Channel595
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Posts posted by Channel595
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cut it off at the first wrinkle so that way it doesent show at all thats what i did
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how about cheaper ft control arms, i dont see them being worth almost 400 bucks for welded steel stock
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The vg 30 is pretty gutless to begin with but if you use a turbo engine and put a tiny turbo on it it would make more lower end torque and at top end the turbo would pretty much do nothing
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I don't see why an sr20det won't work... I'm not sure but I think it might mate up with the stock tranny...
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it seems pretty biased only american and european cars on there
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did this yesterday and i see why you need the power steering pitman arm now... the taper for the ball joint is backwards, but if your cheap like me you will drill a 9/16 hole half way through the pitman arm and the ball joint will seat where it should. also if you dont want to drill slots through the holes that dont line up on the gear box you can drill smaller ones and the spare bolts from the body lift will work.
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230k and still has factory plug wires!
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clutch freeplay? how is gl 4 hard to find?
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bosch invented fuel injection so it might own the patent but it is more of a european OEM brand. its not like you can find any factory nissan parts that actually have a bosch brand stamped on it. bosch does make stuff all around the world because it makes all sorts of electronics like appliances and power equipment.
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i second that on the sea foam... i would only use it if you were to tear down and rebuild, you might as well just pour brake cleaner in your engine
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i wouldnt use bosch anything on a japanese car... as for a cap and rotor use only factory parts, tune ups can make cars misfire with brand new aftermarket parts as for plugs only use NGK get platinum so you dont have to replace them for a long time
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this happened to my truck ever since i bought it, the only thing i can come up with its the control arm bushings in the rear, when it stops the rear diff will change angles and when you take off it puts opposite load on it and you hear a thud. its not u joints because they usually make a ping noise.
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dont stick anything into the spark plug hole, its too much of an angle... just look down it and turn the motor over by hand. if your average height you will be able to see down into it, ive done it before.
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sounds like master cylinder, when you press the brake in slow it wont seal internally allowing fluid to bypass.
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i got my 92 for 1450 off craigslist with 220k, with worn out brakes, tranny, and t belt(had all ft seals and belt replaced about $200). hand full of dents but no rust. and thats all the money i have put in it in the past year or 2. i would say its a decent price
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i was thinking of putting a spool or welding the front diff, because its only spinning when in 4 wheel drive... would this just be crazy stupid to drive on road in snow or will i snap cv axles off road? just looking for input.
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just weld the diff, it can increase your torque by 25% and increase gas mileage by 10% its also cheapest option.
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on my car there is a line that runs down the middle of the windshield and over to the passenger side and connected to a lead what is this for. it does have a normal antenna on the fender...
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one thing i always wanted to try is put some dual cam heads on from a maxima or a 300z looks like the same physical size dont know if the intake matches up though and i think there is one more idler for the timing belt... junk yard would be the best bet
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the next mod i will be doing... is the manual steering gear from what year, can it be from a hardbody.
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i got the kit from 4x4 parts and it comes with all the hardware and a bunch of spare bolts that i had no idea where they go. the only thing i had to do is drop the radiator so it fit with the fan, i flipped the upper mounting brackets upside down and it dropped it perfectly. i had to cut the body where the lower radiator supports usually went and weld in some small tubing so the rubber mounts will fit in(still haven't got around to it) the rear bumper had to have new holes drilled to fit closer, and the rear license plate bracket i cut in half and flipped upside down and it looks good now. the brake lines have to be stretched at the coils. and my p/s reservoir still isnt bolted down but the line is in a body clip so it dont move around.
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why dont we organize a npora trail run? i see a lot of people on the forums are from washington or oregon... why dont we have any events on the calendar? i live 45 minutes from mt hood and almost anywhere in between there is a designated off road trails. i just think it would be cool to see more action of the npora members.
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i guess what im asking is that if i were to just floor the gas pedal will it rev the engine past 6k until it just self destructs or will it cut spark/fuel. i know i have gone past the dotted red line (5.5k) many times with no problem (smoke isnt a problem). but i know a lot of cars that i have had before like newer civics will cut the spark and you can just do a burnout with the pedal to the floor and it will cut spark so it doesent go past the red line and bend valves, it will just rev and bounce around the red line.
T Belt
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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compression check would tell you if you had bent valves. usually if its an automatic you have less chance of bending valves because the crank isnt directly connected to the wheels