alexrex20

you compared the WD to the R50, not me. when i compared the R50 to the WD, i specifically used the early VG33 models for comparison. the R50 VG33 has 170hp, so even compared to the WD VG30, it's only an increase of 17hp (or only 10hp, depending on your market). i wouldn't exactly call that a significant amount.

to replace the boot, you have to do the same amount of work (or arguably more), as just replacing the entire axle. here's what you do: remove the wheel remove the cap on your locking hubs (6 allen head bolts) remove the axle snap ring remove the locking hub (6 hex nuts) undo the lower ball joint mount (3 bolts) remove the cv axle from the differential (6 hex nuts) lower the control arm enough so that you can slide the axle out through the "A" opening in the control arm http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/

every thread you're in, it comes down to an argument about how you're the god of rig building. so tell me, is it the link or the rod end that flexes?

P/N 99545 is the handle which attaches to the end of the long rod. the T end of the long rod is inserted into the tube thingy to lower the spare tire. it is also used to raise the bottle jack. the long rod is stored under the rear seat. it's easy to overlook it.

my '00 vehicle came with the basic spare tire tool kit P/N 99596 - the little storage bag 99545 - lever handle 99618 - jack adapter 99550 - bottle jack 99613 - rod for lowering tire/lifting vehicle and here is your stupid picture; not because i want to help you, but because i want to prove you wrong.

wrong. the rod to lower the spare tire is P/N 99613 in that diagram. it's about 4ft long.

what do you mean by NO? the key needs to be programmed at the dealership.

who said anything about which design was better? it's obvious that links > leaves. we were arguing flex, and that pic clearly shows that a leaf setup can flex just as much as links.

i don't understand why you're so ignorant.

value is subjective. the H3 is heavier than the R50, but the R50 is not lightweight by any means. early R50s had the same anemic VG33 as WD21s. ...why am even arguing? it's obvious i'm dealing with ignorant, heavily biased WD or R50 fanboys...

are you an idiot? no really, are you? i was defending the WD when 01silvapathy said an R50 would outwheel it. and yes, a front/rear locked H3 Alpha will outperform an H1 on most, if not all terrain types.

you can get the H3 with a 320hp V8 and front/rear lockers (Alpha model with Adventure Package). it will easily outperform an R50.

no.

you had better be a good fabricator if you want to do it for that price

another great example of 4x4Parts.com quality service

nice save.

^^^ what he said

i still think a leaf SAS wouldn't be that bad on an R50. when it comes down to it, your link-rear/leaf-front SAS still made it up that trail that would otherwise be impassable to a front/rear-locked IFS truck.

245/75/17 is a 32in tire, so i don't think you'll clear them without a lift and without trimming some plastic.

leaf springs can flex just as much as links, if not more.

let him start it. i doubt he can finish it, especially when his argument is that an R50 will outperform a WD21... unless he meant on the highway.

even a 31in tire will rub the track bar.

true. if it weren't for the need to convert to steering box, i probably would have SAS'd my R50 after the accident. the steering is just another major hurdle i wasn't prepared to deal with.