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Cuong Nguyen

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Posts posted by Cuong Nguyen

  1. I bought the Equus electric model. $50. Only thing additional is the wire to hook it up. The send has another prong so you can hook up your stock oil pressure dummy light to it. I'm still trying to find where my wire is to test it.

     

    Our VG30e reads 9 PSI at idle and I think 55-65 psi at 3200 RPMS no load.

    I'm running a z31 oil pump that is suppose create more oil pressure (FSM states 11 PSI at idle) but I do not think the pump itself is doing that so probably using the pump was just a waste (the timing belt covers and water pumps do not fully seal the timing belt--mix and match parts)

  2. As for your alternator, Since you have a new one in, you should be okay for a long while. It doesn't hurt to have a spare with you.


    I'm not sure where the front or rear breather tubes vent to but it doesn't hurt to get them out higher or somewhere it doesn't ingest water.


    Either way works for your ECU, it's total preference. Definitely must do as these pathfinders are getting harder to source in the junkyard.



    For me, if I'm water to soak my ECU, I'm already in trouble.


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  3. Sometimes a lifter will collapse; meaning the fluid(oil)contained within it, essentially leaks out because of the pressure of the rest of the valve train pushing on in. You mentioned it sat for 5 years. In that amount of time,easily one of those lifters could have "collapsed": how long has it been back in operation and "running"?

     

    By using the tranny fluid, it may be a simple way of getting the required fluid back into the lifter WITHOUT having take half ur engine apart to get to the culprit lifter. Try this method first before delving into more advanced troubleshooting. If ur explanation is correct, the "tapping" DEcreases at low RPM's, which should mean the lifter is not being "hammered" by the cam's slower revolutions.

     

    All the tension in the valve train is produced by the valve spring itself: that may also be the problem. If you used the original valve springs for the rebuild, one of them may be failing or have failed. Unless you had actually checked all of them, you probably made the assumption that they were all good (understandable-they don't fail very often).

     

    Depending on your mechanical skill level, use the "Stethoscope" method to determine on which side the suspect valve is, pop off that valve cover and check for any obvious issues: cam, springs or anything that may not look kosher.

     

    Replacing the spring is relatively straight forward but there are certain specific tools you will need. Try the tranny fluid first and see if there is any change. It won't happen immediately so run it gently for a day on so and see what the results are. Good luck and advise of results. Cheers, V.

    It's been running fine as I've been driving it for almost 800 miles now. It was just odd that all of a sudden it was loud rapid tapping/ticking for a few minutes and went away. I may pull the valve train off again and check things over again and see the cause. I'm going to install the oil pressure gauge later this week so I can monitor how the oil flow is.
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