Cuong Nguyen
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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen
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pulled up the threads
in previous post
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buy yourself a bike.
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many thanks guys
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I'm not at home so I don't have the link to the website nor do I have my FSMs. Can anyone post me the link to the website where I can download the FSMs for my Pathfinder and Xterra for free? I need to finish up on my wiring schematics for my conversion.
Much thanks appreciated!
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What do I call Shelly? I call her a bitch and POS but we get along well when she doesn't give up on me.
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the boosters are the same, just not hte master cylinder.
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inside the cab or outside? if it's outside, than that's just the drain for the evaporator. if you're leaking in side, that means the drain is stopped up. you'll need to remove the drain hose and poke through it carefully to dislodge whatever is clogging it.
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I found out the problem... My battery clamps are rusted to crap so I was getting poor contact with the battery terminals. I'm going to have to find me a new set. Thanks for the help guys
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I was driving home from far far away and suddenly she dies on me. I tried starting her over but she wouldn't fire up. At that moment, I thought my timing belt went out on me. So I get a local wrecker from back home to get me home. Totally not easy on the wallet.
Anyhow, I finally got the chance to check her out. I pulled my dizzy cap off and noticed that my rotor screw came out??! WTF? I can't recall if it was still aligned when I pulled it off or not but I saw marks on the rotor where the screw had hit it.
Started to pull stuff apart to see if my timing belt was intact....and it was! With my god-forsakened luck all the timing marks are aligned TDC without me having to remove the timing belt and setting the cams and crank to TDC. Call me stupid if that's normal, but it's been awhile since I've last touched her.
Now, I'm thinking, I'm such a dumbass and should've checked my compression before pulling stuff off to check the timing belt.
So, the million dollar questions....
If the rotor to have moved incorrectly, could I have $#&%ed something up? I was going about 65 mph at the time.
Could a dead/weak battery cause her not to fire up? Same thing with a bad alternator?
Suggestions?? I gotta leave back to my duty station tomorrow at least and very very early sunday morning at the latest.
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yeah, Steeve-O completed his swap. I haven't yet. Too many problems happening to me, but he did his with no problems.
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I just have some Pioneers 5x7s back there. Had to drill some holes for them though. They almost bottom out in the ceiling. You're better off just making a spacer for it if you want to use those 6x9s although you will not be able to put the speaker cover/grill back on.
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noice! learned something new!
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exhaust routing is the same.
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I want to say he's referring to a couple of bolts towards the front of the tranny pan. The cooler lines are in the way to get to it. I didn't have much trouble use a 1/4" ratchet and extension.
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if put on correctly they are better then rubber ones.
:bow:
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I didn't have to remove any exhaust piping to get to the pan. It's a whole bunch of 10mm bolts. Drain the fluid first, of course, and slowly remove the pan. You won't be able to drain all the fluid out of the pan so have a drip pan ready. The pan has a magnet at the outlet of the filter. clean the magnet of metal shavings. the filter itself is not hard to remove. You will need a new gasket. Only special tool is a gasket scraper. I don't really like the cork gaskets. To me, they don't seem to seal well.
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You should really look into the Kumho Venture MTs. They're great MT tires along with the price and do well on the road and off.
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Well I'm almost done with the botch job. Used a rattle can and didn't realized I picked up the wrong stuff and started spraying. Thought I had picked up the primer... but ended up being paint. oh well. I didn't tape the area off and went at it. Yeah, it looks like crap, but it should keep her from rusting
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Mud and crap tends to accumulate in the spark plug areas since it has no where else to go....
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I too found out the hard way. You have to remove the fender to be able to take it out and replace it.
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A lot of wiring to get it to work although most of the wire from your pathy will work with it.
You'll need a manual ECU although you could possibly trick your auto ecu. I don't have the time to figure out how the manual and auto ecu's differ though to tell you how it could work....
The pinout on the ECUs should be similar so it's just a matter of you swapping some plugs from the 95 onto yours. Maybe you'll have to add some wiring if there any any additional sensors.
In thought, it should be a relatively easy swap. I've already figured out how to get my swap working. Only thing left is to get plan out all the wiring I have left.
Just remember that little detail that slick found out when using an auto engine and trying to mate it with the flyweel of a manual.
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Check all your door switches. Then check your door lock timer. Usually the relay goes bad from all the bouncing around. It's located behind the rear driver side quarter panel.
Raido install questions....again...
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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There are two amps, if you have a 93, one of the amp is directly behind the radio unit. the other amp is located in the rear passenger quarter panel. You'll have to remove the panels in order to get to it.