Reido

Perfect timing on the post 88. Fixed my idle problems I had just started to notice and it runs and idles much smoother now. Thanks

I had a couple of quirky idle problems (not necessarily rough but fast and stumbling some times but most of the time it behaved normally). So I cleaned my MAF sensor following 88's Instructions. Fixed my quirky idle problems so far as I can tell, plus my normal idle and driving at low RPM's feels significantly smoother. But I did have a bit of dried muddy water up there around the sensor so maybe it wouldn't be as significant a change for others. Also don't know if your sensor is at all similar.

I just got a chance to try this out tonight. I have the low beams wired up but not soldered and nothing is really ziptied/taped into place but the light output is amazingly better. My low beams are more powerful than my highbeams were previously. I can't wait to see how well the high beams will work. Not too difficult to do either, so I *highly* recommend this as a project to get to before the dark and rainy season comes. I was thinking with this system I could wire up a switch pretty easily that would allow my high and low beams to be on at the same time for maximum output should I need it. Will this be too rough on the bulb since it houses both filaments?

Brilliant ideas, but I just used the standard transmission jack. Had to wrestle with it for an hour or so but it's all back together now. Works fine again, but it has a way different pedal feel to it now. I drive the thing like I'm just learning a stick again. Going to have to try to make some adjustments.

Wait this topic is way old... I swear it was on the first page of the garage... oops

Yeah I just did this this last weekend. RTV works fine. I also layed in on real thick on and around the clutch fork boot to seal that off. I think water and mud in there is what did in my first clutch/throwout bearing.

Thanks for the tips MM but I think I'll just let it go till it dies. Mostly because that would be getting myself in too deep to get it all back together this weekend, but also because I'm curious how far it'll go (engine and trans)

So MM, since you've had the whole thing apart... I have my transmission out right now to replace the clutch. There is a bit of end play on the input shaft, so I know the front main bearing is pretty worn. How difficult is it to get to that bearing? Can I just take off the front cover inside the bellhousing? Or do I have to tear the thing halfway apart?

Ok pilot bushing sounds right since that is included in the clutch kits, but how do i get it out? It is pressed into the end of the crank and i didn't see anything to tug on or anyway to get behind it and push it out. Good idea for finding out when the damage happened too.

Does anyone know if the polyurthane (or whatever they happen to be) bushings will decrease articulation compared to rubber? I'm talking about suspension bushings in general.

Have you tried just bleeding the hydralics yet and/or adjust pedal freeplay and things? Try that first.

Well I only got as far as getting it apart as far as possible this weekend :oops: To my credit the weather did suck and so do my tools. Good thing i decided to do this now though. Turns out that the throwout bearing had completely seized and was just grinding against the pressure plate when the clutch was disengaged. Because of this two of the spring "fingers" were broken off and the rest had a groove in them that when about halfway through. No wonder my clutch wouldn't disengage So next weekend I'll get a whole new clutch put in and get the flywheel resurfaced. Also after I had the clutch off i noticed that there is this metal plug in the end of the crankshaft (bronze color and about 3/4 inch diameter and 1/2 inch deep). A good portion of this is chipped off. I couldn't find the piece so I don't know how long it has been like this or if I just did it taking out the transmission. The plug still appears to be sealing off whatever is behind that. Does anyone know what that thing is for and if I should replace it? I'm not too worried about it but I can just see it popping out and oil pouring all over my new clutch and running the engine dry. And Earth and mws i can post a kinda walkthrough thing if you would like.

If "the big manual" is something besides Chilton or Haynes then yes please send those. I assume by rebuild the whole thing you're referring to a whole new clutch. And I don't know if that's what I'll do. If it turns out to be just a one Saturday job then I'll just do the bearing to save money for the moment ($20). If it really fights me and takes all my patience and weekend or more then I'll probably do a whole new clutch (~$250). I think either way I'll try to find a way to seal up the bellhousing. The tough part of that will be some kinda boot around the fork... other than that just a bunch of RTV and a breather hose.

Well I think I'm going to go for it anyway. Worst case the truck sits im my parents driveway for a couple of weeks . Besides that I won't have another chance for another 4 or 5 weeks. I'll let you know how it goes Earth. Any input is still appriciated btw.

So a few weeks ago on a 4wheeling trip I got a little overconfident with some mud. I ended up getting deep enough in that a couple inches of water flooded the cab (glad i relocated the computer now). Immediately after this I noticed the clutch had almost no slip at all; it was all or nothing. Later on the freeway going home the clutch was slipping at about half throttle. The next day the clutch seemed to be back to its old self, but now the throwout bearing was squealing pretty loudly when the clutch pedal was down. So i figure put up with it for a while maybe it will go away but it will probably get worse eventually. About a month later I go 4 wheeling again, just as I start to show off and impress people with what a stock Pathfinder can do, my clutch wont disengage all the way. So I can't get it into gear. I bleed the hydralics on the trail in the rain and it's a little better but quickly getting worse, so I have to park it for the rest of the day. So now I have the chance to fix it this weekend or wait till later this summer. Important stuff down here So my question is to anyone who's done any clutch work on a Pathfinder: Can I get to and replace the throwout bearing in about a day and a half. I'm just a driveway mechanic. I think I can get a transmission jack and I got my hand tools. To get an idea of my experience, i've done a full engine rebuild and helped on a couple plus did all the repairs (lots) on an '86 S-10 I've just never had to tear into the Pathy this deep. Can I just move the transmission enough to do it all or does the engine need to be moved a bit too?

What bike is that and what kind of riding do you do? I just got myself a K2 Lithium 3.0 to replace the $100 FS walmart piecer that got stolen. Took it out on its first trail ride this Sunday and I already can't wait to go again. Nice cargo area btw.

I got my old S10 towed out of a little off road playground once. The lug studs sheered off so I was stuck having only 3 wheels only 100 ft from the road (although it's a 1/4 mile off road drive to get to this position). So I told AAA I was just 100 ft from the road and that a tow truck could get to where I was. The guy wasn't happy when he got there but he went ahead and did it and had a good laugh at me to make up for it when he saw the truck.

Are you in 4wd when you notice this problem or is it all the time? Front and rear tires travel different distances when turning. When turning in 4wd on a surface with decent traction you get the symptoms you describe. If you don't think you're in 4wd maybe the 4wd wont disengage??

Transmission / t-case is mounted on rubber blocks which would allow for a *little* bit of play.

k9sar, I think you're right on about the main (or more likely rod) bearing being spun, but laying under the oil pan with a mechanically faulty engine running sounds like a bad idea. Wouldn't want a rod to be thrown with this guy laying under it at the time.

going from 32" to 33" you'll have 96.97% of the acceleration you used to have at the same rpm and gear. Just take the ratio of the two tire diameters or radiuses (radii?). 31"/33" = .9394 = 93.94%. This ignores the extra weight of bigger tires which I think you mentioned earlier. I'd guess an extra couple of pounds per tire per inch, so nothing you're going to be able to notice.

You should be able to get it into first or reverse even if your clutch won't disengage. The engine can't be running though. If it doesn't go in to first or reverse try some other gears to hopefully move something enough so you can get first or reverse. If that doesn't work just turn the key real quick to blip the starter and move some gears a little more. Once you get it into 1st or rev you can start it up in gear but you'll be moving as soon as you turn the key.

I had the exact same problem and used the exact same solution. But my tape couldn't take the abuse. Guess I shouldn't be so cheap.

You say it does alright above 4000 rpms? That would seem to rule out fuel delivery problems since the engine will use more fuel at higher rpms assuming throttle position is the same. Your first step should be to check the error codes from the computer then go from there. Also it would help to know what year your Pathfinder is.

But at the same time I don't think that a bad O2 sensor would cause problems as serious as stalling and such. Usually it's just bad gas mileage and higher emissions. Right? I think air flow meter or a leak in the intake might be worth checking out.