Reido

Yeah the thing to keep in mind is that we are maybe a little bit fanatical. Especially about the mods that we have done to our own Pathy.

Between the down pipe and mani you say? You should have a pretty loud exaust leak to be able to see any liquid dripping out of there. If you haven't noticed the exaust leak then the liquid is coming from another location.

I'll try to get a hold of a camera tomorrow but if not I will post an explaination then pics later.

There is an exaust connection right under your right foot. Check for an exaust leak there. I had one there and it melted my aftermarket floor mat to the rubber pad in the stock carpet.

Right this is exactly what the Toyota did and it died at exactly 2000 just like you say. What happened is the TPS was stuck on sending an idle signal so no matter how much you move the throttle plate it is still telling the computer "we're in idle mode." The MAF sensor records more air flowing by so more fuel is injected which speeds up the engine to 2K. At this point the computer cuts off the injectors because that speed is too high for idling. After it drops to ~1500 it starts all over again. I'm not saying the TPS is bad for sure but it is the first thing I would look into. EDIT: Although the intermittentcy of your problem does complicate things.

I'd bet throttle position sensor. I've seen the same problem on a Toyota after a creek crossing. We had to bypass the sensor with a paper clip to limp home.

Dont think so. I haven't done them on the Pathfinder just a Chevy. Should just need a pair of snap ring pliers, punch and hammer, and about 10 - 15 mins. The snap ring is straightfoward (if there is one?) and the cage needs to be rotated in the housing with the punch so the balls can be removed from the top.

Use lots of brake cleaner. Dissolves the grease, washes it all out, and evaporates quickly. To do a really good job disassemble the joint down to separating out the ball and cage and clean them all separately.

Ditto.....although I never bothered to see what gears it is in; I just turned up the radio When i did a fluid change it definitly helped but was still nosiy. I've also been thinking about trying 100% lucas oil stablizer to quiet it down. The little advertisment / demo in SHucks recommends that. I had that problem that I am pretty sure was from an exaust leak. After a little road trip I tried to clean the carpets but my floor mat on the driver side was melted to the floor. My shoe was also flattened along the heel from the heat.

Poor man's impact wrench. Works great though

ifs = independent front suspension. The a - arm setup on the Pathfinders and most all newer trucks comprimises off road ability for on road handling. I think the only way to get more flex there is to remove the sway bar. I was very impressed with the way my Pathfinder handled some tough trails with both sway bars off. I made some "quick" front disconnects for cheap that I need to show you guys sometime.

Really? :confused: I thought for some reason that the stock amps were in the back somewhere. In any case the box is about an inch thick, 5 - 6 inches wide, and 4 - 5 inches deep. It doesn't say anything except K H and Nissan. Is that the one you're thinking of Joeytattoo?

I dont think your stereo would like the water too much although thats pretty deep water. Then there is some other electronic box mounted just under the stereo that should also be protected. I'm not sure what it is though :confused: anyone know? The engine will die if the distrbutor gets wet but no damage done. Then of course a snorkel for the air intake. Thats all of the critical things I can think of right now but no garentee that you'd be ready for a dunking after all this.

Hey man dont get too down about the accident. I bought my Pathy about a year and a half ago for $3000 and maybe a month after I got it I got in a wreck and it was totaled. But I got a check for 3500 and spent right around 500 on a new door and fender. Sure I got two mismatched panels and a smashed up rocker panel but it was essentially free.

I'm almost done moving my ECU. It will soon be mounted above my passenger visor. Just incase those creeks and puddles are deeper than I expect.

99% sure its the starter. I had the same thing once on an S10 and I drove around hitting the starter with a pipe for about a month

I've done it twice (Pathy and mom's van). All the electrical componets inside the door have plugs and I just unplugged them leaving the wires hanging from the door frame of the truck. Then I swapped the parts over to the new door, mounted the new door, then plugged it all back in. Never used any wires from the "new" door. I would think that splicing all those wires would actually be more time consuming but maybe I'm misunderstanding something. But whatever you've found works for you is cool

Splicing the wires is kinda a hack job. All the wires go to the different parts inside (window motor, lock) and have plugs a little hard to get to in some cases but something anyone could do with a little patience. Broncofan, I assume you are have a new shell and need to take the guts out of your old door. The mirror is very straightfoward as is the handle and lock; just have to find a good angle to get at those screws. The glass is a little tricky. Just be patient and maybe get a second set of hands to hold the door while you find just the right angle to slide it in. And be careful; just a little chip on the edge of the glass can shatter the whole thing. Good luck.

the auto locking hubs will come off as one peice and dont need to be disassembled to replace drive axles or wheel bearings

I think it may have something to do with wear patterns on the lifter and cam. Something like the lifter is supposed to rotate and the wear pattern will be circular. If you were to put this on a shiny new cam the wear pattern in the lifter may wear down the cam faster. This is all something I thought up based on one caption I recall reading in a repair manual for an S-10 so ... . But I think that if your engine is under 50,000 mi. then they don't need to be replaced.

Whats your plan for supercharging it?

oddball? tell me more i surely don't recall any probs... The hub nut on these trucks is like a giant threaded washer and has the two holes in it meant for some special tool. I havent been able to find this tool that's supposed to be used at any auto parts store and I'm too cheap/poor to buy one online.

not a pathy

Sounds like a resonable conclusion, but i would look into it furthur before buying new stuff. Check to make sure the resistances of the wires are all within the same range, and also try running the truck when it is dark out. Then you could see if your wires are shorting out and arcing to nearby metal.