BowTied

Id be interested in a group buy.

I have not done the swap, but I have a 99 Jimmy 4.3L 4x4. This is a great engine. What I would like to mention: The engine uses a fairly high pressure fuel system, higher than many according to one mechanic I talked to (~50psi range?). Make sure your fuel pump is up to it. The Jimmy fuel pump is a pricey little bugger too. You might want an afermarket pump. Some 4.3s have intake gaskets leaks, check this out before putting it in. a 98 4.3L likley used Dexcool coolant (reddish colour). DO NOT mix the old green stuff in with it unless the container says it is compatible. It will ruin the engine. I would recommend a coolant system flush after you get it together. The 4.3 is a 90 deg V6, it is wide. As noted routing wires etc could be fun. I would look to a dual electric fan set-up. The 4.3s have the centre spark plug located right behind the steering column from the factory, unscrupulous garages will "forget" to change that plug. Most garages just bend the heck outa the shaft for clearance. check your plugs to be sure they are easy enough to get out (not seized) before the swap. A lot of folks say not use Bosch plugs in a 4.3L. I recommend the OE delco plugs, can't go wrong there. They are a little pricey though. If you are using the OE wiring and computer, you will need 3 O2 sensors in the exhaust - likely easiest to use the Y pipe that came with the engine if it will fit. Hope that helps. I would agree that this would be hard to do in one weekend even if you had done it before. If you do tackle this project (I hope you do!!!) Please take pictures and post your progress.

Some of the really old chevy V6s were slow sure. The vortec V6 is prety nice though. My Jimmy is nice and torquey, even more so than my pathy in lower rpm range. The pathy has a higher HP rating and a slightly higher torque but it certainly comes in at a higher rpm. Don't get me wrong, the pathy is a great truck, but to anyone who still thinks Chevy V6s are anchors, maybe hasn't had a chance to drive a newer vortec V6. Don't the new pathys have V8s? I am not saying American cars are better or worse, but it sounds like you had some bad experiences er something. to original poster: I too thought it would be cool to get a 5 speed when I was shopping for a pathy. Coupla things got me into an automatic: Very hard to find a manual SE (I didn't want a Chilkoot personally), I have never seen an LE (which I wanted for the side impact airbags) with a manual trans, and a manual trans de-rates the towing capacity. Something to consider if you plan to take the family camping with a camper trailer or tow a boat etc.

Well, maybe it is a timing chain then, I dunno. SInce it changes with RPM (but being in gear vs. park makes no difference, right?) then is must be engine related, possibly transmission. I would first look to bearing like you have done, hopefully you were able to get at them all, water pump, alt, tensionser, A/C compressor etc. Only other things I can think of that changes with RPM is a loose ring gear or an issue with the torque convertor (I assumed it was an automatic?). But I would have thought you would hear that in the interior more since it is so close to the firewall... Have you ever had the transmission out? If it is a five speed and it is the pressure plate/throw out bearing, then pressing the clutch would make a difference. Pleae post back when you solve this one.

Could be valve train noise that reduces as oil warms up and is pumped up to the top of the engine? Does the noise have any relation to the A/C being on (maybe the compressor clutch)?

So, does it make the noise at idle? at cruise? under hard throttle? on deceleration? Is the noise the same speed or frequency all the time or does it change exactly with engine rpm? or with road speed?

Describe the sound to us please. Does it sound like a rattle, like someone jiggling a tin can of marbles, an intermitent vibration? On accel or decel or all the time?

Just as a follow-up, I have a few hundred kms on the clock since the work with no problems. I am wondering though if I should have done something with teh PCV while I was in there? How long do these last before maintenance in needed?

Good question!!! I wasn't prepared to find those little darlings when I added the threadlocker to my power valves (see post in this forum for How to with pics.) I'd like to know if the only the power valves are a problem or if it is both?

I thought the Chilkoot was an XE, just a package. I did not see any non-Chilkoot XEs advertised when I was shopping. I did see a handful of 5 speed rigs (only on Chilkoots), but they were not common. Also here there were mostly Chilkoots, a few LEs and very few SEs listed while I was looking. Thanks for posting those All Mode pics Trainman.

I guess it is different here in Ontario. Most SE models have the All Mode system. I shopped for a few months for our '02 LE. I did not pursue any chilkoots as I wanted fender flares which most don't have and I didn't care for the Chilkoot rims personally. Although I looked at some SEs for comparison, I really wanted an LE for leather seats (clean-up after kids) and the side impact airbags for family safety that are not available on the SEs far as I know. I personally did not see any R50s that were not ALL Mode systems when I shopping. As mentioned, North of the border the Chilkoot is a fancy name they gave to the base model which was previously called an XE. I think there is a variant in 2004 called Chilkoot Trail edition, but I don not know much about them. The All mode system we have works great! When road conditions are mixed with dry patches/ice/drifting snow, me (or my wife!) can just put the switch in AUTO and never worry about driving on dry pavement in 4X4. The electronic shift works quickly and each mode is indicated on the instrument panel when active. This system operates just like the manual 4x4 system on my '99 GMC Jimmy which also works very well. If I was planning any regular/serious off road though, I'd likley choose a floor lever system as noted. Hope that helps. EDIT For the power valve screw issue, see my thread in this forum posted a couple weeks back - I have a "how to" post with pics on how to do this.

Nope! No distributor, no wires. Nice and simple eh? The plugs are in the valve covers, just like the old Hemi engines of the 60s. The difference though is that there is no distributor/plug wire just a small coil on top of each plug. You cannot see the plug, only the top of the coil, secured by one bolt as mentioned. Look at the very last pictures in my thread in this forum on thread locking power valve screws - I have a pic of the coil removed and a pic of the top of the plug down inside the valve cover. Hope that helps. R

Ok, I got my gaskets earlier than expected!! I did the whole job yesterday, my results with pics are here: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0#entry277573 Anyone else who has done this job and would like to add to my post, that would be cool with me. R

Thanks Gianni. ... But, then I notice that there are whole bunch more screws inside the intake manifold still on the bloody engine! I had done the power valves, but the valves underneath those are the swirl valves. ugh. I did not have the gaskets to remove the manifold and there was no way you could or would want to do the screws with it on the engine. Plus you'd have to mess with fuel lines. So, I did something that may have no effect at all, but thought it was worth a shot: I got an old toothbrush and sprayed it with carb cleaner liberally. My buddy Steve held the valves open with a soft handle of a hammer and I brushed the back side of the screws with carb cleaner and dried them with compressed air. I then put some blue loctite on the tip of a small clean flat blade screw driver and carefully dabbed it on the backside of the screws. Maybe that will all wash off, likley. but it is better than nothing in my mind. Oh - one other thing, changing plugs is easy when you are this far apart, I recommend it! Just remove the coil, one bolt, and then you have access to the plug. It is waaaay down inside the valve cover. The book calls for a .043" gap. My factory plugs measured .044 after ~69k miles, so I gapped the new ones to .042 and stuck 'em in - they should be good for another 69k I hope. Changing the plugs can be done another time, but you will be moving most of the same hoses and brackets and you will have to remove the throttle body to get to one of them, I think it is #4. Hope y'all found this thread useful. Ron

I did not remove the vacuum actuator itself as shown in this picture. The hose system underneath at the back disconnected earlier (shown now to help understand where to disconnect in the earlier step). Ok, so now everything is apart. I clean the power valve area with some carb cleaner and blow it off with compressed air. Then I remove ONE screw (to make life easy for lining up things up for assembly) and drop it in some carb cleaner and liberally blow some carb cleaner in the threads of teh mounting shaft. Looking at the screw, it has some gunk in the threads. I need an easy way to remove the crud from these fine threads, so I got a small wire brush from a dremel rotary tool set and put it in my drill, in the vice. The screws have a round head and holding just the head with pliers is likely to launch them across the room, so put pliers on them top and bottom of the screw, seemed to work well enough. I then blow out the threaded hole with compressed air, and ad a drop of loc-tite 242 (blue removalbe for 1/4" and larger, not so easy to remove on smaller screws, may require heat!) and reassemble. Repeat 11 more times. Use compressed air to blow any crud out of the plenum runners. Clean all the gasket mounting surfaces with a clean rag and carb cleaner or similar. Installation is reverse of assembly.... BUT........

Hi all: I have take the engine apart on my pathy to add the loctite to the power valve screws to avoid them getting sucked into the engine. A HUGE thank-you to my buddy Steve - without his experience from working on his Maxima and his help, I'd likely still have my finger stuck in a swirl valve.... A BIG - thank-you to all who posted about this issue to alert those of us not in the know.... Note to Mods: I /IMG tagged my pics from photobucket. If someone wants to upload and modify my post for posterity, cool. Can't guarantee my photobucket account forever of course... Details '02 Pathy LE 111,000km (~69,000 miles) Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) These cost me approx $72 CAN as the Nissan dealer cut me some slack on the tax. The last gasket is the most expensive, almost $50. If you were going to leave the lower intake plenum on the engine to do this job, you would not need this gasket. I personally think it worth while to remove the lower plenum, makes life easier, only 4 screws hold it on, no dropped screws inside the engine.. up to you though. Some people think that these gaskets can be re-used and you do not need new ones at all - probably true, but with my luck, I decided not to do it twice for $70 and got new ones. The following is my rough account of how I did the job, not every step is in here, but should give an overview. If you are a real noob to auto mechanics, this may be more involved than you want to try. Much harder than an oil change. Not nearly as hard as changing a transmission or even a clutch though. If an oil change is a 1 out of 10, and an engine rebuild is a 10 out of 10, this job is a 4 in my opinion. Quick Notes: Left and Right - refer to the side of the vehicle, so when I say left, I mean from the driver's perspective - just to be clear. I did not cut any factory tie straps!! They unclip from underneath if you squeeze the tabs together and then you can pop them back in later. Disconnect battery negative cable!!! This protects electronics. Remove plastic engine cover (2 nuts and a screw). Look in awe at all the bloody wires and hoses. Remove the *mounting bracket* for the accelerator cable and what I guess is the cable from the cruise to that go to the throttle body. I did not remove the the lock nuts at the cable end, just the mounting bracket (2 screws). Unclip the the cables from the plastic clips at the front of the engine. There should now be enough slack in the cable to move them toward the throttle body - the cable ends slide to the side out of the half round throttle body mounting points. Then flip the cable assy upside down and backward toward the battery - DO NOT kink these! Remove the brake vacuum line from the rear centre of the upper intake plenum. Remove the hose leading away from the evap valve on the upper intake plenum near the throttle body. Then remove the air intake hose. There is one mounting screw on the resonator box down low (in the following pic, the mounting point is visible just below and to the side of the master cylinder) to remove, plus 2 band clamps and a couple of hoses. This thing will be hard to get out, you will need to remove the hose from the throttle body end first and the twist and contort it out - watch the plastic box underneath doesn't get hung up stuff (it will). I did not remove the airbox. This would make life easier I bet, but I felt I could get by without the extra step. Then remove the hoses around the power valve vacuum actuator at the front left of the upper intake plenum. There are two brackets on the right side, rear of the upper intake, that are bolted to the lower intake (one has the mounting screw for the plastic cover). That one should be loosened and pulled back. They both need to come loose, so might as well do em both now. Unclip the two tie straps for the evap control valve @ back of throttle body. Disconnect two connectors at throttle body (throttle position switch and idle air control valve, brown is on top, but I think there is only one way to reconnect). I did not disconnect the coolant lines to the throttle body. I removed the 4 mounting bolts (hex key on a socket extension works best). and used some wire tied it off out of the way to the dip stick. Using the reverse of the torque tightening sequence from your manual, remove the 13 fasteners from the upper intake plenum, and them remove it. Carefull, it could get hung up on stuff. Put the bolts in a card a number them as they are different lengths and need to go back in the same spot! There are only 4 fasteners holding the lower intake in place - or so it would seem! There is secretly a hidden bracket on the right side back, between the firewall and the lower plenum. The right most bolt will require a short 12mm wrench to get at it. This was the hardest fastener to deal with. Then the the 4 main fastners can be removed in reverse tightening sequence order. Will continue in a reply post.....

It was a Parts Source, which is related to Canadian Tire stores. Thanks Gianni, I will try that. If they do have a listing for they will not be able to order it in time for tomorrow though. Can you believe they had no listing in their system for spark plugs? I got NGK platinums from NAPA at least.

My dealer got me the gaskets a lot faster than expected. I want to attempt the repair tomorrow. My local parts place says the Haynes doesn't make a manual for the pathfinder If anyone can scan the useful pages and send them to me, I'd appreicate it!! my email is ss396nospam@sympatico.ca (remove the 'no spam' from my address). Thanks! Ron

New pathy owner here.... London ON 02 LE

The first manual shift 4x4 I owned, I shifted into the Tcase into N and then waited and then tried to shift again and the grinding really scared me, I thought I broke something!! Hope all is well now...

'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the garage, There wasn't a trace of a Ford or even a Dodge. The presents were wrapped and the lights were all lit, So I figured I'd mess with the Pathy for a bit. I popped the release and I lifted the hood, When a deep voice behind me said "Looks pretty good!" Well, as you can imagine, I turned mighty quick, And there, by the workbench, stood good Ol' Saint Nick! We stood there a bit, not too sure what to say, Then he said "don't suppose that you'd trade for my sleigh? I said "no way, Santa" and started to grin, "But if you've got the time we could go for a spin!" His round little mouth, all tied up like a bow, Turned into a smile and he said "Hey! Ya, let's go!!" So as not to disturb all the neighbours' retreat, We pushed the truck quietly into the street. Then, taking our places to drift down the hill, I turned on the key and I let the clutch spill. The sound that erupted took him by surprise, But he liked it a lot, by the look in his eyes. With mudders a'wailing and headers aglow, We headed on out where the 4x4s go. And Santa's grin widened, approaching his ears, With every shift up as I went through the gears. Then he yelled "can't recall when I've felt so alive!" So I backed off the gas and said "You wanna drive?" Ol' Santa was stunned when I gave him the keys, When he walked past the headlights he shook at the knees! Then the engine revved with pure exhaust sound! Santa let out the clutch and the tires shook the ground! Powering through the mud –a shift into second, again into third! I sat there just watching at loss for a word. Then I heard him exclaim as the trail turned from sight, "Merry Christmas to all, it's a hell of a night!!!"

I see one recommendation for NGK Iridium. I was thining of using the NGK platninums - but what number to use? Is the "G-power" the right ones to use in my 3.5L?? TIA.

Sorry for the newbie question, but do any 02 pathies have the option for remote operation of the rear hatch? I managed to program a maxima remote - the trunk button makes a click noise under the dash but does nothing else.

Great post!!