BowTied

What is the trouble with hooked straps (not challenging you, just learning)? Thanks.

That is why I gave her a disclaimer

Good point - but still the most sturdy thing on the car to extract with!

I pulled a jetta out of the heavy shyte the plough had put at the side of the road. I warned her (in front of a cop that eventually showed up) that I was happy to help, but I would not be responsible for any damage. I pulled her out by hooking on the tow hook at the rear - once moving, the front bumper cover caught the hard packed snow and ripped it right off. Typical Jetta, they are only held on with like 4 plastic rivits...

I don't know about pathys, but in other vehicles I have had the hazard relay was a different one than for the blinkers, yet they had the same connections so you could swap them temporarily to see if it is the relay that is burned out. I agree this is weird though.

Test the new battery to be sure it wasn't on the shelf for 3 years and is dead. Also, are you sure you have the correct battery? cr2025 3V Failing that, new remotes are cheap on ebay for most models. EDIT - I forget that the pre 02s have a different remote, so that battery number may not be right for you.

Always fun to upgrade!!!

Very interesting. My 02 allmode LE has LSD which supports your theory. FWIW, towing a pop-up tent trailer with my VQ (not too heavy, 2-2500lbs?) was a breeze, barely knew it was there. Mind you I never use OD when towing anything of consequence.

I live in London and have a scanner, if that is near you. If you decide to buy a scanner, check princess auto for cheap ones locally.

Automatics with 4.6s = that must be a pre 2001? I understand my '02 auto to have 4.363:1 gears.

Just guess, but I bet it is the same reason all those great MPG diesels in Europe don't come here - emissions. I dunno about Japan, but Europe measures differently or not at all, I think it is NOx, and Canada/US does.

According to this, the fuel economy is essentially the same? http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/compx2008f....nField=Findacar http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/compx2008f....nField=Findacar There is a factor of gearing as mentioned, but also the factor of what grade of fuel used and what elevation the owner lives at, and if it is being measured in the winter vs. summer. But even at 1 or 2 MPG better, in a year/12k miles of driving, the dollar value of the fuel purchased is not monumental. Outside of the power valve screws, (01Silvapathy - see my write-up and git er done!!!!) I like the VQ. I wish the OD gear was a little deeper... it would be killer with a 5 speed manual or maybe the 5 speed auto from the next gen. The problem I have with the 5 speed manual is that it derates the towing capacity. I will not likley tow near the limit anyway, but still it bugs me for some reason. No VG experience to comment on though, sorry.

Please post back with your findings or any pictures... I would be greatful!!

Assuming we are talking about an unmodified engine and cooling system in a proper state repair and adequate design capacity to cool the engine, we may have to respectfully disagree here. Water, coolant, or a mix thereof in the engine water jackets will all be heated during engine operation. While the three fluids may have slightly different thermal properties, I contend that the differences for the practical purpose at hand (hot air out of the heater core) is not significantly different. Where you may be looking at the properties of these fluids and seeing a difference is in lowered freezing and elevated boiling points. Assuming we are not talking about a vehicle in extremely cold climates where the heat dissipation through the engine block exceeds the rate of heat output to the fluid in the water jackets of the engine (and that is pretty darn cold!), the temperature of the fluid will continue to rise as the engine operates regardless of how “thermal efficient” it is (the time it takes to heat to a certain point may be slightly different, sure). Once the engine has heated the fluid to the temperature at which the stats open, ie 180F, the fluid moves to the radiator where it is cooled and then returns to the engine. This cycle continues and the stat regulates the temperature of the fluid at the stat’s rating within the manufacturing tolerances of the stat. So, sure, it may take more or less time to obtain heat depending on the fluid, but the heat will come if everything is functioning correctly. EDIT In re-reading your post, I think you may be suggesting that the addition of the heater core fan to the cooling system may be removing too much heat from the system causing the thermostat to close. If this happened, then there would still be heat coming out of the heater core, but the heat would cycle with the engine temperature. The jiggle valve is used to release trapped air and shouldn't impact the coolant temperature or stat operation. The amount of fluid bypass is negligible unless the capacity of the system is right on the edge of acceptable (ie poor maintenance or poor design).

Do you have access to a welder? thinking weld a nut to what is left...

I don't know maximas, but this is often the sign of a stuck thermostat as noted. This is especially likely if the cooling system is overdue for maintenace and/or the thermostat was a cheap crappy one. The ratio of coolant to water, even straight coolant or straight water would not affect the air temperature, the thermostat will still operate the same and control the same temperature. This would affect the freeze or boiling temperature though of the coolant. A control valve on the heater core hoses or a HVAC control system is a possibility.

Welcome to NPORA. I have the same problem but have yet to have it looked at. I however have not had a CEL yet. Can you (or anyone) explain where this valve is and how it works in detail? How do I check the smaller breather, plunge it with a brass rod or something?

NO! no, not that! I want to change how I store my nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers, and misc fasteners etc. Right now I have a varied assortment of those storage bin units that have a couple dozen little plastic drawers; you know, the ones all the hardware stores have. The little plastic drawers have little plastic dividers and so forth. These seem ok for 1/4" fasteners and smaller, but I like to have a variety of new fasteners on hand from machine screws through 1/2", and having a few lengths of 1/2" bolts don't work to well in these little plastic drawers. I can't stand working on my daily driver, lawn mower, snow blower etc. and re-using old beat up rusty hardware, so I keep a bunch of new ones on hand and I need a better storage system so I am not hunting for them, maybe increase my storage capacity a little. I looked at some steel bins, but wow these get pricey (I think they were meant for commercial use) and didn't want to spend several hundred $ on just the bins. What do you guys have for this?? Pics would be great!! How do you organize your new (and still good used) spare fasteners??? TIA

With such a build up of gunk and goo and dirt and who knows what (he said it was thick in there), it would be very hard to not knock some down in the engine. Additionally, there is very likely gunk and goo buildup in the engine in places no readily visible from just removing the valve covers, such as the intake valley. So if this stuff get kocked down, or by using a flushing agent flushed into oil galleries, push rods, lifters etc. where they lodge in place, you can starve a portion of the engine of oil.

Cool! Please post a pic!

Be careful using teflon tape - not only does it need to be wound onto the threads a certain way, a small piece of it floating around in your oil system is not good. For the products I work on, I forbid teflon tape near any hydraulic system. Coolant system, no problem. Sometimes flushing a dirty engine like that can wreak havoc... if you remove the gunk you found under the valve cover be ultra sure you don't knock any crud (chunks, particles) into the oil system. Good luck!

Agreed on the copper line. It is an upgrade cost that might be worth while if you already had the mechanical set-up. I would suggest having a copper line "coil", like you see on some brake lines, between the engine and the firewall so that the movement of the engine doesn't stress the line. Good point on the teflon pipe dope for the threaded connections.

Will you replace them yourself? Might be worth a call the KYB and see if there is a recall on those parts or if there is some warranty etc...

If you are installing an aftermarket guage set, get the electric gauge rather than the mechanical guage so you don't have to run a plastic oil line under the hood, through the fire wall and into the cabin. This avoids an engine fire or a shoe full of oil when the line breaks, comes undone, etc. Plus, the electrical wires are easier to route as they are smaller and bend easier. Be sure to use a grommet at the firewall so the metal edges dont abraid the wires. A dab of RTV would be good to seal it with when everything checks out (Do not use household caulking that smells like vinegar, these are acetic acid based and will cause the metal to rust). Also route the wires well away from heat sources like exhaust manifolds - plastic tire straps are your friend! Ensure you are using a good ground point for the gauge. For both the gauge and the gauge light, hook the power to a switched (ignition) power source, not a continuous (battery) power source (DO NOT get power from the cigarette lighter). Ideally, the gauge light wire will hook into the dash light system so the gauge light only comes on with the dash lights (and would dim with them too). If you plan to add any other gauges, now is the time so you route other wires at the same time and repeat less work. HTH.

That's a good tip right there.