Cuong Nguyen
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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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Oh, I forgot to mention the hubs blowing first sssh
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The yotas and patrols are passenger drops, aren't they?
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My 4x4 swap price
rough country lift arms 200
lower balljoints 54
upper balljoints 40
inner tie rods 26
outer tie rods 70
Warn Locking hubs 150
Firestone lifetime alignment 150
CV axles 200
SAW torsion bars 190
sway bar disconnects 90
parts pathfinder 700
L&P steering stage 2 355
total: 2225
Bare minimum
auto locking hubs 15
CV axles 200
transmission+t-case 500
transmission crossmember 35
spindles 100
front drive shaft 35
rear drive shaft 55
front differential 100
front crossmember 25
total 1065
welding and metal not included as well as tax. the prices vary depending on how cheap you can get the stuff for. Just a ballpark figure.
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swing out tire rack you mean... hehe
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sweet. I've already talked to one of the guys selling the heads.
88, I had to remove the upper intake to access the left valve cover. Don't think the valve could seize over time to where ti's stuck.. I guess I'll have to see when I tear everything apart.
88 rules, supr3m3 h4x0r 43v3r
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Nice find! Haven't had the time to start searching up parts since I've been tired and sleeping. Do you think the rings and bottom end will hold up with "new" heads?
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I remember when I first fired it up after it sitting for over a year that I heard loud smacking and turned her off immediately. described the problem and sound and people thought it was just bad gas and it was just knocking... I guess something something got lodged into the valves when I replaced the valve cover gaskets. I was pretty sure the timing was still on since I tore everything apart to check after I heard that craziness...
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that's the thing, I don't know how they got bent or stuck... perhaps it was from when the engine was sitting for so long...
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I found out I have bent valves... for sure #5 and #6 maybe... Might end up selling Shelly and look for another one like her. She has 170k miles.
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I think there's a how-to on removing the starter here. I used a lot of extensions to get to the starter bolts. I hated dealing with oil mess so I invested in an oil filter relocation kit.
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Why not just head to your local hardware store?
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The front diff is the last of your worries when you have a front locker.
First to go... tie rods, CVs, UCAs, then maybe the front diff
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I ran optima since they were the only gell cell sealed typed I knew at the time. I'd suggest you go with a sealed type or similar--orbitar or optima because you don't want battery acid leaking all over the place and eating up your paint... just look at my hood..
also, if you do some rough offroading, the plates inside the regular batteries can brake although it's not really common.
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I don't think it should even matter, in my honest opinion.
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looks nice. the claws remind of the x-terrains. how much do the wheels weigh?
Can't wait to see them mounted!
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Sup! I'm Cuong! Feel free to hit us up over at Texas Nissan Trucks!
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This is something for those out there who are two wheel drive and looking to convert to 4x4. This is other option to having a front drivetrain of some sort. it would be cheaper and perhaps easier to start off with 4x4 in the beginning but you live and you learn and it's a part of modding and wrenching. You're probably thinking, why not just go with a solid axle swap? Well, some people do not realize how much money is involved in one. You think it's cheap? Not one bit. I know from personal experience. Anyways, you can pick up most of these parts from people who swapped to a solid front axle for relatively cheap if not dirt free.
Majority of the swap is mostly bolt except for the front differential. The two wheel drive pathfinders lack the rear frame mounts for the front diffrential crossmember. There are two crossmembers that the front diff sits on and the 2wd has only one--the main one that holds the front suspension together. you're going have to fabricate some mounts/brackets in order to securely mount the front differential. Everything else needed for the swap is basically common sense stuff which I hope all of you have. If not, I highly suggest you pick up a FSM or at least a Chilton's or Haynes or equivilent at the bare minimum. I can do the swap in probably two days by myself with hand tools. One day is pushing it if I started in the morning. As for those who have never tackled such a job. Expect a week at most so make sure you have another vehicle to get around in.
What you will need:
front differential/axle with corresponding gear ratio to match the rear
axle shafts
manual hubs--the autos will work fine but you might as well upgrade to the manuals right now
front spindle/hub assemblies (optional but recommended: new rotors/turned w/ new brakes)
front drive shaft
rear one piece drive shaft
corrresponding transmission with transfer case
shifter assembly and accessories
Speedometer cable (?)
PB Blaster or similar
Jacks
2 set of jack stands
Optional but recommended:
upper ball joints
lower ball joints
Lift UCAs
Aftermarket torsion bars
steering upgrade
rear main seal
transfer case gear oil
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I think you're forgetting something.... Trailmaster lift. Anyone can fit 35's without a problem if you stack lifts.
Oh Steve, how are you going about converting to 4wd? Are you going the stock route or SAS?
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it's common. do a search and you'll pull up lots of thread as to how it was fixed. requires lots of welding and plating.
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welcome fellow texan!
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Brake fluid or power steering fluid... but it would seem like it'd be brake fluid.. check to see if any of your brake lines or your MC is leaking...
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What RedPath said... ATF. That's what I've been using since I got my path. So where exactly is it leaking out of?
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the oil cooler is a pretty simple install... The instructions that come with it is pretty general and is about all you need..
I mounted my cool to the rear of the AC condenser. You're going to have to remove your radiator to access the location as well as route the cooler lines. Hopefully you bought the biggest size cooler if you plan on bypassing your stock cooling unit.
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The spacer 88 is referring to is the thrust block. They're only found in the open diff rear ends. When I swapped to disks, I didn't even bother removing the thrust block out. Others have done the same and have had no problems about it. Others say you need to remove it but I have yet to hear of a problem with keeping them in.
NGK wires and plugs
in The Garage
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wires are wires and plugs are just plugs. Just stick to NGKs and you'll be fine. NGKs have a protectiving coating to prevent them from rusting over. Not too sure about any other plugs. Plus NGKs are stock on Nissans and most Imports.