schro

Has anyone actually done before and after dyno tests to see the results from increasing exhaust pipe diameter, or installing high flow cat/muffler/headers? How about fuel economy? Or has Nissan actually tuned the stock exhaust system effectively? I'm looking for measured numbers, not just anecdotal, unconfirmed conjecture and heresay.

I have already ordered the headers. I have to re-fit my whole exhaust system anyways. I'll be salvaging the cat and replacing my muffler with a used one, but I have to make mods due to corrosion and damage, and will eventually replace all as needed (besides I already convinced the wife headers were necessary - but really they are ) I know pacesetters are not great (I've already recieved a set that I am returning, they are going to ship me replacements AFTER they inspect them to ensure that they are built within tolerances this time, and are going to ceramic coat them at reduced cost) I need to get a new flange welded onto the muffler that I got from the wrecker, and get a couple or few hangers. Honestly this looks like the most cost effective route. It is going to cost less than a full stock system, possibly the same $ if I get header wrap (which I will likely do anyways)

This will not guarantee the appropriate size. Do not do this. The correct sized clip can ONLY be determined when you are assembling the joint due to some variability in the machining of the yokes. The bearings need to be pressed into the yoke until the correct tolerances for freeplay are obtained, and only then can you find the correct c-clip size.

The colors coorespond to different thicknesses. The factory sevice manual has the information that you need. The bearings (cups with needle rollers inside) press onto the journal (+ shaped piece in the centre of the joint) The tolerances for journal to bearing freeplay are adjusted with the appropriately sized snap rings. it is important that matching pairs are used on opposite sides of the journal so that the journal is centred in the joint. I have a '95 and did mine today. the freeplay for the front propeller shaft, journal to bearing on a '95 are 0.02mm (0.0008") or less. The freeplay tolerances for your model year should be in the appropriate factory service manual which you can find in the pinned topic at the beginning of the Garage forum listings. EDIT: I checked the FSM for your vehicles freeplay spec. and it is the same as the '95 The subsection that you are looking for is 'PD Propeller Shaft and Differential Carrier' Make sure that you seat the bearing in the yoke so that there is no play on either side of the c-clip (FSM makes this clear) If this does not fix your vibration problem, go pick up an inexpensive dial guage and chech the shaft for runout (once again instructions in FSM)

Or at least you know what should be done so that you can instruct the shop EXACTLY what work you would like done and what questions to ask. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I'm doing my own. I'm replacing the pressure plate and throw bearing, as well as the mainshaft oil seal (since I'm in there), and had my flywheel resurfaced (lots of glazeing) Additionally, I will be applying RTV sealant to all mating surfaces, and replacing a cracked throw bearing fork boot to keep it all watertight. I don't trust anyone else to work on my truck since the last 2 times I had that done I found shortcomings (incorrect assembly, and missing parts!)

dropped the oil pan and removed the oil pump. Cleaned both and inspected oil pump clearances. I've got this much taken off already, so it made sense to do it while I'm in there.

4 broken studs (extracted easily. threads were clean, so once I drilled them I was able to spin them out ) both manifold warped (1 - 2 mm gap between manifold and head with a LOT of carbon buildup) Quote for planing was Can$50 to Can$70 per side (+ 12% HST) depending on severity of warp. Y pipe flanges badly damaged at manifolds, need to replace rusty y-pipe. replacing with replaned stock parts... $140 for paned manifolds (approx, taxes in) $40 manifold to head gaskets $200 Y-pipe (or from a wreck?) $10 gaskets manifold to downpipe $390 for stock hardware? Maybe headers with Y pipe and gaskets would be a cost effective alternative! Or at least that's how I can sell my wife on headers plus another $50 all studs, nuts, washers, y-pipe to cat gasket etc.

ordered my transmission rebuild kit yesterday. Just cracked the tranny open today.

dropped the flywheel off at the machine shop today, and received my new clutch from UPS

Today I cleaned the exterior of my Transfer case. Yesterday I pulled off the clutch and flywheel (gotta get it turned)

I've removed the rocker covers in preparation for doing the timing belt, and the varnish build-up is gross! Before draining the oil I used an engine flush, but it doesn't seem to have done much. I have the front diff and carrier removed because I've also dropped the tranny, so I'm not concerned about any product running down through the oil channels, since the oil pan is accessible to be removed. My only concern is that the product is safe for the valve stem seals etc. I tried using the engine flush full strength applied with a brush to the rockers to little avail. Likewise varsol applied with a brush didn't work very well either. Both methods removed small amounts of the varnish, but this method would be very time consuming and tedious. Can anyone suggest a practical solution?

] I removed mine yesterday by this method.From the wheel well, with the apron removed you have direct line of sight. (shop towels stuffed into exhaust ports to keep debris out) 2 broken studs here, rearmost exhaust port viewed from right wheel well 2 broken studs here, front exhaust port on left side viewed from left wheel well (sorry for the glare, not a great pic) you can see your drill bit placement better. You can apply even controlled pressure to your drill. I chucked up a 12" long bit driver extension into my cordless drill, with a 1/4 hex 3/16" bit (like you would use in an impact driver) Drilling was fast and easy, and extracting them was a piece of cake.I was seriously concerned about this job, and had budgeted a lot of time to do it. I had all 4 studs out in a bit over 1 hour. BTW. Loyds brand 'Moovit' penetrating lube was what I used. I didn't try anything else so I can't offer a comparison to PB Blaster or other, but it worked great!DEFINITELY if you can, go in through the wheel well.

I removed the transmission today. The only problem encountered so far was the frame to transmission carrier bolts. I was able to do it all without any help. I figured that it would be a bitch to replace. I plan on calling a couple of friends, renting a transmission hoist, and buying pizza and beer for when I get to that point. In the meantime, I have to buy a rebuild kit. The clutch will arrive this week. Wish me luck.

Removed exhaust manifold studs (4 broken). Removed rear torsion bar carrier in proparation for dropping transmission. cleaned old gasket material from water pump and left side exhaust manifold to head (will do the other exhaust manifold mounting surface after work some time this coming week) Drank beer and admired my work!

Thanks RoDy, I have done most of the prep to remove the transmission. I have other jobs I'm doing at the same time (exhaust sytem rebuild - putting on headers, timing belt, etc. so I have done everything described in that post including removing the front diff and diff carrier. I have soaked all of the transmission mounting and carrier bolts in penetrating oil until tomorrow (weather permitting) and am ready to drop the tranny. That post was usefull inasmuch as I will probably use the tie-down strap/ piece of wood trick to support the back end of the engine. To lower the tranny I will probably use a strap with an engine hoist with the boom through the passenger side door, and the strap through the shifter opening. That will leave me with more room under the vehicle for a trolley jack if I need one to balace the load. Once again, weather permitting I will be doing this tomorrow. I plan to post my progress in 'the garage'. Wish me luck. BTW. Today I removed my exhaust manifold studs (4 broken) watch for my post. It went REALLY well!

pulled the seats and front carpet to remove the shifters and boot in preparation for removing the transmission (dropped the front diff yesterday)... ...then stood with one hand in my pocket while holding a beer in the other, and looked at the job I've got ahead of me.

I have not been able to find much online about people rebuilding their own trannys, in fact information is very thin. If I can bring myself to getting greasy fingers on my digital camera I will try to document my progress once I start and post my results and impressions. Unless anyone has any more information on this forum I will try calling a few transmission shops locally to see if I can find someone helpful enough to let me know about model year compatibility. Thanks for the replies that I've gotten so far. Hearing no bad news is almost as good as good news.

4th gear syncro grinds EVERY TIME, regardless of the driver, unless I double-clutch. This is why I will be doing the rebuild.

Quoted from a site selling custom transmission configurations... source: http://www.cpboost.com/Nissan-Skyline-300ZX-5MT-Dog-Engagement-FS5R30A-Cpcbgnissns300zx5mtdefs5r30a.htm "The Nissan FS5R30A transmission is fitted to a number of performance RWD and 4WD vehicles including the BNR32 and BCNR33 Skyline GTR and non-performance high torque applications in vehicles such as the Patrol/Safari and Pathfinder. A number of changes have been made throughout the transmission life by Nissan, mainly multiple revisions of the 4th gear synchronizer baulk ring and hub assembly to facilitate better shift feel and minimize grinding under fast shifts. Although the FS5R30A has a very high torque capacity, 3rd gear is the weakest link and tends to fail in vehicles with alot of horsepower and performance clutches." As this description would indicate I have a problem with a damaged 4th gear syncro that grinds unless I double-clutch. This is why I will be doing the rebuild. My concern is that I will be installing an aftermarket performance clutch and tow hitch, and I don't want to blow things up while towing a camping trailer up the Coquihalla Hwy. (it would be a long climb at high revs in 3rd gear). I am not doing any major mods to the engine so I likely will not have a problem due to excessive horsepower, but if later model-year versions of the rebuild kit are compatible and afford the benefit of overcoming some of the shortcomings of a '95 FS5R30A then I would like to use the later model revision rebuild kit.

Regarding the FS5R30A Aside from the repositioned oil fill hole in the post '96 case casting addressing the lubrication problem mentioned in the TSB on this transmission, does anyone know of any other changes that have been made to different model years of this transmission? Part of the reason for my asking is that I have been trying to find a rebuild kit for my '95 WD21 tranny. I have found a kit for this transmission, but the seller advertises it as being for '98 and later. Do the later models of this tranny address the weakness of 3rd. gear? (I plan on putting in a higher performance clutch for better towing capability)

1995 WD21, 238000Km I have to do something about my leaking exhaust manifold. My Pathy has been getting progressively louder, which leads me to conclude that the manifolds are badly warped and in need of replacement (ie: beyond machining flat). Additionally, new manifolds are going to run about $100 a side before shipping and gaskets (I expect about $280 to $300 all in, excluding studs) Please note: COST IS AN ISSUE, PLEASE DON'T RECOMMEND THE MOST EXPENSIVE OPTION. I've got a baby on the way. I've heard good things about the Thorleys, but I have not found any deals. I read a post on these forums about the OBX headers, they look great, and I'm able to get them for $225 (including shipping) but that would also involve about $350 (tax in) custom Y pipe fabrication. What about the Pacesetters? I have read an unfavourable comment or 2 about them, but what is the issue with them? The price looks good at about $235 + shipping. Any other recommendations? This truck is my daily driver, and my only off-road excursions are usually on logging and park access roads for back-country skiing, and camping. Nothing that has so far required any suspension mods (this would be less than 5% of my driving) I expect to get another 100,000Km out of this vehicle (after I do the clutch, water pump, oil seals and timing belt) My cat, muffler and tailpipe will still pass B.C. provincial emissions tests, so I want to wait to replace them. P.S. If you do exhaust work in the lower mainland area, I can work out a contra deal with you. I install Draft beer systems for a living... ...Need a kegerator?

Try Nissan camiones in mexico. Let me know what you find, I'm interested in a swap as well.

I finally convinced the wife of the practicality of taking the car off the road and selling it, and re-insuring the Pathfinder. (she will need to learn to drive standard.) In fact... last week she suggested that we do it, so I believe that she thinks that it is her idea. (I always hated that little f'n Hyundai)

I have an intermittent problem with my '95 pathfinder not starting. I have replaced the starter solenoid after which it worked fine with no symptoms for about 2 weeks. Then it died again, and I had to bump start it to get home. I went to the auto wrecker and pulled a starter from another '95 and did the swap, after which it worked fine for a week and now has just died again. Methinks that the problem is not with the starter, but the intermittent nature of the problem is making it difficult to diagnose. When I turn the wipers on they run at a good speed, and resting battery voltage is 12.6V (the battery is only a year old, good quality Interstate battery) so I don't think that the problem is with the battery or charging system. Does not start with jumper cables either. I'm thinking it must be a computer/sensor switch issue. Maybe a faulty safety interlock switch or maybe ignition switch or relay somewhere... Any ideas?

Awesome, thanks for the specs. I've already called to check a supplier. In Vancouver area (Burnaby) it looks like they will have what I need. I don't know if they have a minimum order, but I will post details and price when I get the info. Cheers,