slade420
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Posts posted by slade420
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id go for the dry shot if you get NOS. also, anyone see those computer controlled nos kits? where you can program what rpm and throttle position it sprays at. program it for like 80% throttle or something, for a shot of extra power for those extra sticky situations.
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well, now i need to recoup the cost. maybe i can sell some blood... lol
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those control arms do nothing for balljoint angle. or so im told. I just got the superift uca's from 4x4parts.com got raped by UPS on the shipping tho
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ugh! So i ordered some Superlift UCAs from 4x4parts.com and i paid $354.00 to have them shipped to me, only to have to pay a COD of $93.30!! what a rip off, UPS charged 53.05 for broker fee. and 37.60 Tax so ive had to spend 447.97 to get these F#@king things... im sooo not impressed. i wont be shopping there anymore. such utter bullsh*t... as if my build wasnt going slow enough as it is on a shoestring budget... UPS = United Piece of Sh*t. 'what can BROWN do to you?'
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my 93 came stock with 10 disc cd changer, 8 speakers i think, and a little clarion speaker amp. 2 tweeters in the a pillars and 2 in the headliner above the back seats...
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thanks for the tip, im gonna try to keep it as light as possible... i found a crak in my frame yesterday. damn rust.
gotta fix that too -
They still sell your exact tire, they just call the "odd" sizes LTBs.
Actually the LTBs are designed based on the TSL, but more aggressive. its true that they offer sizes not offered in the TSL. i really wanted a set.. still do.
Manufacturers description of this tire: The Super Swamper LTBs are in the same basic Three Stage Lug design as the famous Super Swamper TSL's but a little more aggressive. The large lug is offset more to the outside which gives the tire superb traction. It is in bias ply construction which allows for the more aggressive lugs and very strong sidewalls to better resist the rigors of hard off-roading. The bias construction reduces the chances of sidewall splitting when run off road at low air pressure. There are seven sizes available….sizes which are not available in the regular TSL line.
and a review: If you like the Super Swamper TSL (TSL = Three Stage Lug) then you'll love Interco's bias ply Super Swamper LTB. Think of the LTB as the second generation TSL with more aggressive features added to the TSL design. One such feature improvement is an increased offset towards the outside of the tire width on the largest lug of the Three Stage Lug design. This helps to create added grip in mud or to reach further out for better grip in rocks. Another added feature is a re-design inner lugs with a stepped design allowing better release of mud. The center lugs also have a tread design pattern modification over the Super Swamper TSL that give the lugs leading edges a zigzag pattern for better grip on rocks. With sidewall plys either 6 or 8 (depending on size), this tire is extremely durable in all types of terrain.
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010 DODGE CHALLENGER SRT8 - fully loaded; colour: limited edition Plum Crazy Pearl;
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In their defense, it was a mild section of the trail and they had a rack to hold on to, but yeah, I would rather ride inside the truck.
alright, thats not as bad as i thought... but still really dumb, i can picture someone getting bucked off pretty easy if you hit a at the right speed.
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Last Friday we were heading up Yankee Boy Basin near Ouray, CO and passed a red WD21 that was coming down. There were a couple guys riding on the roof. Was it anybody on this forum?
On the roof?!!? i really hope it wasnt anyone from here. Id like to think NPORA members are smarter than that.
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I found the grabber blue on ebay for $100 + $20 shipping. That's 1 gallon of paint and 1 quart of reducer. Think that will be anough to cover it? I'm going to grab primer from a local store and have the stuff to sand it. Havn't decided if I'l put a clear coat over top of it. Not sure if it would be worth the extra $75-$100 for it. Thanks.
you should put on a clear coat, it does more than make the paint shine. It protects the paint. Without it the paint wont last long at all. if you are going through the trouble of painting it with that blue, your gonna want it to last a long time. what you can do is look at using a matte/satin clear coat that is completely flat(no shine). if its metallic paint id go for the gloss clear coat.
and for the amount of paint, there is supposed to be a little formula: 7oz per panel per coat. id look into it.
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Wow that looks real good. Whats the name of that shade or its code? Thanks
ford calls it 'grabber blue metallic'.
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i think you will like the blue on this new mustang.
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I like the dark blue. It's kinda hard to believe my paint is 16 yrs old!
my 93 pathfinder was/is the same colour, i like it. it held up fairly nice even tho it i has 17 years of abuse. cant say the same for the frame
paint ur pathy like the desert runner!
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1970 Plymouth Roadrunner (383) <-- sick!!
1929 Ford Model A Roadster Pick up <-- classic
1965 Ford GT40 <--- AMAZING!! <-- i hope you thank the car gods at night for that one!
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i drive: 2000 chev malibu
my dads 2007 GMC Sierra 4x4 (its black, with the black denali front bumper)
my bro's 2002 Acura cl type S. (black)
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you will just have to make sure each one is raised the same amount and that who ever does the welding knows what they are doing and can make good welds.
lots of gussets.. im gonna be welding it myself, but if it gets too difficult i have a friend who is a master welder. my truck is off-road only, so i dont worry too much about damage...
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i gotta do this on my d21 the back cab mounts were destroyed. i cut them off, now i gotta make new ones.
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Due to the engine's unusual and aesthetically pleasing appearance, as well as its compatibility with common Ford RWD transmissions, such as the AOD and T-5, it is sometimes transplanted into other vehicles. Its distinctive intake manifold is bilaterally symmetrical, so it can be rotated 180 degrees (making it face "backwards" on the engine, relative to its original installation orientation) to ease the engine's transition from transverse to longitudinal mounting.
^ taurus SHO 3.0 v6
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this is probably a dumb question, but has anyone used a chev dana 44 for their SAS? waggys are really hard to find around here...
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i think its a good idea, maybe one with a better map, like linked up to google maps or something.
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what B said ^ It even says in the owners manual not to drive barefoot.
as the floor rusted out on both my D21 and pathy ive had a few problems. like the floor rusting away from the body mounts and causing the truck cab lean, having a golf ball sized hole rusted through my floor where the wiring harness for the ECU goes past the passenger's feet.. shorting out the wiring, killing the "finder of paths". Having the rear hatch "shocks" not hold the hatch up in the winter only and it falls and hits you while you're looking for something... 
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i like the red lettering...
but but they dont have the most aggressive tread.. -
i just finished patching the floor and rocker panels in my D21 using the hood from my dead pathy.
rivets to hold it together and then weld the seams -
got my UCAs today, you would think id be excited
in General Forums
Posted
No worries man, and no i didnt pay a COD when you sent the shackles.
Another update: after looking the UCAs over, it almost looks like only one of them has the protective coating. they definitely have a different colour. Oh and the one that looks coated, has a spot of rust on a seam. on the under side of the plate where the ball joints bolt on...