Kingman

Yup, same here, no problems

How is that connected to the brake system?

Mine does it in about 15 seconds...

Wouldn't I be losing brake fluid too though?

It's always done this since I bought it, but at idle, in park or drive, if I push the brake pedal to the floor, the engine stumbles and sputters for a few seconds or until I release the brake pedal. Sometimes, it will keep stumbling for a few seconds afterwords. It has never done it so badly as to kill the engine, just enough to lower the RPM's and make the engine sound like it's missing. I know the brakes run off vacuum from the engine, but is this normal? Is this a tell-tale sign of something?

You go from 0-60 in FIVE SECONDS?!

Thought so, lol

www.carsurvey.org

If I remember correctly, the 2.5s are prone to leaking/blowing head gaskets as the mileage creeps towards 100k

A what?

After the new cat, temp sensor, tires, and NGK Iridiums, got it to 103 yesterday. It was awfly wafty-whooshy

So this could be a combination of two things? That coolant hose between the heads and the rad cap? I checked that hose, it looks like sh!t and though it didnt leak when I fired the engine up, I can deff see why it would. Also, there's definitely fried coolant around there. The rad cap sure did spew coolant with pretty high pressure too, burned the crap out of my stomach.

Nothing comes out the tail pipe, oil is good, and so is the coolant. No mixing at all. No, the coolant reservoir has never boiled. I dont know what it would mean if it does or doesnt? And you know, now that I think about it, my throttle body and manifold is greenish looking, like algea is growing on it....looks like fried coolant.

50/50 mix, water pump is like 8 months old. Coolant also seems to circulate fine for the most part when it heats up, sometimes it will kinda stop and bubble up, then start moving again. The thing that gets me is how sometimes it will do it for a few days (I'll probably pour over a half a jug of coolant in it a day) then not do it at all, use no coolant whatsoever, for a few more days.

Kinda got a wierd issue goin on here... Been using some coolant lately, leaking it out on the ground overnight or for a long period of time. However, I can't find where the hell it's coming from, because it doesn't look like its under the radiator. It also overheats at idle sometimes. Last month I replaced my hoses and thermostat, and it solved the problem for a while until recently. It's also intermittent, too. I did notice a few times, I was doing something can't remember what, and i revved the engine when i was under the hood and my radiator cap started spouting coolant. It does that every once in a while too. I also noticed that if I fill my radiator up too much, it overheats and the cap will leak.

try putting the key inn the driver's door and unlocking it, this is how you re-set a grand cherokee's alarm. It's worth a shot.

The Costless Auto Parts near my house has Iridiums for Pathfinders for $7.29 a piece.

Lower River Road here in Vancouver (long straight away where people used to race their muscle cars back in the old days) I got my '87 up to 93...but it took FOREVER and used a sh!t ton of gas

Oh, ok! Thanks, I had no idea that was there...lol. I'll play with it today and see what results i get

Would you mind posting a pic? Now I have no idea what you're talking about, i've only noticed one screw that the head is pointed up tp the sky, and it's got as spring and seat surrounding it. If I turn it alot, the idle raises. But that's alot.

Sorry to being back on old thread, but mine idles at about 400 rpm once fully warmed up and in drive. If i turn on my rear defrost, the idle raises to like 600-700 or so. I've messed with the idle screw and it didn't really to too much for fine tuning, but it definitely makes a difference when the engine is cold, it'll go up to 2 grand almost. What can I do?

Redfinder's post about sums up the other weekend's events

I wouldn't think the cat would make a difference, but since I have a new magnaflow cat sitting in the garage waiting to be installed once it rains, ill get back to you on that. But it was a B!TCH to remove! MSD ignition would be where I would start if you're worried about how the truck sounds. Then there's an electric can swap you can to to rid the engine of turning the fan

Well, I would have assumed it was the DRL module, with just flipping the light switch till they both worked, until i read that bumps affected it. This usually means something loose somewhere, and hitting bumps either makes the connection or breaks it. I agree with what redfinder said, the sockets might be just weird enough to cause this, and the headlight switch as well, though I think less because of how the lights are affected when you hit bumps, but it's definitely something to look into.

Sounds like a wiring issue