MY1PATH

Did you check your window motors? they could be worn out. check ebay for repacement motors w/ tracks. they cost less than the dealer price and are usually built with pulleys instead of glides which makes them more durable over time. If your glides broke the motor may be tangled up with all the loose cable. check the wireing to the swtitches. I know that if you unplug the passenger switch the driverside over ride cannot move it either.

ouch. Yeah, I stand by my frame on body claim.

For 1st gen pathfinders I'd say jumping is fun and not too destructive. I've had my patfinder in the air many times, sorry no pictures; maybe oneday I'll get a friend w/ a camera, with little to no ill effects. I've gone off of quad jumps, and one day jumping up slopped housing foundations (I know I shouldn't tear up the town) my friends said I got about 6ft off the ground. Since WD21 has got a rugged overbuilt ladderbody frame with fully boxed rails I encourage jumping @ your own risk. (and post your pics its fun to see!)

if you remove your factory amp,(and take it apart) there will be marks on the circut board for all 4 speakers right where one of the harneses plugs in. use this as your guide and picup all your speaker wires form this harness. tape off the unuesd power wires for the amp and discard the amp and original wires that went form you amp to your factory stereo. your aftermarket "head" (i guess your talking about the deck) should have enough power to power all for speakers w/o the factory amp. with the amp removed you will have more room for your wiring and less wires to confuse you. this is exactly how I installed my kenwood.

I'll second that. Maybe ' e came to his senses. Or maybe his IFS fell out from under him from all the stress of those wheels and 'es to ashamed to admit it lol.

some ppl say this sounds schetchy but to help bide time untill you get your SL you can get those rubber spacers in your springs for about $8 each (you'll need 2 of course). It will stifen your ride and may bring it up a little (depending on how lively your suspention still is). I learned the hard way that the little rubber buterfly shaped ones and similar styles fall out when your suspension flexes allot, leaving you crooked. (lol duh what was I thinking) the round rubber ones that you thread into your coil seem to do the trick for stiffness tho. I haven't tried coil spacers that sit on top or bottom of your spring but those are aloso cheap and may be a better option

what size tires are those? what kinda lift did ya go will. looks mean!

Most retailers don't sell calmini because Nissan/suzuki/izzuzu is a less popular crowd so they sell kits for instead dodge/ ford/ toyota etc... because those are more common. your best bet is to call calmini directly using the link above. as far as tires, I'm running 31.50x10.50 and have had very minimal rub. After cranking the tortion bar for another inch I have no rub at all. Now I might even be able to get away with somtething like 32x10 w/o trimming. So I think you will be fine. On second thought my rims (15x7 stock american racing outlawII style) have 3.8 backspacing and the ones your looking at have 4.53 the larger backspace will put the wheel deeper into your fender well and I'm guessing may rub the frame itself in sharp turning but I'm not really sure what all it will do as far a rubbing( I doubt it will hurt anything). if you find a rim with say a 3.75-4.25 backpacing (you may have to stick w/ 15'' to find one) I know your rub issues will be minimal if at all.

I was refering to 4x4 parts 30% stiffer rate when I said too stiff. The calmin I belive would be just fine (even somoother with a bigger bumper) and can sitll be tightened to accomidate a winch.

Not Bad, I'm goona go with the Calmini 3" lift Myself. Cost a little more but it also comes with a Panhard Bar extention bracket as well as brake extentions and new upper ball joints. I think the calmini A arms look stronger. One more thought, the calmini tortion bars offer 20% increased spring rate where as 4x4 parts is 30% Allot of ppl have said this is too stiff if not running allot of extra weight in front

What contols the sift points on the automatic? I thought it was the computer. will that cause any itnterferance with the engine because it thinks it still an auto l trans?

LOL sometimes I have to goto 2nd b4 hitting reverse. anyway I think because stock 1st gen 5spd pathys were geared rediculously low it makes it hard to get into first unless @ a completed dead stop (no creeping) I usually tap the gas just a hair(with clutch in) going into first and it seems to slide right in no prob on my 89.

yeh how do you do It? Gas prices are goin up, and I wanna know! I don't even think the 4 banger paths got that

In the winter I use about 75% collant to 25% water. soposedley this helps since coolant designed as a rust inhibitor / boiling temp riser and does not disipate as much heat as water. In the summer I run 50/50 Is this wrong?

Je mets votre texte à un traducteur. Je suis désolé s'il n'a pas fait bon traslating de travail il soutient. Vous avez un problème d'alignement. Ceci est très commun pour un véhicule récemment soulevé. Aller obtenir l'a aligné. English; I put your text thru a translator. I'm sorry if it did not do good job traslating it back. You have an alignment problem. This is very common for a newly lifted vehicle. Go get it aligned.

So... Any other Ideas?

I don't know what you just said but I aloso say its an alignment.

to solve your bickering, I checked all that this morning b4 I took it apart.

Your oil pan for you engine will be the one closer to the fron of the truck below where the engine is. The one further back under your tranny is for your tranny.

So I took out my thermostat this morning, put it in a pot of hot water with a thermometer touching the spring. it started to open @ 170 and reached full open @ 190. it has 76.5c stamped on it which is 169.7F Im still gonna replace it cause its out and its the original. But I'm wondering what the problem could be with my warm up. My fan clutch is fine, my warm up idle is set to 1300. The vacum system for my hot air pickup works fine and the door opens when its warming up. I have headers and sopposedly those reduce exhaust gas temp and in turn bring down engine temps but would it bring down the temps by that much!?? I also have an oil cooler with a thermostat to bypass it until the oil reaches 180f. I'm thinking of removing that tho and I know the thermo for the oil cooler works cause the lines to and form the cooler are cold and all other oil lines are warm.

In my limited understanding I would think it something to consider that tho the DE is rated for more torque you also have to reach a higer rpm to do so. and if your doing this for an ofroader you want the torqe @ the lower rpm range. At least thats how I see it.

Sounds like the OE 170 seems like the way to go. thanks guys gonna knock that one out this weekend.

All winter my trucks been running cold and sucking gass, I thought it was the new aluminum radiator I put in last summer. But now with the temps in the 50s and rising, I see it still wont warm up so I'm thinkin' my thermostat needs replaced. I checked out themostats today and found out 2 types are offered @ the Auto shop; 170- OE temperature 180- Alternate temp I was gonna buy the 180 to try and copensate for the Aluminum radiator. But I thought I'd ask here first; Is there any other reason I should chose one or the other? Winters here get below 0 and summers peak @ arround 90. Not the hottest or coldest of climates, just a wide spread.