amo1dun
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Posts posted by amo1dun
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Sorry to hear you wasted money on the O2 sensor, it will never make a TBI truck run bad enough to notice. They only operate above 2,800RPM and under certain parameters.
II disagree, I have an 89 tbi and when the o2 was shot and still plugged in it was by far the worst driving experience ever....it caused harsh shifting, choking, sputtering and just ran like complete doodoo!!
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U can get that off....i used a 13/16 6 point spark plug socket and hacksawed 1inch off it..read the "how to" in the garage section for "coolant temp sensor"....ur sensor is already broke off so a 13/16 1/4" socket shoud work fine...take the idler pulley bracket off, and put ur socket on first, then pop a swivel extension on the socket, then pop ur ratchet on..1/4" works well.......doing it like this u can clear the timing belt cover . Once u crack it loose youll have to ditch the socket setup and thread it out by hand, when installing the new 1 u will have a clearance issue on the tbelt cover, so u can thred it in by hand and use some needlenose or whatever to start it until u can get that socket back o, then ur swivel, then ur ratchet ...hope this helps you!
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I do not know, but today i found an entirely new problem. havnt found out what it is but it making me mad. So today i start my truck and this time its running ruff. it started fine and idled a bit high then it was just ruff running so i drove it to the shoppett like 1/4 of a mile and it was sluggish and still ruff. So in the parking lot i opened the hood and pulled te air filter off and it ran a bit better, got me 3 miles to work and back. now it seams to be a spark, fuel or dirty top end. if i leave it idle when its cool it will almost die out so i have to goose the gas a bit. all this time there is hardly any power in the motor when up shifting it sputters and seams like its either out of gas or not enuph air to fuil mix. wish i knew a good mechanic as a friend that could come over and trouble shoot with me.
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ya i saw that 1 and shouldve got it...but im a cheap ass. I think im going to splice that single wire connector to this one.So you need these connectors...
I'd return the one you have and order one with the right connectors. The one pictures above is the BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1564372
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I think you got the wrong one.
Part #sg445 from whom? What year do you have>?
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Rockauto...where else. Its an 89 tbi
then , just found this but thread dead
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Just got my 02 sensor in.....part#sg445....Its a 3wire sensor with an oem connector on it...The stock 02 sensor has
2 connectors that plug in (1 3wire connector and a 1 wire connector) ...wtf did i order the wrong 1 or do I splice that
single wire connector to this new one on a certain color wire...Can any1 shed some light
ps- havent pulled the old one out yet so i dont even know which wire the single connector goes to
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trying to figure out what your problem is here.....
Why cant u just go buy a ''reverse harness" for your pathfinder, they are like 10bux at best buy...that will allow you to splice an oem connector back on, then splice your deck wires to an aftermarket cd harness and plug it in .
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I've been looking around for a page that will show me very detailed info about my pathfinder. i.e. Do I have a traction control system, LSD, torque, hp, everything. i'm not even 100% positive i drive an XE.
This should help
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616
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just replace the seal...and see if the smell stops. It takes 5 minutes to swap out, just unscrew the sending unit and lift it out, swap seals and screw it back in.
a bad tank seal = smell of gas
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I hope you used the discount code found in the Classifieds/Vendor section...
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.............
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Did you check for codes on the pcm? does it stall at a light and wont start...? or does it comletely shut off while driving with no power anything?? Any fuses blow? Crank sensor?? You got any more info...
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SICK!!!!!!! that is ridiculous and I like it!
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Filled up my pathfinder completely 2 days ago. I had the front end on jacks afterwards for some underbody work, so the front end was sitting slightly higher than usual. Noticed some gas leaking out through the holes in the metal plate that protects the tank, which is just in front of the rear bumper. Put some cardboard down and it leaked through the night, maybe 5 liters/1 gallon. It isn't really leaking now.
Before I dig in there, has anyone experienced this before? Know what I may be facing?
Thanks
Pull the shield from under the tank theirs a few bolts to take out....and see if your tank is rotting
I doubt it the o-ring because you would smell gas like a mofo
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Legos are ugly as hell imo with almost 5" BS They wouldnt be that bad if they had less BS.
I just snagged some AR Outlaws with 4"BS and think they will look way better. Pics to follow when I get them mounted
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thanks ill throw some pics up when i get em on the path
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Found a dude on CL with some AR Outlaws I want to go snag them tomorrow and replace the legos..$100
THey are
6x5 1/2 lug 15x8 1/2 4" BackSpace 4 1/4 center bore offset....???
Will these work ideal?
My question is does it matter that the center bore is a little larger than the 100mm on the legos??? Is their such a thing as hub gaskets or rings to place inbetween or is that not necessary. Also, does the offset matter? Is their a quick way to check the offset? Any insight appreciated...thanks p.s. my tires are 31 10 1/2 15
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I still haven't changed the EGT sensor, my check engine light is always there.
My mileage is worst than before, is it possible it's related to the EGT sensor?
I thought the exhaust gas temp sensor was only on cali models???? I think it is dude
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I thought the tranny computer is behind a panel on the passenger side, behind the seats??
I'm pretty sure the tranny will bolt up but yes, you would need the computer for it. SC88Pathy ran into this issue when his 87 pathy tranny crapped out on him and knows it far better. Try searching with his name or PMing him but he is having computer problems and may not be on line for a few days.
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the trans computer is in the panel next to the passenger side rear speaker yes
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theirs 2 connectors right? unplug both?
one with a 3 wire lead (red white blue) and then the one with 1 lead ( black) right?
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The symptoms of a leaking O-ring are:
Smell of gas!
The bugging out at partial throttle part is sensor related. Clean your MAF sensor and possibly replace the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor.
I thought maybe it could have something to do with fuel pressure...thanks
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89 Path auto
Kind of silly question...
swapped pumps and used a sending unit from a 95 cuz the sender was blowing the pump fuse..Noticed that the o ring stretched and isnt sealing the tank well so.....
Does anyone know if a leaking o-ring at the fuel tank can cause driveability problems..Symptoms are..Bogs out and wants to stall(never does tho), also hesitation, engine drops rpm when throttles steady ?? ECU doesnt throw any codes, Seems real bad at partial throttle but WOT seems ok for the most part.
thanks for any insight
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Thanks to all that responded... Nunya you sir are the man!! Picked up a sending unit from a dude on CL swapped it out and its alive!!!! not blowing the fuse, no sputtering, no hesitation finally shes back on the road.
PS- The sending unit was from a 95 and my truck is an 89...although part #'s are different....it seems to be working just fine, it hasnt ran this good in a while
thanks
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Still have the problem.....Does anyone know if a sending unit from a 95 will swap with an 89, part numbers are different but the unit looks almost identical, 4 wires on top, 2 for the gauge 2 for the pump and a ground? Its almost ridiculous at this point...I cant get this figured out and its been over a month.
PS- Brand new fuel pump BTW
Problem:
1) Blows 10amp fuse with key on engine off
2) Doesnt blow 15amp fuse with KOEO but pump wont energize
3) Ground introduced at FP relay due to no ground signal on ecm side(supposedly )
4) Starts with 10amp, pump energized and it runs like @!*% for 1 mile then shuts off...fuse blown.
5) 15amp fuse put in and blows with key on engine off...
6) 20 amp fuse put in doesnt blow with KOEO but pump wont energize
7) Resplice FP relay back to OEM
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Engine starts but stops immediately with a 15amp fuse in place....but
1) Blows 10amp with KOEO with pump connected, doesnt blow with FP disconnected
2) Doesnt blow 15amp with KOEO
12v at FP relay with key on engine off, 12v at main harness side of FP connector but pump wont energize
88 Pathfinder, No Idle
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
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A bad coolant temp sensor can cause ur rig to start intermittently or not at all...
Did you check this ecu for codes?