beastpath
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Posts posted by beastpath
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I could almost cry!
I recieved my 2nd remanufactured engine on thursday from the freight company, measured the crank to make sure it was the right size, and took it home.
Got everything set up again, started pulling apart my old one and cleaning things, and transfering them over to the new one.
Boy oh boy was I excited, everything seemed to be coming together, and we got a lot done.
Today we went out to do more of the same, but after a while words of doom were spoken.
"Houston, we have a problem."
There is no bolt hole for the Knock Sensor on the new engine!!! And indeed no Knock sensor as I believed all reman engines came with.
On the original its in the valley at the back, as I'm sure most of you know.
My questions are: has anyone relocated the knock sensor, and if so where? and what are the shortcomings of relocation, if any?
Any help would be great, I really dont want to return another engine, especially after all the work thats already been done.
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IIRC, the only differences between the VG30i and VG30E headers are smog/EGR hookups. VG30i's have two hookups: the AIV system AND the EGR.
So theoretically I should be able to use the 86-89 on a 90-95? What would you do to block the AIV hookup? or would you need to?
If you look at the pictures of both of them the right hand side gasket does look flipped though.
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The DTE-464-2 will fit all vg30 pathfinders 87-95 auto and manual (reguardless what the notes say) and I belive It also fits all d21 hardbodies w/ vg30 as the engine/enginebay/ tranny layout(main obstacles) are basically the same.
Depending on how your engine sits (.25" left or right) on its mounts you may have to dent one of the pimaries (about .125" to clear your steering shaft)
DTE-464-2 is summits P/N for Thorley P/N THY-464-2 which is specifically for 90-95 Pathfinders.
The Autoanything.com P/N you linked us to is THY-464-1 which is specifically for 86-89 Pathfinders according to Thorleys instructions. In the pictures of the two you can see the very slight differences, primarily in length of the different parts, and where the gaskets are flipped on the right hand header(right hand in the picture).
I dont know what kind of effect the differences would have in fitting to the car in general, or sealing to the engine.
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I couldn't find the Thorley's on Summit...do you have a link?
Just put in P/N DTE-464-2 and it will come up.
The "Auto anything" link only listed pathfinders up to 89, or will it fit 91-95s too?
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Howdy!
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Woohooo!! Thanks people, just had someone check mine and its a double. Thats what I was thinking, but had to be sure.
Thanks again!! This site rocks.
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I need some info on VG30E crankshaft keyways.
Are they single or double? What does it matter if the pulley and timing sprocket slip over the same place? Does it depend on what year pathfinder you have??
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ok, so after a lot of research about it, I don't think I want to go for the VG33 conversion right now. In theory it sounds good, but I'm not familiar with VG33's, only have the VG30 accesories, and dont want to screw around with having things machined or replacing crankshafts etc. Dont really care about the power advantage, I've never had a problem getting anywhere or through everything with my pathy, and with headers, ignition system/wires/plugs upgrade, should get a moderate power boost. As long as my truck runs and is in good condition, i dont care much.
If anyone thinks I'm being stupid and am missing a big opportunity let me know, but you'd better have some good advice about the conversion, lol.
I will post pics of the two engine blocks together though Terrano NZ.
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So is this actually happening? Cos I already ordered mine from Summit, but if this will get them here faster and around the same price( 368, including shipping) I will cancel that order and get them from here.
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haha, i just read that thread before you posted this. I think I'm just going to exchange the blocks, for although I would love to put a VG33 in for some added power, i already have most of the bits for my VG30, and I'm broke and dont want to pay for the crank to be machined.
Or is it possible to just put the VG33 crank pulley on and leave everything else vg30?
Its remanufactured so i dont know if there would have been the alloy filter housing with it. And you are saying thats for the oil filter?? Then why is there a screw on location on the side.
I'm at work right now otherwise id post pics of what I mean.
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Have figured out through pictures from this website and measurements from others that the engine I in fact purchased is a VG33.
Before I exchange it for the VG30 I was curious how hard it would be to just use this block without removing the crank. From what I've read on other posts I wouldnt have to use the VG33 ecu, but I might have to use the pulleys from the newer engine. Would everything else fit on there? I know it should bolt to the transmission just fine.
Also would the headers I bought for the VG30 fit on the VG33?
Thanks
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Well pics would help, but the VG33 I'm trying to rebuild at the moment has a thicker crank, different oil pump, water pump and pulley's and so on. If you got the engine I'm thinking of then it has a small water pump and nearly everthing attatched to the front of the engine is different...Sorry...But pics will confirm that 
"putting everything else on should be easy." Never say that
water pump is the same, so are all the pulleys at the front, and the crank is even the same at the back. Its just the new oil pump and crank at the dampener that is different. Even the bolt that fits into the crank is the same, the dampener just wont fit over the larger size.
I've got some pictures and will try to upload them
Damn shop is closed right now so I cant call to verify what I bought either.
every time i think im going to get stuff done on the engine something happens. -
Ok, so some of you know I'm putting a remanufactured engine in my pathy. Well, I got the longblock yesterday, and today started to transplant pieces. Well, I have found that the crank on my old engine has a .985" diameter where it meets the dampener, and the one on the new engine is 1.260". Have any of you experienced this problem when you have replaced your engines?? Can I just get a replacement dampener?
Also I noticed the oil pump on my new engine is different than that of the old, in that the new one has tubes going off to the right as if you could connect to an oil cooler or something. Is this a function of newer/aftermarket oil pumps for our vehicles?
Everything else looks good though. If I can just get these issues figured out putting everything else on should be easy.
Thanks
James
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That looks sick! I like that cast iron look.
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haha, my refurb engine has the timing kit already so dont have to get a new one!
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I know my gf would love that color, lol.
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So I've decided to paint my new engine with Dupli-color engine enamel paint(after cleaning, scrubbing, and prepping of course).
Does any one have any suggestions on colours? I was thinking black valve cover gaskets with red bolts, and perhaps doing the block red(although idk bout this). But these are very over-used colours so any other ideas would be welcome.
Also I just wanted to make sure this wouldnt be detrimental to the engine at all heat wise. I've read some places that paint retains heat, making the engine run hotter, but i've also read that it does the opposite, dissipating and cooling. Are either of these true?
These were on Volvo, Ford and Chevy web-forums so the level of intelligence is a lot less than on NPORA
Any help would be much appreciated
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What is this "rust" stuff you speak of? (Says the man from Texas.) :tonguefinger:
Never heard of 'rust' in Arizona either. :-)
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Ok, so theres an offer on Craigslist for some used Warn Premium Hubs for $50. The guy was parting the car out or something, idk. Anyways, I was wondering if this is a good deal, or should I just wait to get new ones not knowing where these used ones have been or in what condition.
Thx.
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Im interested too!
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....good point. Def do not want to redo my timing belt etc. after only a couple of months.
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ITM a good brand? Parts Dinosaur has them for ~ $37. Im going to have to call the stealership for a nissan price.
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Anyone have a recomendation of water pump brands? Have found an Airtex for 14.99+9.99 s/h, but neither I or the mechanic whos helping me rebuild my engine have heard of the company.
Thx.
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Hi,
I'm James.
Have spoken to a few of you on here already, but just wanted to shout out properly.
My 91 Pathfinder SE is undergoing an engine swap at the moment(her second), and while that
is happening im upgrading a few things.
So far have ordered Thorley Headers, MSD Offroad ignition w/ Taylor 8mm Spark Wires, oil filter
relocation kit, and have put in a K&N air filter.
Planning on adding an electric fan, JGC coils, Rough Country UCAs(if i can get them separate from
the kit), Rancho 5112s, rocky-road.com diff cover, rocky-road.com wilderness roof-rack, some extra
lights on the top and rear, warn locking hubs, calmini steering upgrade, and a monroe OEM steering stabilizer. Also want some better tinting(this is Arizona after all), and a few upgrades for the interior(CUP HOLDERS!!!!).
.....when i have the cash that is.
Will post pics of the engine rebuid in a couple of days.
Knock sensor in valley
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Was wondering if that would work too.
But wouldn't a 91 ECU find a fault and turn the check engine light on?