schro

Okay, so Performance Accessories has body lift kits for 1990 and earlier... A.C. modifies those kits for '93 to '95 The cost is over Can$200 I can go to "North Shore Off Road" and get the spacer blocks to make my own lift for $5 each, and I can get metric grade 5 bolts from Pacific Fasteners in Burnaby... The only thing I need to know is the specs on the bolts for a 2" lift, ie: length, diameter, and thread pitch. . Anyone?.... anyone?... failing that I'll use grade 5 or 8 redi-rod and jam nuts (thread pitch?)

I'm having some unusual problems with my headlamps that I suspect may be due to a faulty daytime light module. I would like to test the unit first before shelling out Can$128.00 to the stealership for a new one. the symptoms are as follows: with headlamp switch off, daytime lights do not come on (as they should) with headlamp switch on, only one headlamp illuminates (no...it is not the bulb) and high-beam warning light on console comes on. with high-beam switched on only one headlamp comes on as high-beam (no...it is not the bulb) and high-beam warning light on console comes on as it should. This started as an occasional intermittent problem and gradually became more frequent, until now it rarely works properly. Has anyone encountered a similar problem before, or alternatively, do you know how to test the running light module? 1995 WD21 Cheers, Schro

I'm trying to convince my wife that it will be cheaper for me to re-insure my sport bike. Use the pathy for work (smallest vehicle I could get that would cover my work needs) and put my Suzuki SV650S back on the road.

From browsing through the factory service manual I noted that the position/setting of the steering bump stops on the steering knuckle need to be adjusted slightly when you go to 31x10.5 tires. This setting will slightly adjust your steering angle, and consequently increase your turning radius. (snapshot from service manual) I imagine that some of the other members on this forum have gone to larger tires without making the steering stop adjustment, and I would be interested to find out what if any problems they have experienced (ie: what rubbed?)

that looks pretty cool. my pathfinder would still be under 6' 10'' with that on top.

What is "seafoam"? link?

188K and counting. Runs great! got it a little over a year ago with 147000.... may not last long (sob!)

Can't, but I'd like to come so post again when you go out. This weekend I'm going backcountry skiing!! (gotta get it while we still gots snow) I'd like to also do a 'Pick A Part' run if I got the time

Lots of trees in the 'Wack. With lots of grabby branches. If everything fits, I would just put it all inside (lots of space) But...cargo racks do look cool...And if you are adding lights up there it's no different to your clearance (must parking garages are 6'10", if it's any less be carefull!) Crappy tire sells a cargo rack. Doesn't look the best, but not too shabby, and relatively cheap. If you got the $ check out "Rack Attack" on west 3rd. Ave in Vancouver, they sell Thule and Yakima

In my case it was (or rather - is, as in still in progress) a lot of work. I have a '95 with the 8 speaker factory Clarion system, with 2 blown speakers. The speakers I purchased (5" x 7") were not compatible with the factory sizes. I pulled the ceiling liner out to remove the metal speaker mounting in the rear. Marked and cut out the new holes with a sabre saw. The replacement speaker grills did not cover the existing holes in the ceiling liner, so I fabricated some flanges that match the new grills colour to cover the voids in the liner. I removed the factory amps and ran new wires directly from the head unit. In the rear I will just use the new 2 way speakers as is. Since the factory system does not have a proper crossover, and I would like to use the factory tweeters up front, I am running new wires from the head unit to a crossover for each side, with wires then run to the door speakers, and the pillar mounted tweeters. I have not had time to do the doors yet, but I don't expect it to go smoothly. I will end up with a 6 speaker system when I'm done. My logic behind running new wires is if I choose to install aftermarket amps at a later date I don't have to worry about using those piddly little feeble wires that are run with the factory system. I was told that my new head unit would probably (possibly/maybe) work with the factory amps, but just in case I pulled them out. I would rather do it right than do it twice. That said, if you're not changing the head unit, just match your speaker size and haveatter, should be a breeze. Also, If you don't have the 8 speaker Clarion Factory system you can probably ignore a lot of what I've just said.

I've read a lot in the postings about what can be done for suspension lift for a '95 (WD21) I originally considered a torsion bar crank, upper 'A' arm, new shocks, and JGC coils, but I would like to know what problems to expect with this setup. after taxes this setup will likely cost me Can$ 525-550 (275-300 for the 'A' arm, 50 for the coils, and 50 per corner for the shocks) By comparison the kit from Calmini runs about Can$ 900 after taxes and includes all of the above, plus HD torsion bars, new upper ball joints and a drop bracket for the "track bar" (is this panhard?), all in lovely blue powdercoat. But coming up with this much coin at one drop is a bit heavy If the cheaper setup is not going to cause any problems then I may go that route, but if I should expect problems with weak ball joints, or soft torsion bars, or less than ideal fit I would like to know, and I will consider a kit. My only concern with the Calmini kit aside from the one time cost is, what about those ball joints, they are not OEM compatible, so if something happens to one, I am at the mercy of Calmini's less than stellar shipping history, and waiting for a replacement instead of a quick trip to Lordco for a Moog replacement. Give me some feedback on your experiences. Have you used the Calmini kit or not? What worked best for you? What did not work? Cheers, Schro.