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tekazgtr1984

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Posts posted by tekazgtr1984

  1. here is the picture of the wheel I want to use for my pathfinder. not sure if the center hole will fit mine( I have a 4x4) and if the lug pattern are the same

     

     

    Lug pattern is the same (6x5.5) but I'm not sure about the offset... You said 40... mm I assume? :huh:

  2. Okay so if I want to get spacers is there any plans or schematics that anyone has that i can give to a local chop to have them made?

    Or will the 9/16 spacers be enough?

     

    Dunno about any of this... I've been wondering whether or not I should do this to my R50 as well... Wondering if it'll be worth it.

    But I'd want to keep my 'raked' look so I'd do strut spacers and rear spring spacers, 1" both F and R.

  3. working on ariplanes, we are quite anal about corrosion here. there is not much that corrodes without our knowledge and it doesn't get very far. one thing we do is apply sealant to every thing. anywhere that 2 pieces are srewed, bolted or riveted together there its sealant; in between and somtimes an extra bead arround the edge. The selant does more than waterproof, it prevents dirt from entering and reduces vibration that would cause dirt and friction of parts to wear down other protective coatings such as paint.

    That being said, I reccomend after yall get your fenders repaired/replaced using sealant when installing the flares. A few tips on aplication to keep it clean and neat looking;

    -tape off the outline of the flare first so it doesn't squeeze out onto the rest of the fender and tape the outside edge of the flare too

    -use a portion of a saw blade (9-15 teeth per inch reccomended) to "rake" the sealant once its applied, this ensures even thickness coverage and reduces exess "squeeze out" after part is installed.

    -install flares and remove tape carefully as it will have exess squeez out on it.

    -unlike aircraft, a regular tube of clear RTV silicone and a caluk gun from the hardware store can be used for this. I'm gessing 2 9" tubes for all 4 flares.

     

    That's a great idea! :D Thanks

    I'll definitely be doing that once I repair the damn rust :jig:

    What kind of sealant would this be, and is it available in stores?

  4. Who did you sleep with at Napa?? I called and they quoted me $190 with no flare!

     

    LOL I didn't sleep with anyone at NAPA but that's the price they gave me...

    My girlfriend would kick my ass if I began whoring myself for deals on parts :tongue:

  5. I have uploaded pics of the rust on my R50... quarter panel repair is a kick in the teeth.

    I'm looking at about $600 for the right side alone :(

    The rest may have to wait till spring...

     

    Here are the links with the so-called 'target spots':

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...50/DSC07143.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...50/DSC07144.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...50/DSC07142.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...50/DSC07141.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...50/DSC07140.jpg

  6. So i am looking into getting the Delux Suspension Package off of 4X4parts.com- is this the right kit to go with or should i go with another kit? Also I was wondering if i should go and put on the Warn manual locking hubs right away or wait for awhile. But i looked at the hubs and for the 1990-2004 (I have a 01) it says that it is only for the 3.0 or 3.3 Engine. But having the le with the 3.5 will it still work, or will it cause problems? And will the hubs fit over new wheels if I decide to get them?

     

    The Deluxe Kit is a great option, well worth the price for what you get in the kit. I'm riding the same struts and shocks and it makes for an uber plush yet responsive ride on and off the road :jig:

    As for the hubs, you don't need them right off the hop once your rig is lifted. It depends on how much wheeling you intend to do because a 2" lift really angles your CV axles and could lead to failure. Warn manual locking hubs are a good idea in the long run but you can wait a bit without worrying :D

    As for your 2001 Pathy, here's a link:

    http://www.gowarn.com/search_result.asp?Ma...p;Submit=Search

    I just recently did some research on this topic and gowarn.com seems to be the best option. Hope that helps :happy:

  7. Year: '98 XE

    Lift : 2"

    Wheels : Helo Maxx8 (16"x8", 4" offset I think)

    Tires : Toyo Open Country A/T (265x75R16)

    Notes: No other mods, rubbing at full turn right or left... otherwise :itsallgood:

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...er/DSC06564.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...er/DSC06573.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...er/DSC06610.jpg

     

    http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/qq242/t...er/DSC06612.jpg

  8. Not necessarily, because finding an H233B rear axle with disc brakes could be hard to find. I would choose an axle that has the best diff and gears first, and which has disc brakes already. Ford 9" or Dana60 come to mind, but I'm no expert on axle swaps. I've done virtually no research on what would fit.

     

    This is all new to me as well. Thanks for the info though :D

  9. Axle swaps are always possible. Like many other things, what's "possible" boils down to either time or money or both. Sure, you can swap in a similarly-sized donor axle that has disc brakes, but is it worth it? That's up to you, and you alone. It's your money.

     

    Oh for sure, money is always an issue... My Pathy isn't the only thing to which that applies.

    But for that axle swap I wonder which would fit. A Nissan donor would be ideal... right?

  10. I noticed tmorgan's wicked R50 has, among other badass things, a rear axle with... wait for it... disc brakes! :omg:

    I wonder where that came from and if that swap would be possible without the whole SAS application.

  11. Im talking the glove box thing, I agree that for a lot of people this is an important topic to discuss...I personally dont want the problem of water in my cabin or engine so I stay off of trails where water is deeper than a foot or so

     

    The cab intake seems like a unique and good idea but noise would be a huge issue no?

    For wheelin' in water it would serve a purpose: I don't know why anyone would wanna

    risk getting water in their cab and consequently in their engine.

    But on the badassness meter, the snorkel stills takes the cake :D

  12. oh why didn't you say sumpin...junkyard. That's the murrican way. Up here, on the vast reaches of the tundra, we more commonly refer to them as wreckers right.

     

    Lol true enough... Forgive me, my forum abbrevations are pretty much non-existent... :shrug:

    But yeah, the wreckers rarely have a R50 with fenders intact. At least around these parts. :angry:

    The only option remains NAPA... alas, the tundra be a lonely place.

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