Channel595
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Posts posted by Channel595
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well every one here always says "check codes" first part of trouble shooting... in most cases i would agree but these engines are so old that they only have about 15 codes and only tell you if you have a shorted or "implausable" signal from a sensor. the codes will not tell you if a sensor is intrrmittent or if it is not working properly. just my 2 cents.
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might sound dumb but fuel filter?
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was that the lifters i was hearing? i know on mine sometimes first start of the day it wont build oil pressure asap and the lifters are loud causing a missfire and uneven idle... makes sense if the valves arent opening to the full
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go with 15in, tires are cheaper and easier to find plus steelies are easy to spray paint lol
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my favorite buy is the die grinders for 6 bucks, why spend 80+ for a brand name one when i can just get another one for 6 lol. i have had the same one for about 2 years now and it leaks air out the side but its still worth all 6 bucks
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not to post jack but my needles are bent too i wonder why?
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So i have been looking around at a new cell phone plan for a while and pretty much i am torn between 2 major decisions: a smart phone(droid) or a iphone. The plan you pick is almost the same price, so my decision is whether to pick a smart phone or a iphone the main reason i want an iphone is because i own an itouch and i love it, but it can only play flash if you jailbreak it. tell me what you have to say about it, anything helps.
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just make sure that the one you pick has the right sized pitman arm and sometime the taper for the ball joint is reversed from the 4x4 pathfinder
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sounds like the relay is stuck or the accumulator developed a leak and will not hold a 'charge' of pressure
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just sand it flat with a block sander and 800 and it will be fine, i do this every time i do a head gasket and never had a problem
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if you just take a die grinder and cut off the lower radiator supports and take the top radiator brakets and flip them upside down the radiator will fit perfectly with the 3 inch body lift. i was going to make some lower brackets but i never got around to it and its been fine for about 2 years now lol
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can the aac valve be removed with out removing the upper intake manifold?
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so i let some one borrow my car for about 3 months and now that it has expired tags and a high idle at about 1700 - 1900 i need to get it to pass. i saw this http://forums.nicoclub.com/iacv-aac-cleaning-and-testing-tutorial-t251133.html on another forum and i was wondering if you can take it off the pathfinder intake with out removing the intake manifold it looks like a tight fit. also there is an IACV and IACV-aac i cant tell which is which and in the FSM EF&EC -14 it shows the ecm controlled one with no connector on it and the temp controlled one with a connector? just as a shot in the dark i tried to use some intake cleaner and had no luck...
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nissans are overcooled, i ran my truck on the hottest day of the year with no fan shroud and it didnt even run hot at all, the radiator is pretty big and has a nice thickness to it. you could probably run it with a radiator half the size and it will be fine
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diesel is far superior then gas. its easier to work on, more power per liter, less electronics for the computer, easier to tune, and can be submerged in water.
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you will have to start by removing the engine, and then only use champion racing plugs! as for sealer elmers glue is what i used
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you can use a nut cracker to install it, lol. its a tapered thread so it dont need to be that tight. i did this before when i was in a pinch and had no tools but what i could find, and didnt leak a bit.
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5w 30 is way too thin for 300k miles, use at least 10w 30
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fuse links are a pain. i would replace them if i had the first sign of problem from them. use a marine type battery terminal and then you can run all the fuses to a post on the terminal. i dont see how that article makes sence... so if you have a 30 amp fuse link for your radiator fan that takes 30 amps to run but it takes 60 amps every time it starts up wouldnt the fuse link be melting a little bit every time it starts up?
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the thing i love to see is all these lifted late model trucks with the adjustable aluminum hitch that is bent from braking hard, i can just imagine how many of those broke off
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i say go for it and try the hockey puck lift... the rubber will only break down if you live in a polluted place and that is like years of corrosion, if your tires will get side wall checked before your tread wears out thats a bad sign. besides the rubber will probably have some cushy feel to it so it might make a softer ride
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that is way too rusted to fix and have it be worth the time or money.
so here is what you do: take out the engine and trans from pathy, part out or sell the remains. drive your 300zx like its stolen, and when your engine blows up you will have a nice donor to drop right in and replace!
and by the way all those pathfinders listed are way over priced, i paid 1450 for mine and did almost nothing to it been driving it for almost 2 years now.
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i did the passenger side steering gear and it came off a 87 something... but the diameter of the pitman arm splines is smaller, the overall length of the arm is shorter, and also the taper for the ball joint is backwards. i dont know how i will get a longer pitman arm to fit this though...
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just my 2 cents... i got 2 sets of jgc springs and didnt lift much... i decided to put spring spacers in and cut the bump stops down that way it will tuck more and keep the center of gravity down and best of all keeping factory parts!
Changed The Dash Lights
in General Forums
Posted
when i first bought my pathfinder i had some lights out, i slapped the top of the dash and the lights havent turned back off yet 2 years later