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slade420

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Posts posted by slade420

  1. too much wheel spin at low speeds can just dig you into a hole, dont crawl into the mud and then punch it, thats how lots of people get stuck, you need to keep the momentum going and adjust wheel spin accordingly. too much soin and your losing traction.

  2. So after fighting with my torsion bars and getting frustrated i decided to read my Haynes Manual. I think it can help with re-indexing. It says for 4wd models, to take out the adjuster bolt and retainer clip, THEN remove the nuts on the torque arm, allowing you to pull the bar out forwards. just thought id mention it.

  3. Heres a little tip, when you are marking the bar location with paint, mark the front location also. my bars were really seized in the anchors so i used a bottle jack against the frame to push on the anchor... and the bar came out of the front anchor!! and i didnt have the front marked... *sigh* :headwall:

  4. i got a 2000 malibu, with some winter tires it is quite able. those 3.1 v6 are bulletproof. Its taken my abuse and still is reliable. id say take the 'Bu.

  5. I was thinking, i know that with the 4" of lift of this kit theres a bunch of different mods you gotta do, like find a 1 piece drive shaft (for the d21). So what if you made up some differential drop brackets that dropped it only 2 inches? the idea being to add a couple inches to a UCA/re-indexed torsion bar lift truck, without needing everything from the $1300 trailmaster kit. any thoughts?

  6. thats awesome. nice find.

     

    I was thinking, i know that with the 4" of lift of this kit theres a bunch of different mods you gotta do, like find a 1 piece drive shaft (for the d21). So what if you made up some differential drop brackets that dropped it only 2 inches? the idea being to add a couple inches to a UCA/re-indexed torsion bar lift truck, without needing everything from the $1300 trailmaster kit. what do you think, would you still need to drop the lower control arms?

  7. if you didnt notice it before, maybe there was a glitch in your system. when your mech disconnected the battery to install your security system, it was disconnected long enough to reset the computer. Thats my best guess... ive been disconnecting mine a lot since i was welding on my truck. My seatbelt warning is really loud

  8. Least he looked for a previous topic, located, and added to. Not start a new one :aok:

     

    :blush02: haha thanks nunya. its almost like i know what im doing.

    since i cant afford the shipping from summit, im gonna get some black rock crawler rims from zoneoffroad.ca, not white like i wanted.. oh well

  9. The majority of 88's driving was on road as it was his daily driver at the time, from what I remember shrug.gif But he did spend a lot of weekends off road, wheeling and looking for rocks.

    ....If your going to stick to off road, those tires should last a lot longer...

     

     

     

    Thats good enough for me! thumbsup.gif thanks guys

  10. Quote

    Dowser. 4. Its been 4 years... Just how bad was the tire wear?

     

     

     

    Aaron. Pretty bad. Tread compound is very soft so road wear is fairly noticeable and they tend to cut easily on sharp rocks. I may have gotten about 20k out of them, tops.

     

    Hope that helps, man!

     

    -Aaron

     

    i love the LTBs, i hope to get a set the same size. but because my truck is strictly of-road, im hoping the bias ply will last a while longer... Any idea how much of that 20K was on-road?

  11. it can be hard to hid some scratches, touch-up paint is alright for the small but deep scratches. for sanding the clear that can be hard. you might have used to much speed or pressure with ur buffer and sanded too much off. you might want to sand by hand. also have you read into using a clay bar system. take your time and remember to start with small test spots.

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