inlet, single 3" outlet muffler in the stock location with (obvioulsy) a 3" tail pipe out the back... probably to the side like the VG pathys had but with slightlu more downward angle... basically to go over the axle imk going to cut a 3" 180° down the center, add a straight piece in the middle and make the rearward "leg" angled to stick out the side a bit. A few quastions: First- I know the VQ likes to breathe, and I hear the thing "hissing" when I get on it because of the puny diameter stock piping, so I think any improvement will be appreciated by the engine, but do you think I should go with 2.25" or 2.5" the price difference is negligeable and there seems to be a decent amount of room to fit it in there. Second- do you think 3" for after the muffler would be big enough? I could get 4" but each 180° bend is $10 more ($26 vs $16) and I'm not sure if I could get a muffler (atleast not for cheap) witha 4" outlet. I was also considering maybe doing 2.5" dual... not out both sides, they would exit nect to eachother on the passenger side... it would be a bit more expensive but probably sound pretty cool, ahve a larger choice of mufflers, and with an offset muffler I migth not need to do much for the tail pipe, could maybe do straight out the back, or maybe just a small kink here or there. any input is appreciated.

Eventually I'd like to get some more oomph out of my VQ (if I keep the path itll probbaly get a full rebuild at around 200k, might as well upgrade) the Jim wolf cams are really expensive. I was thinking that the REV-UP engine cams , if they fit, would be a nice upgrade. Standard VQ cams: Int: 238° duration .377" lift Exh: 240° duration .377" lift Rev-Up cams: 248° duration .417" lift both intake and exhaust. PDF of stock and Jim Wold cam profiles here If you could find them in a junk yard they could probably be a pretty nice upgrade. then I was also thinking about maybe just sending them out to Delta cams in washington state to have them add material and re-ground. I had oen of their cams for my GTI and it was a pretty nice piece and had no wear problems (I actuyally got it used too). I would probably go with something with a 260° duration and a .430"-.440" lift so it would be as much duration as the JWT S1 but with atleast as much lift as the smaller duration/higher lift S2 But still smaller overall than their C2 cam. Any thoughts?

POST IT UP! Ive seen it done on MKII VWs and many-a-audi but not a pathy.

This same thing has bothered me since I got my pathfinder. I used to run a MASSIVE oil filter on my A4 (over a qt capacity) from a volvo diesel. get a napa catalog and cross refrence by thread diam and pitch then look for a close gasket size. you may find something. internal pressures matter too though but d like to see really how much. plus it seems like you are limited by room for diameter too. Maybe look into an oil filter relocation kit? that uses a plate where the filter would go, then lines and then any size filter you want, sometimes 2. Also while we are on oiling systems, I will be getting oen of these:Moroso Accumulator at Summit Racing your engne pressurizes it, if you lose pressure it gets it back up there. AND if you flip the lever before you shut down, it stays pressuzed... the next time you start up, flip that lever first and it sends oil back through the system... no more "dry" starts... I dont like the fact that the oil light flickers when you first start it.

when I mounted my tires a few weeks ago I didnt have the pads backed out all the way and ended up lifting the front by the nerf-bar mount...lol.

I his work will probably be top notch, but $700? that seems like quite a bit, it says that des not include headlights... does it include the HID parts?. I have seen this done on VWs and Audis, actually if you search around you can find quite a few DIYs for it. I personally wouldnt worry about re-chroming and black it go with flat black inside, seeing as its not needed anymore because you will have projectors... it would look cooler too. I would liek to do it to m pathy someday, maybe if I can grab an extra set of headlights to hack up someday.

so its like "city lights" in europe?

nuttin speshul...

it does get you warmed up quicker, but the percentage of extra fuel used while accelerating with a richer fuel map I am sure is more than idleing for a minute or so. Plus the added benefits of the oil being a bit warmer and more circulated, seems well worth it to me. I'm not saying sit and idle until you are at operating temp... but a minute or so cant hurt.

But the coolant is still cold, the coolant sensor sees this so youre running a richer fuel map until you are warmed up. I dont think throttle input changes that, if that were the case you'd run really lean before you warmed up. Idleing with a richer fuel map is better than driving (accelerating) with one. atleast thats my take on it... thats how it worked on my old VW.

Yeah, I meant online. I mount/balance my own tires, my buddy has the 2 machines in his garage, so I didnt factor that in...

yeah I was getting close to 500km/tank (I even converted for you northerners!) now I'm getting MAYBE 400 km/tank. I do need to change all the lubes and flush the tranny and I need to do spark plugs. and I'm runnin 31" tires. I'll be getting manual hubs in jan, so hopefully all that will help.

Cheapest place ive found for quality tires is tirerack.com they were cheaper than everywhere and have AWESOME customer service, I got my tires in 1 day. As for steel wheels, there are a few places to get them... summit racing has cheap US wheels, there are diamond racing wheels , local is probably the best, also if you dont want anything fancy maybe look into your local junk yard and get some spare tire wheels, theyre steel, and prob can be had for really cheap, the one on my '03 is 16x7. I thaink that after a certain year (99.5?) many 15" wheels wont clear the brakes so make sure of that first. On the R50 the lift doesnt dictate what size tire you can run, its the lower spring perch on the strut (which doesnt change no matter how much you lift it), if you have small enough back spacing you'll be fine though. as for a 1" lift, there isnt one that is 1". Old Man Emu (OME) makes a 1.75" Automotive customizers (AC) makes a 2" and they have recently come out with HD stock height, which I guess is really like a 1/2" lift... which I think I may be trying out, or atleast the rear springs anyway. HTH.

They are 30.9" diameter. they clear the struts fine, about 1/2" distance between edge of the tread and the strut. I ran even closer in the rear on my audi and had no problems, even under really hard cornering (had much stiffer springs and the biggest sway-bars they made for the car) What I've read is 264/75-16s rub on the strut with stock wheels, but someone on here ran used, somewhat worn ones with a bit of clearance. I gues you can also grind the strut housing a bit or get/have made some spacers for the front. As for the 17" LE wheels, I am not sure what the back spacing is compared to the 16" SE wheels I have. thats really what it depends on, if its less you could go even bigger I'm sure. Looking at my tires specs on TireRack.com it looks like the 265/65-17 actually is 0.3" smaller in diameter with the same width... so you could probably run that just fine.

is it a bad idea to run it in my VQ? I probably wouldnt in the winter because its so "thick" when cold, but if i ran it when it gets warmer out would it be bad? I have a bit of oil consumption, and was thinking maybe this would cut down on it a little. thoughts?

I love the color of your pathy, I have a thing for green. if they go out of balance its not a big deal my really close friend has a balancing machine in his garage (and mounting machine). we did the tires at 6pm on a sunday night, lol. I know theyre cheap but the reviews they got on tire rack are great. The sidewall may not be as robust as a BFG but itll serve me well. It would ahve been $200 more for the BFGs. Is your truck stock height? or is it lifted? it looks higher than mine (in the rear atleast)... but I'm pretty sure mine just sags... towing a nearly 2000 lb trailer to florida (from CT), putting 4000 lbs of car and parts on it, and towing it back... plus having 800+ lbs of people/supplies inside will do that I guess... Plus ive moved 4 or 5 times with it too, completely loaded with seats folded down, roof rack and one of those little add-a-hitch platfors FULL of stuff, I was well into the bumpstops. I want to get HD rear springs for just the rear but I dont know if I'll liek the way that handles. I'm considering airbags too...

Got them from TireRack.com, they were $116 each ($545 shipped for 4 and they came in 1 day) I did some mild wheeling lastnight and man do they work well! there was this one hill that turns into a really steep incline at the top then there is sort of a tree in the way so I had to alomost stop at the top then continue. no spin at all. I wnat to try to get a video of it at some point. Here are some better pics too... dont mind the dent, someone opened their door into it or something, need to use the "Dent King" on it, lol.