amo1dun
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Posts posted by amo1dun
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yes i did... so that means my ecu erased the codes am I right?
IIRC, i think its 50 engine starts or - side of battery disconnection to erase stored ecu codes....may be the same with trans test
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So I did another code check on the POWER light, and at first it just kept on flashing like crazy....and it didnt stop. so I did the procedure again and now it keeps one paused flash then 10 quick ones. And did another one on the ECU and got only 1 code 55. Any idea? as now my truck is in no movement whatsoever...
Did you unplug the - side of the battery or have a dead battery since u posted that
codes were present?
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I think Im going to blow it up tonight and put it on youtube...
anybody want the spoiler its a nice one?
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Yep, best to replace the whole assembly, part # for your truck is 17040-WD21001
If you do just want a new cap piece with the wire tail; http://www.courtesyparts.com/25060-gauge-assy-unitfuel-tank-pathfinder-wd21-07/1986-08/1987-w/2d-2wd4wd-cyl-07/1986-08/1987-w/2dv/2d-4wd-p-540051.html?cPath=5572_5573_5590_5595&
Most vehicles you HAVE to buy the entire assembly.
I aint buying one new thats for sure. -
When you took the fuel pump out... The thing it's connected to that actually bolts to the tank. That piece. Where the wires go through it, the little round "buds" on the top, they short in there. You don't need to re-wire the whole truck or replace the whole fuel system, I guess some things are harder to explain over the Internet
So from what I described you think the sending unit/harness assembly is the culprit? It does only blow the 10a fuse when the harness is connected...but why wont it blow a 15a fuse and still not allow the pump to energize?
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NOpe, gauge can still work, that wiring still gotta go from the plug to the pump for the pump to actually work and it IS a 20 year old chunck of metal with wires runnin through it. I've had to do it on 2 different d21s I had for the same reason. Takes a little more juice to run the pump than the gauge
what exactly are you saying? You think I need the whole intank assembly w/ harness? I dont even think they sell that @!*%
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The float assembly for the fuel pump shorts out, in turn pops the fuse. When you did the fuel pump did you replace JUST the fuel pump or the float assembly and all?
Just the pump....and what do you mean the float assembly shorts out? That would just mean the gauge wouldn't work, correct? Gauge works
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89 Pathfinder 4x4 Auto
ok here we go....
About 2 months ago while driving down a hill, decelarating, and taking a turn the truck shut off. Fuel pump fuse was blown...had a spare 10a, put it in and ran until...
Last weekend the 10a fuel pump fuse started blowing when trying to start, wont start. Unplugged FP connector, key in the on position or cranking doesnt pop a 10a fuse. Plug in FP connector pops 10a fuse and the Pump wont run. Put in a 15a...doesnt pop with the fp connected, but pump wont run. Swapped FP relays and pops a 10a but not a 15a but the pump wont run. Inspect harnesses, no visual damage or shorts that i can see. Confirm battery voltage at fp connector with key on(while connected) with 15a fuse in. Install new FP and 10a fuse and guess what
the fuse pops and the PUMP WONT RUN! 
Hotwire old pump for @!*%s and giggles and it runs. Dont think its a dead short, not blowing 15a. Now im thinking Crank Sensor and/or circuit or ecu is toast. Ecu has to get a 1deg signal from the CAS for the pump to turn on(when the key is turned to on position)
Im losing it here...anyone with some insight
Pathfinders pffffhhhh
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So I did the test for the trans. the way amo1dun said, and so this is what happened:
1 solid flash (but it was a slow one compared to the others)paused then 2 flashes paused then 8 really quick flashes.
what code is that?
I also did the self diagnostic test with the ECU and got code 14 and code 33
anyone has a pic as to where the vehicle speed sensor is located?
and what to do about the "heated oxygen sensor" and how many oxygen sensors does the PF have? as my dad's neon has 2 OX sensors
Thanks guys...
If the 2nd flash on the power light is staying lit longer than the others then thats the VSS.
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mm, ok cool thanks for the replys... now how about do I go to check "that" code?
This is the trans test For a 92 Path...others are similar. Keep in mind when my POWER light started flashing I ran the test right at that time it started flashing and it gave a trouble code...After that one instance, the POWER light was normal upon startup thereafter, and a trouble code was and still wont display upon testing.
I cant find a reference on if it stores a code for a period of time. After the last step when you depress the accelerator, read your power(OD)light. There will be a start signal and 10 judgement flickers after that. Count the flickers...when it holds a flash(for like 2 seconds) thats your trouble code.If it starts, then blinks 10 times normally, there's no trouble code.
1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Set power shift switch to AUTO
position. Set overdrive switch to ON position and move selector lever
to "P" position. Turn ignition switch to ON position, but DO NOT start
engine. If power shift indicator lamp comes on for about 2 seconds, go
to next step.
2) Turn ignition switch to OFF position. Push shift lock
release button. Move selector lever to "D" position and set overdrive
switch to OFF position. Turn ignition switch to ON position, but DO
NOT start engine. Wait for more than 2 seconds, after turning ignition
switch ON, and move selector lever to "2" position.
3) Set overdrive switch to ON position and move selector
lever to "1" position. Set overdrive switch to OFF position. Depress
accelerator pedal to floor and release. Power shift indicator lamp
will flash trouble code.
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Yes, that's where it mounts to the exhaust. It plugs in to a harness on the passenger side of the engine bay. Good thing is, TBI O2 sensors don't do that much drive ability-wise.
Check to make sure the TPS sensor plug didn't come undone, or wires didn't break. If it's good, pull the plug off and make sure there's no corrosion on/in the contacts.
Does it smell rich, or use more fuel than normal? Also, check damn well to make sure there's no arching of the coil wire... it will mess with you for days and will make you feel like an idiot for dinking around with everything else when a piece of electrical tape can fix the problem.
This is what mine did with a slightly arching coil wire, which was brand new by the way.
Dude thats too funny..I watched your video on the engine cutting out like 2 months ago. Anyways, Im not really a believer in false trans codes, If it was throwing the power light( and it has 3 times in the last 2 months) on startup for the TPS, then it has to be reading a discrepancy somewhere in the circuit
But still cant get a 43 out of the ecu I just dont want to start pulling connectors. cant the TPS throw Idle Engine Speed and Ignition Timing off if you dont test it accordingly, including unplugging the IAC valve and following certain steps on testing and adjusting? -
alright cool, mine is yellow for some reason but this one is blue, i'm trying to figure out wtf was done there
I just did mine recently and it was yellow
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check your O2 sensor before the TPS. The easiest way is to just unplug it under the hood and see if driveability improves. sometimes they don't trigger a trouble code in the ECU when they go bad.
Tried this already...and its actually screwed in the front pipe on my 89.
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OK I just got the part from the dealership, it looks like this:
Can someone verify that this is the correct part?
That is a cylinder head temp sensor or an engine coolant temperature sensor(same thing)...Its definetely not the one for the gauge (That has 1 male end)
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Stupid 89 Pathfinder 4x4 98K miles Automatic
Hesitates No power in 1st noticeably sometimes(like im pulling a damn tree), needle on tach gauge fluctuates( wont hold steady speed you can see it backing off on the gauge and when it shifts from 1st to 2nd sometimes slingshots below 1000rpm sputters bad and wants to cut out but never stalls) Usually happens after im stopped at a light, then takeoff again or when taking turns at slow speeds then accelerating again.
I got a flashing power light yesterday when I turned the key(Not the normal flash, the one that says my @!*% is being stupid) Did the A/T test and got the 3rd judgement flicker on the power light...which is TPS shorted or disconnected. Checked ECU also and shows 55 everything ok. Power light flashes normally now and has since then.
Cat is good
Tranny Fluid looks good newer tranny with cooler(f'n better be)
Plugs Wires cap rotor fuel filter at last oil change
MAF is clean
Can someone help with some steps to test the tps and adjust it if necessary?
THanks as always
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Hows it flashing,aome flash once on starrt up.If its running fine and theres nothing wrong with the transmission(low fluid,metal in the pan.Then I'd chalk it up as a mystery code.
Usually light illuminates briefly( a second or two)
Got in yesterday and it flashed repeatedly for idk maybe a good 10 seconds.
Did this twice yesterday.
Today seems normal, illuminated briefly
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Hey all...
89 Path AT 95k mi
Turned the key and the power light started flashing...f'n pissed me off. New tranny has 12k on it, auxiliary cooler,
and seems to go thru all the gears ok. I know there is a way to test the tranny just cant find the info. Can someone help me with the AT self test please...??
THanks
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I got it! Cylinder Head Temp Sensor is all good! without having to take off the tbelt cover!
Removed pulley bracket(Thanks to MY1PATH) See his post above for steps to remove its very easy. Using a maglite, locate the sensor behind the cover. Unplug the connector(Their is a metal clip holding the connector on) Once off, I cut 1/2" off of a 6point 3/8 13/16 spark plug socket and pulled the rubber piece out of the socket and it fit perfect over the connector....Put the socket on first.(worked it behind the cover w/ my fingers and lined the points up with the nut) then used a 6" 3/8 extension and 3/8 ratchet. Used this just to loosen the sensor( until it hit the back of the cover)then it came out by hand. Putting the new 1 in...Hand tightened the sensor and used needlenose pliers until it was in far enough to work the socket back on, then the extension. Tightened it up, plugged the connector back in, Put the belt and bracket back on and thats it....No more code 13, code 55 all good! Running alot better!
(Pulley bracket off, Sensor is behind the curve in the cover in the pic...follow that harness next to the cap down)
(Temp Sensor removed)
( You can see how close it is to the cover...Hand tighten until you can get the socket back on)
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Im just outside of Hartford!
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losten the pulley with a 14mm wrench. (1 or 2 turns is all you need) then back off the pulley tensioner blolt just above the pulley with a 12mm untill the pulley slides down far enough to slip the belt off Just let it hang there unless u plan on driving w/ it off. The bracket will now come off with 3 bolts; 1 near the AC pump one on the opposite end of the bracket and one Hiding just below the pulley (all 12mm)
when you put the belt back on the tesion should be so that you can push the belt aprox 1" with moderate effort then you can snug the pulley nut.
Most places with have both sensors (guage & ecu) under the same listing the one for the ECU is technically a Cyl Head temp sensor (on vg30i) but you will likely not find one by that name. SO yes you will have to varify that it has a 2 lead plug before buying.
Rock Auto denotes them seprately as "sender" and "sensor" the latter being the one you want.
Hey I really appreciate it My1PATH and everyone that responded...I knew you guys would be able to help. I will do this in the next week and will take pics of every step.
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89 Pathfinder 94K miles
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I just got it! took the Idler pulley bracket off and use a needle nose and tiny screw driver to unclip the wire lead. then I slid a 19mm mid length 12point in there. A 6 point won't clear the plug a regular 19mm will not reach past the plug and a deep 19mm will hang up on the timing cover. If you only have a deep well you can cut it down till it just clears the cover. Kingman gont raped on his! 5.5 hrs of labor Ha! try an hour tops.
My connectors were coroded and the old sensor fell apart as soon as I got it out. Clean contancts & new sensor I'm hoping for the best now.
OH and It measures your Cyl head temps WITHOUT being Imersed in coolant so you don't have to drain anything and feel stupid like I did.
alos using 3/8" drive w/ extension instead of 1/2" drive will make clearing the timing cover allot easier
Great Job!!
How do you remove the idler pulley bracket? The belt and idler pulley have to be removed to get to the bracket, correct? Can you explain how you did that?
" so you don't have to drain anything and feel stupid like I did." .... Imagine how I feel....
PS- The part name when ordering is "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor" or "Water Temperature Sensor" and should have 2 leads in the connector...right?
I will definitely take pics.
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I was looking @ this today, my truck has been getting ~12mpg and poping exhuast since I got back from cali. It smells a little rich and last week it threw code 13 but has not done so again...
ANyway a shop chaged kingman 5.5 hrs of labor for his old pathy because it was underneath the intake manifold... I am hoping that if I take off the AC idler backet and maybe a coolant hose or 2 I will be able to sneak in there and change it.(reaching thru the gaps in the timing cover)
It seems awfully tight in their man...I can get my maglite to touch the sensor thru the front, but I think the angle of the sensor will make it tough to get a socket in their without removing the cover....5 1/2 hours labor at the shop to change...?
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Thank for the responses guys...Just so Im clear are these the sensors?....
Engine coolant temp sensor on top(sending unit for gauge)
Cylinder Head Temp Sensor thats buriedHow do I get to the cylinder head temp sensor..? Do I really have to take the tbelt cover off or can u sneak in by the water pump or from the top with a swivel and extension...What do you guys think, any hints?
Thanks for reponding guys
Thanks
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Rough idle during cold start up.
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by amo1dun
dude...you may have a code stored so try running an ecu test see what code its throwing if any...
ecu test link
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21
let us know what you find